DC Header BROKE!!
DC Header BROKE!!
I've had the DC header on for about...3months or so.. It now has a exhaust leak where the header is braided at! The car sounded very loud at WOT..the Hiss sounded way out of control.. so i knew something was wrong.. and around the motor it sounded like the exhaust note changed.. So i parked it and waited for the morning since it was kinda late last night and the car was hot (motor) ..so this morning i lefted the car and thought to myself that a bolt must've came loose or something.. All bolts were there and snugg.. so i tell my friend to turn on the car and press the gas... i felt air coming out of the braided part of the header.. so i put my hand over a corner without him on the gas and i felt alot of air coming out.. so i told him again to press the gas... A SERIOUS LEAK! Calling the place where i purchased the header tomorrow morning and im gonna ask for a replacement..and next year im gonna purchase the Maxium Works Header.. but it seems DC has too many problems.. and this is the new improved DC header..when i get the new one and it breaks, im gonna just keep my stock one on..
Do you have pics? Also did the braided part just break off or is it still connected just with a lot of air leak? I also have the supposed fixed DC headers but I hear this crackling sound whenever I idle with my car and I'm not sure if its normal.
So did you purchase the header about three months ago too?
The flex pipe breakage issue was endemic of the older DC headers, which is why I spent the extra money for the Comptech stainless (which unfortunately doesn't produce nearly the same gains). Most people who bought the old ones had the union weld redone before getting it installed. DC has subsequently released a "fixed" model, which allegedly has a stronger weld.
In any case, it sounds like you got an old part that was inherently crack-prone. That sucks. However, it should be fairly easy to have the union rewelded and reinstall the header.
The flex pipe breakage issue was endemic of the older DC headers, which is why I spent the extra money for the Comptech stainless (which unfortunately doesn't produce nearly the same gains). Most people who bought the old ones had the union weld redone before getting it installed. DC has subsequently released a "fixed" model, which allegedly has a stronger weld.
In any case, it sounds like you got an old part that was inherently crack-prone. That sucks. However, it should be fairly easy to have the union rewelded and reinstall the header.
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Don't mean to hijack his thread but does any one know if the crackling/metallic popping sound is normal during idle with the headers installed. (It's not hissing for sure.) It's not very loud and it sounds similar to a car cooling down once its been used during the hot day or something like that. I've noticed it since the first day I installed the headers and I thought I did something wrong. I can't hear it if I have my music turned on but if I'm in a say a drive-thru and I turn my radio off, I can hear a crackling sound coming from the headers. Everything else seems normal though, I can feel the gains at the top end and the hiss sounds good.
Originally Posted by Tsx536
PreciseStylez, did you have the fixed version of the DC Header or the older version?
I would like to know as I was in the market for a DCS Header.
This is SUCK.
Cracking/leaking/detaching welds have always been a problem on DC ceramic headers, and most american headers for some reason. JDM headers seem to be a little more durable but can also have the same problem. Since most JDM headers are stainless, maybe it has to do with the ceramic coating process bonding to the material and making the weld points weak(?).
Since the JDM header won't generally fit on the TSX, I guess we're stuck USDM companies making headers for the K24. I have heard good things about Comptech's build quality.
Since the JDM header won't generally fit on the TSX, I guess we're stuck USDM companies making headers for the K24. I have heard good things about Comptech's build quality.
One thing I can think of why it's more prone for the DC header separation on the TSX. The TSX uses a flange that is firmly attached to the CAT flange with nuts and bolts. Whereas some previous Acuras/Hondas use a donut type seal and spring loaded bolts for the connection. The spring loaded bolts allow the flange to pull away slightly from the CAT during hard launches, thus sometimes creates what known as the fake BOV sound. A common fix for this BOV sound problem is to install motor mount inserts to reduce the motion of the motor during hard launches, and/or replace the spring loaded bolts with regular bolts to prevent the connection separation.
Now, the TSX uses a flex pipe at the flange connection to allow a small amount of flexing but I doubt it is strong enough to withstand repeats of serious hard launches. Welding the flange to the flex pipe connection should solve the separation problem. The question is, which version broke this time? Some pics would clarify this...
Now, the TSX uses a flex pipe at the flange connection to allow a small amount of flexing but I doubt it is strong enough to withstand repeats of serious hard launches. Welding the flange to the flex pipe connection should solve the separation problem. The question is, which version broke this time? Some pics would clarify this...
I had the same problem, I have a extra collector if your Vendor will not warintee it. I had a new flex pipe installed but Midus did a shitty weld thus it needs someone to spend 10min with a welder to make a perfect seal.
Word up home fry
Originally Posted by CJams
Good thing I am only in the header research process. Man! I wanted one of these things.
Actualy its not that bad now, DC has fixed their issue and actualy sent me an extra collector rather than having me send mine back for repair. It was some hastle but they did take care of me and now I have spare parts. The comptech is better built but their own dyno gains are pretty small:
CT: http://www.comptechusa.com/store/med...tsx_header.pdf
DCHeader: http://www.vtec.net/articles/article...x_dcheader.gif
OBX makes one for our car as well, but I have yet to see a dyno.
Yes..i have the new version of the DC Header... i guess the braided peice is called the Flex Pipe? You can't see the hole where it's leaking..but you can freakin hear it! I believe its due to wheel hop and motor movement during shifts... where are the aftermarket motor mounts for our cars?
Originally Posted by PrecyseStylez
Yes..i have the new version of the DC Header... i guess the braided peice is called the Flex Pipe? You can't see the hole where it's leaking..but you can freakin hear it! I believe its due to wheel hop and motor movement during shifts... where are the aftermarket motor mounts for our cars?
I have the older version and I got mine tack welded up for $10 at the local muffler shop before putting it on.

For more info on the welds and install. Go here:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...ghlight=header
Originally Posted by sigmachi96
The old header would look like this...
Notice the shorter flex pipe area.
Notice the shorter flex pipe area.
didnt have time to call them today.. definitely doing it tomorrow..
Hey Precyse, can you take pictures of your header? This is making a lot of us wary of going with DC. Not to bad-mouth them, but how do you have problems after a redisign that is supposed to fix the original problem?
I too just broke mine (DC header). It was fine in the afternoon. Parked the car for 2 hours; started it back up and it sounded like shit. Went under the car, and the sound was coming from the flex pipe. Took the downpipe off the car, and the flange on the cat side was totally detached from the flex pipe. I took 2 pictures of it.
Ended up brining it to a friend's shop, and he pushed the flange back on, and welded a continuous bead along the inside of the flange, where it meets the end pipe part of the flex pipe. This is definitely done better than how DC had it. the original welds were real light, and obviously real weak.
BTW, I've only had the header on the car for 40 days.
Ended up brining it to a friend's shop, and he pushed the flange back on, and welded a continuous bead along the inside of the flange, where it meets the end pipe part of the flex pipe. This is definitely done better than how DC had it. the original welds were real light, and obviously real weak.
BTW, I've only had the header on the car for 40 days.
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I would be interested in knowing what the production date was on both of your headers because I have a few headers here and they are the latest and newest version. So what is the date on your box?
Originally Posted by Tsx536
This is the old version. Is this what you have?

PrecyseStylez,
The prior picture has the stock TSX header (back) and revision 1 of the DC Sports header (front).
The below picture is the latest version. Can you verify that your broken header looks like this? Notice the longer weld where the header connects to the CAT.
The prior picture has the stock TSX header (back) and revision 1 of the DC Sports header (front).
The below picture is the latest version. Can you verify that your broken header looks like this? Notice the longer weld where the header connects to the CAT.
Originally Posted by sigmachi96
PrecyseStylez,
The prior picture has the stock TSX header (back) and revision 1 of the DC Sports header (front).
The below picture is the latest version. Can you verify that your broken header looks like this? Notice the longer weld where the header connects to the CAT.

The prior picture has the stock TSX header (back) and revision 1 of the DC Sports header (front).
The below picture is the latest version. Can you verify that your broken header looks like this? Notice the longer weld where the header connects to the CAT.

Oh..i see now! Sorry..was just alil confused. I have to look at it... im pretty sure its the newer version.. i dont remember my header looking like the picture of the DC Header with the Stock header.. I remember what it looks like and cant remember it looking like that.. But the last pic reminds me of it.. I'll look at it later on tonight.. then i can really let u guys know.
Yes i called the place i purchased it..and they told me to contact DC Sports about the Warranty and the company i bought it from will have records of purchase if needed
Well, I'm biting the bullet and getting one installed tomorrow. Luckily, AEM/DC Sports is local to me and I've got assurances from my shop that they will handle all warranty claims for me if the need arise.
for Street Image Inc. (board vendor).
Precyse, best of luck to you and please keep us updated on this ongoing issue.
Precyse, best of luck to you and please keep us updated on this ongoing issue.
Originally Posted by CobaltForge
Well, I'm biting the bullet and getting one installed tomorrow. Luckily, AEM/DC Sports is local to me and I've got assurances from my shop that they will handle all warranty claims for me if the need arise.
for Street Image Inc. (board vendor).
Precyse, best of luck to you and please keep us updated on this ongoing issue.
Precyse, best of luck to you and please keep us updated on this ongoing issue.



