Is there anyway I would be able to turn off the check engine light without having to take the car in to a dealer or repair shop. I tightened the gas cap to make sure that wasn't the problem (and I know it may take up to 3 days for the problem to cure itself). I also heard if I disconnect the battery that would reset the ECU, thus getting rid of the check engine light (but i have to make sure I have the radio code so the radio will work after). Does anyone out there have any suggestions?

 

You need to determine what causes the CEL first before resetting it, and CEL doesn't always mean the gas cap is loose. If there is an Autozone auto parts store near where you live, you can borrow a scan tool to check and reset the code.

 

Im imagining that the problem can't be that serious since the car has only 4500 miles on it. I just bought the car in October. In the morning I will drive to the Autozone and ask them if I can borrow a code reader to see what the problem is. Any more suggestions or comments out there?

 

Why wouldn't you get it checked at the dealership? It won't cost you a penny.

 

Most parts stores have a code scanner to check codes, they do this in hopes of selling you what ever is wrong. They do it at no charge and should take less then 5 minutes if you don't want to go back to the dealership. If its an EVAP code of some sort, its probably gas cap related, but of 1700 or so possible codes out there, only 20 or so are EVAP. If its a sensor of some sort, have the light reset and see if it comes back on, a lot of times on new cars a small glitch in the system will trigger the MIL to come on if certain conditions are met for even a very short period of time. The only time a MIL is a big problem is when its flashing, then something is REALLY wrong.

 

I disconnected the battery this morning, let the car sit for a few min, reconnectd the battery, entered the radio code, started the car, and the check engine light turned off. So far so good.

 

If the CEL doesn't come back then it was the gas cap. If it does, there is something more serious and you need to take it to the dealer. Its under warranty so just take it there and make them fix whatever is wrong.

 

That's just dumb. Your code is still stored in the computer. It might come back and haunt you when you do smog tests.

Doing that is just like turning up the volume when you hear a weird sound so you don't hear it anymore.

Just get it checked at the dealership. It's free anyways.

 

If it is a sensor you can do a lot of damage by ignoring it. If an O2 sensor is at fault it can cause the other sensor to go and if driven long enough with those conditions can ruin the cat. So many parts will "snowball" if ignored, its plain foolish when you can get it checked so many places for free.

Sure it could just be an EVAP code, but there are so many other things it could be...

 

can a sound system mess up your alternator?

 

Swept that problem right under the rug...Stupid...