Hard shifting into gear

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Old Jul 1, 2011 | 11:39 PM
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Hard shifting into gear

Hey all, i recently noticed that my 2004 M/T TSX (82k miles) is have trouble shifting into gear from a stop. With the clutch pedal all the way depressed, i have to really force it into first and when i start pushing the shifter into first i can feel the car jerk forward very slightly. And when i shift into any gear then reverse it always grinds. Just holding the clutch pedal down and hitting the shift gate without actually going all the way in i can hear the synchros, sort of like a "cachunk" noise. I changed the transmission oil with OEM Honda MTF last week and its still like this. Any suggestions? I do have the clutch creak noise, lubed up the linkages last week and it just made the clutch pedal much lighter thats all.
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Old Jul 2, 2011 | 12:13 AM
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By the way, clutch fluid reservoir level is fine.
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Old Jul 2, 2011 | 11:21 AM
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Anyone?
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Old Jul 2, 2011 | 02:11 PM
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From a clutch service diagnosis site:

"If the clutch does not release completely when the clutch pedal is fully depressed, the disc will continue to turn the input shaft. This may prevent the driver from shifting the transmission from neutral into gear, cause grinding when the gears are changed, or cause the engine to stall when coming to a stop.

A clutch that won't release may have a misadjusted linkage, a broken or stretched release cable, a leaky or defective slave or master clutch cylinder, air in the hydraulic line or cylinders, corroded, damaged or improperly lubricated input shaft splines, a worn pilot bearing/bushing, a worn bearing retainer, bent or worn release fork or pivot ball, bent clutch drive straps, bent or distorted clutch disc, a clutch disc that was installed backwards, or mismatched clutch components (if the clutch was just replaced).

Other things that can cause the clutch to drag or not release include heavy gear oil in the transmission that's too thick for cold weather, defective or worn clutch pedal bushings or brackets, or flexing in the firewall or any release component attachment point."

It all points to a throw-out bearing, linkage, or cylinder issue. Fluid level doesn't matter if the fluid isn't being used correctly by the system due to an internal leak.
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Old Jul 2, 2011 | 03:20 PM
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maybe a bent fork. see if a buddy can pry the fork a little more when you push the clutch and pop into gear. You'll see in the front of the tranny. You might need a new fokr. in that case new clutch, rear main seal, pressure plate, flywheel, etc
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Old Jul 2, 2011 | 05:36 PM
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Wait a new clutch includes the shift fork? I should add that this is only when the car is still and not moving. I had my friend shift the gears with the engine off while i observed the shift fork, it looked slightly loose... i'm not even sure how much play there is supposed to be.
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Old Jul 3, 2011 | 06:51 PM
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Okay so i just tried adjusting that pedal position bolt but it didn't change anything the car behaved the same after screwing it farther in and out. I also checked the pedal bracket and it was not damaged in anyway that i could see.

Its weird that these symptoms only occur when the car is not moving. As the car rolls as slowly as even 1mph the car can shift in and out perfectly smooth. As i put it into any gear i hear the syncros working very hard (A distinctive thud sound), sort of like when you try to put it in 1st gear at 5mph+. I don't think its the hydraulic system since the fluid level in the clutch system reservoir is fine. Although i did notice the pedal got very soft after i lubed up the master cylinder with white lithium grease, but the problem was there even before i lubed anything and changed the transmission oil (This problem was why i changed the transmission oil, thinking the old oil was just gunked up)

This leaves a few possibilities. (1) The pressure plate / diaphragm spring are worn out and won't disengage fully. (2) The shift linkages are misadjusted. Or any of the possibilities listed above...

What do you all think? What parts do the OEM clutch kit come with? Clutch assembly, shift fork, flywheel, Master and slave cylinders?
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Old Jul 3, 2011 | 07:15 PM
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I was just reading another post for a similar problem on some Honda S2000 forum and this one fellow had the same problem as i did. He said when the dealer changed out the clutch, the friction disk splines were rusted and shaft were not properly lubed. When he depressed the clutch pedal, the spring would disengage but the friction disc stayed on the flywheel. Thus when putting the car into first gear the syncros have to work to break off the friction disc from the flywheel. After it breaks off and keeping the clutch pedal depressed he could (and so can i) shift into any gear perfectly fine.
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Old Jul 4, 2011 | 08:23 AM
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I had an AEM clutch in my TSX and one of the teeth that separates the pressure plate springs broke off an lodged in being it so that when I depressed the clutch pedal, the pressure wouldn't release making shifts nearly impossible; I had similar symptoms as you. Either way, you are in the market for a new clutch kit. I also bought a new shift fork thinking this higher pressure system might have bent the fork, but it didn't. Get a clutch kit since you have 82k.
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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 10:40 AM
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Thanks for the info, yea my car is in the shop right now and my mechanic says it is the clutch. He's taking it apart today to see if it is. I told him it could be the master/slave cylinders failing since the symptoms are there, and my friend who's done quite a bit of mechanical work on cars agrees, as do some forum members. But my mechanic insists its the clutch so we will see.
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Old Jul 12, 2011 | 08:18 PM
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Okay here's the update folks, i got my car back from the mechanic today. New clutch assembly, fluid replaced, and i think (haven't double checked yet) he replaced the slave cylinder. The car drives beautifully without a hesitation now. Here's the thing though, i had a friend look at my old clutch friction disc and he said it was still good. And now that i think back on it... there was some black fluid coming out of the slave cylinder boot when i removed the rubber boot to grease it up. So here's my theory, the slave cylinder was leaking and it didn't get enough pressure to fully release the clutch therefore it could've been "band aided" with a clutch pedal adjustment or replacing the slave cylinder... instead of changing out the clutch. I ALSO THINK, that the leaking fluid is also the cause of the slave cylinder creak noise that a lot of people have. I believe its an internal leak as my clutch fluid reservoir stayed at the same level. And there you have it.
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