Simba91102

TL specs are 37 ft lbs for the caliper bolts and 79 ft lbs for the brackets (non Type-S). I'll bet you it's the same for the TSX (hope it is anyway, since that's what I used).

slobeatz

Just wanted to say thanks for this write-up! Between this, the copy of the helms manual from another thread, and the thread talking about bleeding the brakes, I was able to do this job with no problem, and I've never bled or replaced pads before. Surprisingly, my front pads aren't even worn half-way and I have 50,000 miles on my car. Rears were in desperate need for new pads though.

kostantinos

iTrader: (1)

just did this and althought it wasn't too difficult, i stripped the lower caliper bolt mounting it back on the car

whay should i do, get a helicoil for the spindle hole and a new bolt?
replace the spindle?

please help

jaxone

"these are very tight, i recommend a breaker bar."

thanks for the informative and well illustrated guide. I have replaced several disks before on other cars, but the bolts were so snug on my Acura that I was afraid I was possibly doing something wrong and about to do serious damage. Your statement above reassured me to continue, and the rest of the job was simple and uneventful.

most appreciated.

djpinoy

I'm working on my '04 TSX right now and the Acura service manual mentions that you need to remove the spindle nut from the center of the rotor before you can remove the rotor itself. I didn't see that mentioned in the pics above...

I used an impact driver to take out the two screws, but the rotor still won't budge, and I don't have a (monkey) wrench large enough for the spindle nut. Anybody have any clues here?

Thanks,
djpinoy

p.s. The service manual also recommends screwing in two bolts into the extra holes of the rotor to pull it away from the knuckle. I'll post pics here once I'm done...

PACman

You don't need to remove the spindle nut to get the rotor off. Once you get the 2 support screws off, that should be it since nothing will be holding the rotor. Most likely rust build up is keeping the rotor from freeing up. I used WD-40 and a rubber mallet to "coheres" it to come off.

LukeaTron

I believe the bracket that holds the brake line to the control arm uses a bolt with the same thread size as the "spare" holes in the rotor. Just thread that guy into the hole and it will push the rotor and hub apart. You do not need to remove the spindle nut unless you want to pull the axle out of the hub. There is no need to do that if you're only trying to pull the rotor.

djpinoy

Yep - Thanks PACman and LukeaTron - That did the trick The rotor was just stuck due to rust, and I used the exact bolt mentioned to pry the rotor off. I had Pepboys turn the rotors ($10 ea + tax), the $20 and 3 hours later, I was good to go.

For anyone else who hasn't done this yet, pics are available here:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...1&id=502851915

The "Car Maintenance 202" album that I refer to is available here:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...4&id=502851915

Cheers and thanks much to everyone for their help,
djpinoy

narutobear

Question about the lower bolt.. 1 of the bolt keep spinning.. it doesn't tighten up.. the other 3 torques properly. i check the bolt the threads looks okay.. any idea how this happened ? buying a new bolt and maybe that caliper bracket just in case...

prelude358

Are you talk about bracket or caliper??I would concern the caliper bolt.sometime you need one 17mm wrench hold the inside nut and while tighten up.

Mikeski

Great thread...missed this one while searching online before I did a DIY on replacing the rotors/pads on my 05-TSX...all went smoothly for the most part (except I didn't know the size of the bolt to have for popping off a frozen on rotor...thanked poltergeist for that).

I didn't put a dab of grease on the shims as recommended here, what kind of problem might I expect from not doing this?

With regard to DIY or having a garage do it, IMO I prefer doing it myself since (once you have learned how) you will *know* it is done right...On a previous car the dealer did "brake maintenance" for $400...I found out much later they did bugger all...live and learn.

hotsoup

Do you guys bleed your brakes? I have a power bleeder for my VW. I'm working on gf's TSX. It seems like I need an adapter, darnit!

Tsx6363

when you say 8mm bolt to push off. you're putting it in the screw holes holdin the rotor onto the hub right? and does it matter how long it is? the longer the better?

Simba91102

No; there are two other holes (I'm pretty sure there are two, it's been a while since I did it) that you use so that once the bolt gets through the rotor, it will contact the face of the hub and "push" the rotor off. Not really though, all you're doing is breaking the rotor free from the rust that can develop between the inside of the rotor where it contacts the hub. Once that's done, the rotor will come right off (there's nothing else holding in on assuming you've removed the two screws).

kanonen

ok so i tried to work on my flush/bleed, rear pads, front pads and front rotors replacement. I got all of it done except front rotors.
I just couldn't get the front bracket's bolts to move. I tried heating them with an anti rust spray, I tried freezing them with another spray. I am putting such force that the whole car front is being lifted. Nothing. I am giving up on it and going to a mechanic to drill them, use air tools, use a torch or what ever....what a nightmare, such a failure.
The funny part is I thought I'd be having trouble with the 2 rotor screws, but an impact driver took em out in 5 seconds.

Simba91102

Are you sure you're on the right bolts? I didn't have any trouble with the front calipers, and that's after almost three years and three Northeast winters (though I did chew up a few impact driver bits on the rotor screws before it occurred to me that I had skipped a step).

Simba91102

One other stupid question..... are you sure you're turning the wrench/ratchet/breaker bar the right way?

kanonen

That's bolts B. I also damaged the 2 other bolts in the caliper assembly C after numerous freeze/heat trials. I did get them off, but I just ordered 2 new ones.

If I am torquing the right way?...well unless they go the opposite way than the caliper assembly bolts, then I am right.

kanonen

75$ at a local mechanic. And I got to stick around. It just needed a longer wrench and torque it while the car is high up for more clearance...it did take about 45 mn to do both rotors.

Simba91102

Congrats.... and as they say.... "the right tool for the job" (fortunately I have about every tool known to man, so...... I tend to assume too much, too often I guess).