Sick-B0y

Hey All,

My 05 TSX is throwing a P0135 CEL which is referring to the O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction. I was wondering if anyone can point to a DIY to replace the front primary O2 sensor or if anyone can write the steps to identify the sensor and replace it.

Thanks

PACman

1 - Raise car on jacks
2 - Locate the primary O2 sensor which is located before the Cat on the J pipe (36531-RBB-003 SENSOR, AIR FUEL RATIO 2005 TSX $212.23). It has 4 wires connected to it; these wires are shrouded by a blue plastic casing. I used a Monkey wrench to carefully and slowly loosen the sensor from the bung. As this connection can be hard to unscrew, you can spray a bit of penetrating fluid (WD-40) and wait, then loosen it.
3 - Follow the wires up from under the engine bay and you'll come to where it's connected; pretty much in the engine bay itself. I had a better time accessing the connection from a top the engine bay.
4 - With the new replacement O2 sensor (OEM is best...$213), place anti-seize jelly on the strips and place it into the bung. Gently hand tighten. I don't know tq. figure.
5 - Connect sensor at it's opposite end.
6 - Reset CEL and you're done.

Took me about 30-45mins since it was my first time doing this.

curls

Regarding the bolded text: You should normally hand-tighten, then give about 1/2 to 2/3 of a turn from there (with appropriate wrench or O2 sensor socket) to seat the crush-washer that is on the new sensor. For an old sensor (reinstalling an old sensor), it's about 1/6 to 1/4 turn past hand-tight.

Don't get anti-seize on the sensor "bulb". Also, 99% of new sensors come with anti-seize (grey/silver paint-like stuff) on the threads, so there's no need to add more. My OEM replacement secondary sensor had this, as did a universal secondary sensor for my wife's Mazda.

carmagnut

Piggy back question: Is there a "tool" to check if the actual sensor is still functioning properly?

carbonatd

Carmagnut, an ohm meter will tell you if it's working or not. I believe if there's no resistance, the unit is dead.

gdcwatt

$212.23US! If pricing for that sensor is the same as OEM brakes then it's about $400Cdn! Plus tax, plus installation.

Is there an easier and cheaper way? Can you just clean the sensor, ideally while still in the car? I used to use half a can of Canadian Tire's Motomaster Choke and Throttle Body cleaner every six months on a high mileage Civic, during that car's 7-12th years, whenever I got the O2 sensor cel, or its engine started to stumble. It looks like that product has been renamed Tune-up-in-a-can, but there must be alternates, too. It says, "Oxygen sensor and catalytic converter safe," on the can.

curls

There are lots of universal options out there if you don't want to pay for the direct-fit versions. Bosch makes excellent sensors, as does SNG (Have used both myself and both worked just fine). Universal means you just have to splice the 4 wires -- Bosch includes really nice quick-connect crimps with theirs. SNG has crimp-connectors that require basic electrical crimpers.
I suspect you can get a universal, here in Canada, for under $100. The direct-fit Bosch version at autopartsway.ca is $256: http://www.autopartsway.ca/autoparts...0666~240666~22

There is ONE left at Rockauto.com for $63.79 - direct fit AC Delco.
ACDELCO Part # 2132856 {#19107200} 4 WIRE, AIR FUEL RATIO
SENSOR,HTD OXY(POSN 1) IN EXH MANIFOLD/CROSSOVER

Regular price is $119.79 on that one (wholesaler closeout = big savings). They ship to Canada and are EXCELLENT to deal with.

npolite

Do you know when they added this? I changed an O2 sensor a few years ago on my mothers 99 Accord and has to put it on. As long as you put a very THIN coat of anti-seize you should be ok.

curls

Well I put an OEM Honda/Acura one in my TSX back in 2006... it had the anti-seize. Also the Bosch one in a friends' car had it, and an SNG from a few years ago on my wife's car had it.

I know NGK has been plating their spark plug threads with an anti-seize sacrificial metallic plating that is only effective once, but it's very effective! No need for anti-seize on those! Not sure for how long, but it's been a while like that. I'm sure some O2 sensor companies must be following suit.

vthree

iTrader: (1)

ugh this sensor is sooo expensive! but its the only o2 sensor I have not replaced.

recently i keep getting a P1157 from time to time. and then VSA lights go off as well.

i don't reset it though, literally just keep driving -- my car doesn't stumble or lag.
after driving for a while maybe a few days -- the lights go away.... and then they might come back maybe even weeks later.

i work at home, so I don't really have to drive all that much.

you guys think i should just go ahead and order another primary o2 sensor?

im sitting at like 148k miles too. the other codes i'm getting are p0340 and p0341

DuckDodgers

P0340 - Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor A No Signal

P0341 - Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor and Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor Incorrect Phase Detected

P1157 - Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Sensor 1) AFS Line High Voltage

Couple of different issues here. The p1157 is most likely a bad A/F Sensor 1, so it wouldn't hurt to change it, especially at your mileage.

On the 340/341, I can't help but think a bad CMP Sensor A might not be the root cause of the 340 and result in the additional throwing of a 341. On the otherhand, the VTC Oil Control Solonoid is a known issue and can cause the 341 code too, even if you are just a little low on oil.

Miamicarfan

When the car throws any of these codes, does any light on the dashboard light up alerting to driver to check for codes? Or can it throw these codes without any indication on the dashboard?

StealthTSX

Yes, the CEL (check engine light) will go on in the dash cluster. It is sometimes also called the MIL (malfunction indicator light).
This info is in your owner's manual.

The purpose of the CEL is NOT to check your engine!
The purpose of the CEL is to tell the driver that the ECU has detected or logged an error and to connect an OBDII code reader to read the ECU and to see exactly what the error is.

You have no way of knowing how serious the problem is until your determine what the error code(s) are.

EVERYONE should own a basic OBDII code reader. They are cheap and will work on all 1996 and newer vehicles.
IMO, an OBDII code reader is a critical tool in car ownership.

DuckDodgers

If you don't own a reader, major auto parts chains like Autozone have readers and will check your car for codes for free.

***WARNING*** The code explaination the chain gives you is NOT necessarily the correct code explaination from Honda/Acura. The chain will tell you the generic explaination of the code, you need a Honda/Acura Service Manual to find the exact code explaination and the diagnostic process for that code.

Miamicarfan

Where exactly do you connect this code reader? Is it done while sitting inside the car, or is it done while outside looking at the engine?

DuckDodgers

Under the dash, to the left of the steering wheel, with a click cover. looks like a computer hook-up...which is what it is.

poppop

Will this procedure work for a 2006 TSX? I need to know WHERE the AFR sensor is located - and if easier to access from the top or bottom. Chilton's manual and other resources haven't helped me locate the AFR sensor. P0135 code - all fuses and relays check OK.

jbrown1201

My 06 TSX threw a P0141 code heated o2 sensor bank 2 sensor 1. Where would this be located?

TexasHonda

Secondary O2 sensor is located on the top rear of the catalytic converter.

Note: the primary sensor is an Air/Fuel Sensor and not an oxygen sensor. Similar but more costly. Both have heater circuits and will throw same code P0141 for a heater element fault.

You need to check the A/F heater resistance (5.4-7.3 ohms if good). If heater resistance checks OK, then fault is wiring, connector, or PCM.

good luck