warranty covers this ?

 

Never trust the dealer to do it the right way when most folks wouldn't notice a short cut.

Since the common causes seem to be eliminated, it must be a quality thing. I guess we've already done the poll thing. I wonder if Honda/Acura is aware that their shortcomings are a topic of online discussion.

 

When the rotos is bad, do you only feel the vibration when braking at high speeds? Or at any speed?

I can feel some vibration in my car when slowing down from say 90 to 50, but it's not like I'm about to lose control of the car. Mine has almost 21k.

 

When slowing down from a slower speed all I feel is a slight (pulsating) vibartion and the brakes just have a poor feel in general. The first time I had this problem and braked from 140KM it was bad, the sterring wheel went from left to right very quickly. This second time the vibration was there but not nearly as bad. When I went to the dealer on the weekend I didn't mention that I think they're warped all I asked was to have them looked at. They came back with new rotors.

 

I had the same problem with the armreset. If you look, you'll see that I created a thread here about it. I was faced with taking it into the dealer or just trying to fix it myself. Luckily I was able to fix it myself.

It's a pretty easy thing to do. The first thing I did was take two screws out that are visible when the compartment is fully opened, holding the hinge into the car. Once you do that, the whole cover/compartment comes off. Then there's another two screws holding the top tray to the hinge, take those out. Then another two holding the top piece to the hinge, take those out.

I was then left with just the hinge. It's one hinge-contraption for both trays. Using two pliers I opened and shut the thing about a bunch of times to sort of work it in. I then put some grease (Miniature Aircraft tail rotor case grease from my r/c helicopter days, though any thick synthetic grease should work well) all over every single friction area I could find. I then worked it open and shut a bunch of times again with the pliers. Then wiped all the excess grease off. Due to the nature of the assembly/disassembly, the grease never gets near anything you'd ever actually see or touch in the armrest.

The problem completely went away and hasn't come back since. The whole procedure took maybe an hour, most of which was putting screws in and out.

 

Photo's irq?

 

Sorry, I didn't take any pictures. It's extremely easy though. I mean you just look at the thing and you can see where the screws go. It's nothing like taking the center console apart or anything like that. Everything you have to do is very obvious.

 

Okay, just wondering. I wanted to peak now instead of waiting for daylight. Thanks anyway!

 

I don't know domn, I have but very slight vibration with my brakes, although I admit I am not the one who wears them out the most either.

I have to replace my AC compressor, and despite the high mileage, I'm having a shot at trying to get Acura to replace it on a "good will warranty". I evaluate my chances at 80%. Probably if you're in good terms with your dealer you can get good post-warranty support, given that you can provide good arguments that would convince Acura to grant you good will warranty. Ie, on-schedule maintenance at dealership.

 

hey domn for the armrest... same thing was happening to me too. I told my dealer and he told me he would take a look... what they did to "fix" it was spray some wd-40. now the thing flies open leaving the 2nd part where its at.

I dunno how i really felt about this, cus it still dosent really do what it should do... but its been about a couple months now, and it works pretty well. hope this helps some..

 

My dealership chagned whole Armrest compartment for me, but the problem is...the leather on top of the Armrest won't match with other leather materials in TSX. Looks so DULL!!!!

 

Update: I didn't have a chance to go back to the dealer yet since this thread but I fixed the problem myself. I moved the bracket left to right by force (not too much force) and it seems to be problem free now for several weeks.

 

I journeyed back in the Wayback Machine to find help dismantling the armrest (replacing a broken LOCK, TRAY), and took some pics to help illustrate this thread for future readers.



Here's a pic of the hinge from top and bottom. It's a rather sophisticated piece, I would use white grease, like that used for seat tracks, door hinges, etc, to loosen it up (if it's hard to open). To remove, I would remove the steel screws that secure the hinge to the console (there's a metal support underneath the plastic), then take the armrest inside. The hinge is fastened to the armrest and tray via plastic, self-tapping screws. Take care with these, neither the screws or the plastic they fix to will withstand excessive force or abuse.

Separating the ARMREST and BASE is a simple matter of jamming a wide trim removal tool between the armrest and base from the front opening, to let the armrest slide over two stop tabs. Some recommend screwdrivers wrapped with tape, I think that might damage the plastic stops on the base or the tabs on the sliding armrest. If you don't have a trim removal tool set, invest in one ... they are the bestest way to dismantle things like this.



Detailed pic of the two stops:



The piece that controls (if you can say that) the resistance of the armrest's extension is a flange/spring clipped to the BASE, ARMREST. It's a tight fit, but I suppose one could slide it out, open it up a wee bit with a vise or something, then put it back together. The 2004 armrest might be made a bit differently if the armrest slide easily on new vehicles.