DIY removal tips:

(Yes I took pics. Hondata's removal page is excellent, but there were a couple of tips I had. Some of the following pics are from Hondata with my annotations.)

Keep all your screws and fasteners in Ziploc/Glad bags. This seems a no brainer, but for some who don't do a lot of mechanical DIY work, this can save time and headache in reassembly. If you're REALLY anal, buy new screws from your dealer or an online parts store.

I had a hard time reaching in and disconnecting the ECU plugs. Use one hand/finger to press down the lock tab (on top of each plug), and user the other to ease the plug out. DON'T pull the wires -- a mishap pulling a pin/wire out of a plug will ruin your fun.

For some reason, I had the easiest time starting from the forward-most plug working back towards the shifter. The plugs are unique, so you can't plug one back in to the wrong port.



There's a metal tab with a wiring bundle fastened to it with a snap fastener. I couldn't get the fastener to release. I absolutely could not get the ECU to slide out between this metal tab and the structure above (HVAC plenum?) without bending the tab, so -- I simply removed the ECU from the driver's side. You have to really muscle the carpet down to provide clearance, but it was easier than endangering wiring bundles. (Make sure you have wiring and plugs out of the way on the passenger side when you reinsert the ECU.) Push the gas pedal all the way down (you've disconnected that battery and removed the ignition key, right?), and worked the carpet down and the ECU should slide out easily.



One of the screws for the bottom of the steering wheel column is different from the others. Remember which it is, or simply reinsert it partially while your parts are away. Getting the bottom cover off is easy, just be patient and keep moving it around as Hondata's page suggests. There's a metal part in there that you could bend if you wrench it out forcibly.

Getting it back on is another matter ... the screws are upside down (as are you), you have to line them up, get them all the way into the recesses. It can be frustrating. Just have plenty of light, and patience. Oh ... and I used an old cheat of putting a very tiny drop of Krazy Glue (cyanoacrylate) in the screw head, affixing it to the screwdriver, then threading the screw in. The driver will become unglued when you pull it or pivot it. Again, use VERY LITTLE GLUE. About a pinhead's worth. If you think you may not have enough, you've probably used too much.

There are two connectors around the immobilizer module, disconnect them and don’t yank the wires too much.





The two Philips screws (#14 in the parts breakdown; part no. 72118-ST7-003 on my 2006) fastening the immobilization unit) have REALLY badly cast screw heads. If you're not very diligent about applying pressure/torque to these screws, you can easily strip them out. I don't think you could get them out with vice grip pliers if you trash them. If there's ANYTHING I might've bought from a dealer and use new parts during reinstallation, it's these. They're only a dollar or two. (I believe these are #1-Philips screws while all others on this job are #2-Philips.)




Finally, some have affixed blue painter's tape to the ECU, immobilizer and valet key[2] and written their name on it. Not a bad idea, though I suspect the folks in Torrance don't have a bench full of units all loose and getting mixed up. I used my Dymo industrial labeler to put my name and the last 7 of my VIN on each as a more lasting identification. I also wrote "Hondata 09/2009" on the underside of the ECU when it was returned (not visible unless you remove it).



[2] Yes, Hondata just needs a key that starts the car, so you needn't send one of your black keys if you have a valet key.