Brake Fluid
Brake Fluid
For those of you who have changed pads, rotors, brake lines and/or replaced brake fluid or other brake related components, what brake fluid did you guys use to replace the factory fluid for your specific application? Did you guys just use the factory Honda Brake Fluid or another type or brand?
My setup will soon be Powerslot Rotors all the way around, Hawk HPS Pads all the way around, Goodridge G-Stop Brake Line Kit (from TireRack)
With this setup, I don't know what kind of brake fluid I should use.
I will be going to my first track event on September 23, but other than that one track day, I will rarely be going to the track or autocross.
What are your guys' thoughts and/or suggestions?
My setup will soon be Powerslot Rotors all the way around, Hawk HPS Pads all the way around, Goodridge G-Stop Brake Line Kit (from TireRack)
With this setup, I don't know what kind of brake fluid I should use.
I will be going to my first track event on September 23, but other than that one track day, I will rarely be going to the track or autocross.
What are your guys' thoughts and/or suggestions?
No idea but I'm sure someone at Honda-tech will answer your question. Or you can go to a Honda dealership and look on the label at the back of the brake fluid bottle.
P.S I have a few bottles in my garage, I'll check tomorrow morning
P.S I have a few bottles in my garage, I'll check tomorrow morning
Originally Posted by TSX 3Pedal
For those of you who have changed pads, rotors, brake lines and/or replaced brake fluid or other brake related components, what brake fluid did you guys use to replace the factory fluid for your specific application? Did you guys just use the factory Honda Brake Fluid or another type or brand?
My setup will soon be Powerslot Rotors all the way around, Hawk HPS Pads all the way around, Goodridge G-Stop Brake Line Kit (from TireRack)
With this setup, I don't know what kind of brake fluid I should use.
I will be going to my first track event on September 23, but other than that one track day, I will rarely be going to the track or autocross.
What are your guys' thoughts and/or suggestions?
My setup will soon be Powerslot Rotors all the way around, Hawk HPS Pads all the way around, Goodridge G-Stop Brake Line Kit (from TireRack)
With this setup, I don't know what kind of brake fluid I should use.
I will be going to my first track event on September 23, but other than that one track day, I will rarely be going to the track or autocross.
What are your guys' thoughts and/or suggestions?
Valvoline Syntech DOT4 - cheap, easy to find, and good.
Originally Posted by Bill Hook
Valvoline Syntech DOT4 - cheap, easy to find, and good.
Would I be safe using the DOT4 brake fluid?
Originally Posted by TSX 3Pedal
I read in the manual that only DOT3 should be used with our brake system, but DOT4 can be used only as a temporary replacement and should be replaced with DOT3 as soon as possible.
Would I be safe using the DOT4 brake fluid?
Would I be safe using the DOT4 brake fluid?
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Originally Posted by moda_way
Couple of very knowledgable ppl on here are running DOT 4. I read the same thing and just used OEM fluid. I have the spec difference between DOT 3, 4 and 5.1. DOT 3 and 4 are close. I wouldn't run DOT 5.1 in our system at all.
Thanks anyway JeffTSX
Originally Posted by TSX 3Pedal
My setup will soon be Powerslot Rotors all the way around, Hawk HPS Pads all the way around, Goodridge G-Stop Brake Line Kit (from TireRack)
Originally Posted by TSX 3Pedal
With my proposed setup, would I be good to go with OEM Honda brake fluid or should I upgrade to something else?
Originally Posted by TSX 3Pedal
What are the main differences between DOT 3 and DOT 4 brake fluid?
Thanks anyway JeffTSX
Thanks anyway JeffTSX
Originally Posted by moda_way
Viscosity and boiling; DOT 4 having a lower viscosity and higher boiling point. I don't have my spec sheet in front of me at the moment, but they are fairly close.
Originally Posted by TSX 3Pedal
Why did you go with the OEM DOT 3 fluid rather than a DOT 4 fluid?
Originally Posted by JTso
Nice white papers. However, I still think your assessment about the bleeding process (e.g. ppl pushing to hard on the brake pedal in a 2 man bleeding method) caused the few master cylinders to go. The white papers do mention the borate ester COULD be a problem. Another reason to just stick to the OEM DOT 3.
Originally Posted by moda_way
Nice white papers. However, I still think your assessment about the bleeding process (e.g. ppl pushing to hard on the brake pedal in a 2 man bleeding method) caused the few master cylinders to go. The white papers do mention the borate ester COULD be a problem. Another reason to just stick to the OEM DOT 3.

My brake bleeding preference is the "vacuum" type unit to draw fluid out rather than using pressure to force it out.
I use ATE Super Blue or Gold depending on the flush. Honda System Safe in the last 2 Type-Rs (2000 and 1998) and the previous Integra. Great Boiling point and 1 Liter can be had for $10-$12 and will flush the car at least once.
I use the pressure method for bleeding but I prefer to use a soft silicon hose on the bleeder screw submerged in a small bottle. It allow you to release the pedal without closing the screw since it pulls fluid back instead of air. I can elaborate if those without a vacuum system are interested
I use the pressure method for bleeding but I prefer to use a soft silicon hose on the bleeder screw submerged in a small bottle. It allow you to release the pedal without closing the screw since it pulls fluid back instead of air. I can elaborate if those without a vacuum system are interested
What do you guys think about this:
Valvoline SynPower High Performance Synthetic Brake Fluid
http://www.valvoline.com/pages/produ...asp?product=51
Valvoline SynPower High Performance Synthetic Brake Fluid
http://www.valvoline.com/pages/produ...asp?product=51
Originally Posted by JTso
Hmm... I don't remember mentioning about brake master cylinder failure due to bleeding process... 
My brake bleeding preference is the "vacuum" type unit to draw fluid out rather than using pressure to force it out.

My brake bleeding preference is the "vacuum" type unit to draw fluid out rather than using pressure to force it out.
As for specs, I now have the spec sheet in front of me...
Wet Boiling Points: JTso's link already provides the same as I have.
Viscosity (measured at 212 F):
DOT 5.1 - 2.1 mm2/s
DOT 4 - 1.5 mm2/s
DOT 3 - 2.1 mm2/s
So viscosity is the same for DOT 3 and DOT 5.1 at 212. It is slightly lower for DOT 4.
Originally Posted by TSX 3Pedal
What do you guys think about this:
Valvoline SynPower High Performance Synthetic Brake Fluid
http://www.valvoline.com/pages/produ...asp?product=51
Valvoline SynPower High Performance Synthetic Brake Fluid
http://www.valvoline.com/pages/produ...asp?product=51
Originally Posted by moda_way
Must have been one of the other very knowledgable members. Sorry.
As for specs, I now have the spec sheet in front of me...
Wet Boiling Points: JTso's link already provides the same as I have.
Viscosity (measured at 212 F):
DOT 5.1 - 2.1 mm2/s
DOT 4 - 1.5 mm2/s
DOT 3 - 2.1 mm2/s
So viscosity is the same for DOT 3 and DOT 5.1 at 212. It is slightly lower for DOT 4.
As for specs, I now have the spec sheet in front of me...
Wet Boiling Points: JTso's link already provides the same as I have.
Viscosity (measured at 212 F):
DOT 5.1 - 2.1 mm2/s
DOT 4 - 1.5 mm2/s
DOT 3 - 2.1 mm2/s
So viscosity is the same for DOT 3 and DOT 5.1 at 212. It is slightly lower for DOT 4.
Originally Posted by TSX 3Pedal
So does that mean higher vicosity is better? 

I've been using Motul RBF600 brake fluid in my Prelude since I changed the brake lines in 1999. I haven't had a problem with it. I remember that there were couple of years where I didn't even change the fluid and it was still fine.
Originally Posted by moda_way
It is all dependent upon the system. Higher viscosity can slip past the system seals and lower could exert too much pressure over time. My guess is DOT 4 won't hurt anything unless the borate ester in the DOT 4 could cause issue with the seals. There is just no long-term, independent testing that shows this for our TSX yet.
My long-term independent testing of my Integra shows that Valvoline isn't a problem and my MC is still good and the car still stops from triple digits. Unless they made the system seals out of some super-duper material that lesser Acuras don't get, then I'd say it isn't an issue.
Originally Posted by Bill Hook
My long-term independent testing of my Integra shows that Valvoline isn't a problem and my MC is still good and the car still stops from triple digits. Unless they made the system seals out of some super-duper material that lesser Acuras don't get, then I'd say it isn't an issue.
Originally Posted by moda_way
Well, I was referring to a TSX because I'm not sure if your Integra was made in Japan or not, which would mean that a separate supplier of the master cylinder would've been used more than likely. There are a ton of variables that are different, not to mention VSA. I'm not saying you should stick to OEM, just saying that I haven't seen a reason to say switching is better.
Originally Posted by Bill Hook
AFAIK, Nissin is it and it was made in Japan. VSA is a computer program that cycles the ABS to control stability, but doesn't change the fundamentals of hydraulic system design. The fact that my front calipers don't have much left in the way of rubber dustboots tells me that OEM fluid would get mighty hot.
I looked at the cap on the brake fluid reservoir today and it said to use DOT 3 or DOT 4.
But in the manual it says to only use Honda DOT 3. But in case of an emergency, DOT 4 can be used but has to be replaced with Honda DOT 3 brake fluid as soon as possible.
But in the manual it says to only use Honda DOT 3. But in case of an emergency, DOT 4 can be used but has to be replaced with Honda DOT 3 brake fluid as soon as possible.
Well, if you are doing modifications to your car and replacing certain non-stock items, you are already not following what the manual says anymore. Make sense?
Just try one type of fluid and see how it works for your particular kind of driving. Then make the appropriate changes accordingly. The fun part of modifying is you get to play with many different components and learn something in the process.
Just try one type of fluid and see how it works for your particular kind of driving. Then make the appropriate changes accordingly. The fun part of modifying is you get to play with many different components and learn something in the process.
Originally Posted by stphy32
good thread for me... I am changing my brake fluid tomorrow and was looking into getting that Valvoline SynPro that TSX3pedal linked.
Still undecided if I'll go to that or stick OEM fluid....
Still undecided if I'll go to that or stick OEM fluid....

I highly recommend changing per the spec. time and/or mileage.
I am at 51K miles and a month shy of 2 years.
Tomorrow my friend is going to do the following on my car for me: (I really need to learn this myself)
* replacing the rear pads with Hawk Ceramics (already had the front pads AND rotors replaced about 20k miles ago
* Drain & Fill Tranny Fluid
* Drail & Fill Radiator Fluid
* Bleed brakes, flush/clean and fill
* Oil Change
* Cabin/pollen/HEPA filter change
* Cleaning K&N Filter for the CAI
busy busy
based on reading this thread, I really think I will go with the Valv SynPro.. since some of you who have changed your brake fluid already are finding it baked and crappy. I do a lot of city driving and sometimes brake hard
... we'll see how things go

p.s.- my front pads did not need to be replaced- had about 90% of pad... I just wanted to put on the HAWKS and my rotors were so warped at 30k miles I had to replace them...
Tomorrow my friend is going to do the following on my car for me: (I really need to learn this myself)
* replacing the rear pads with Hawk Ceramics (already had the front pads AND rotors replaced about 20k miles ago
* Drain & Fill Tranny Fluid
* Drail & Fill Radiator Fluid
* Bleed brakes, flush/clean and fill
* Oil Change
* Cabin/pollen/HEPA filter change
* Cleaning K&N Filter for the CAI
busy busy
based on reading this thread, I really think I will go with the Valv SynPro.. since some of you who have changed your brake fluid already are finding it baked and crappy. I do a lot of city driving and sometimes brake hard
... we'll see how things go

p.s.- my front pads did not need to be replaced- had about 90% of pad... I just wanted to put on the HAWKS and my rotors were so warped at 30k miles I had to replace them...


Hi stiffy