Break in oil debate/question
Break in oil debate/question
Just wanted some opinions, i've heard that:
a) You should leave the break-in oil in as long as possible, till 0%
b) The first oil should be changed a bit premature, because crap from the engine breaking in gets in the oil
My 08 is just at 5k miles today, I'm still at 30% oil life. It changed over to 30% at 4545, and the way it has been going, something like 650ish miles per 10%. So that puts 0% at maybe 6400ish, give or take a couple hundred miles
Should I really wait until 6400 miles for the first oil change? That seems pretty long. First chance I get to get over there, I'll probably be at around 5500, but the next chance I get I'll be really pushing 6500...
Since this is the first one it's free from where I bought the car. I've been checking the level and it doesn't appear to be burning any oil on break in(which is good, right?)
Any advice appreciated!
a) You should leave the break-in oil in as long as possible, till 0%
b) The first oil should be changed a bit premature, because crap from the engine breaking in gets in the oil
My 08 is just at 5k miles today, I'm still at 30% oil life. It changed over to 30% at 4545, and the way it has been going, something like 650ish miles per 10%. So that puts 0% at maybe 6400ish, give or take a couple hundred miles
Should I really wait until 6400 miles for the first oil change? That seems pretty long. First chance I get to get over there, I'll probably be at around 5500, but the next chance I get I'll be really pushing 6500...
Since this is the first one it's free from where I bought the car. I've been checking the level and it doesn't appear to be burning any oil on break in(which is good, right?)
Any advice appreciated!
In my opinion, there is nothing to be gained by leaving the break-in oil in the engine pass 5,000 miles.
Many years ago, it was common to do the initial oil change at around 500 miles, and then again at 2,500 miles. I think that is what Honda is wanting to prevent with their warning. The materials, and machining processes, have greatly improved in recent decades. How many cars do you see today with smoke coming from the exhaust -- that have not been abused or allowed to run low on oil? In the 50's and 60's, you could hardly get on the road without getting behind a "smoker" -- at some point during your trip.
As VQPower37 stated, the oil should be changed as soon as feasible after it hits 15 percent.
Many years ago, it was common to do the initial oil change at around 500 miles, and then again at 2,500 miles. I think that is what Honda is wanting to prevent with their warning. The materials, and machining processes, have greatly improved in recent decades. How many cars do you see today with smoke coming from the exhaust -- that have not been abused or allowed to run low on oil? In the 50's and 60's, you could hardly get on the road without getting behind a "smoker" -- at some point during your trip.
As VQPower37 stated, the oil should be changed as soon as feasible after it hits 15 percent.
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From: Somewhere between 70 and 125 mph
Originally Posted by VQPower37
ur suppose to change the oil at 15%
Do the math, if you keep changing the oil at 15% promptly, within a year or so (average mileage) you'll have shorted yourself 45% of the oil's lifetime. Since I use synth, I have no problem waiting until 0% before I have it changed.
OP, I'm not sure what to tell you, as I bought mine pre-owned. You mght call the service department of your dealer and ask the manager what he recommends.
I had the first oil change done on my 06 at 7,066 miles. My friend, a acura service manager, told me not to get it changed before 15% but 0% with the kind of driving I do is alright.
Originally Posted by davidspalding
...Since I use synth, I have no problem waiting until 0% before I have it changed...
The better grade of AMS Oil is good for 25,000 miles. Mobile 1 used to have the same interval, but I believe that now say to follow the manufactures instructions -- probably helps to keep them out of trouble with the manufactures. With Mobile 1, I have been changing at 10,000 mile intervals (the dealer recommends 3,750 miles regardless of oil type -- I guess they make money on oil changes). In any case, if you want to protect the warranty, you can not extend the interval indicated by the Maintenance Minder -- or by the owner's manual.
If I waited until 0%, it would actually be at around -15 to -20 percent by the time I managed to get to the Acura dealer. Appointments, and other commitments, always seem to take precedence over oil changes.
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From: Somewhere between 70 and 125 mph
You didn't get my drift ... someone seemed to indicate that 15%, when the maint. minder starts harrassing you with the yellow "(i)" light, is when you have to change the oil. I beg to differ. I say, 0% is fine. With synth I could probably stretch it a bit further, but the money I'd save by staving off the change for a month is negligible. Not sure I want to go 10,000 miles like the 2004 owners manual (OM) indicated, presuming they discovered something about the engine post-2004 that prescribed more frequent changes. Haven't heard from a reputable source either way, so I'll "go with the manufacturer's recommendation." Because I'm using a better oil than the recommendation, I'm quite comfortable with this.
I find that I can get my oil changed with a few days' notice, no problem. YMMV. Clearly if you wait until 0% and takes you a month to get around to it, and most owners are similar, the logic behind the annoyware indicator at 15% becomes clear. But the contention that owners should change the oil IMMEDIATELY at 15% is naive, and not corroborated by the OM. That's all I was suggesting.
I find that I can get my oil changed with a few days' notice, no problem. YMMV. Clearly if you wait until 0% and takes you a month to get around to it, and most owners are similar, the logic behind the annoyware indicator at 15% becomes clear. But the contention that owners should change the oil IMMEDIATELY at 15% is naive, and not corroborated by the OM. That's all I was suggesting.
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Originally Posted by Jim Holloman
And, if you didn't use synth?
The better grade of AMS Oil is good for 25,000 miles. Mobile 1 used to have the same interval, but I believe that now say to follow the manufactures instructions -- probably helps to keep them out of trouble with the manufactures. With Mobile 1, I have been changing at 10,000 mile intervals (the dealer recommends 3,750 miles regardless of oil type -- I guess they make money on oil changes). In any case, if you want to protect the warranty, you can not extend the interval indicated by the Maintenance Minder -- or by the owner's manual.
If I waited until 0%, it would actually be at around -15 to -20 percent by the time I managed to get to the Acura dealer. Appointments, and other commitments, always seem to take precedence over oil changes.
The better grade of AMS Oil is good for 25,000 miles. Mobile 1 used to have the same interval, but I believe that now say to follow the manufactures instructions -- probably helps to keep them out of trouble with the manufactures. With Mobile 1, I have been changing at 10,000 mile intervals (the dealer recommends 3,750 miles regardless of oil type -- I guess they make money on oil changes). In any case, if you want to protect the warranty, you can not extend the interval indicated by the Maintenance Minder -- or by the owner's manual.
If I waited until 0%, it would actually be at around -15 to -20 percent by the time I managed to get to the Acura dealer. Appointments, and other commitments, always seem to take precedence over oil changes.
No need to worry too much about your oil. You can change it between 10% - 0% at you convenience. Looking at the percentage number and the mileage that you have currently, you must be driving your car very easy. I won't worry about the oil if that's the case.
I just wasn't sure about mileage, they cannot yell at me for waiting too long if the MM isn't at 0 yet!
This dealer is the complete opposite direction of work, and for me to do it on a weekday it would take half a day. Only reason I have to do it where I bought it is because it's free. Otherwise there is a dealer not even 5 miles from work which I will try, hoping they do a good job.
I just don't have the tools/equipment/time to learn to do it myself, that's all.
Judging by your responses I'm leaning towards pushing it back a week, I should still be able to get it in at least a couple hundred miles before 0% if the MM continues it's rate of 700ish miles per 10%.
Oh and this dealer lets you schedule online, and shows the prices for the different services. A "B" service is $121! All it is is an oil change and checking about a dozen things. They have 2 different entries for an "A" service and a "standard oil change", same price.
The "standard oil change" includes a multi point inspection anyway. If I go there again I'm not going by codes, just telling them to do an oil change. The codes are for complete morons who have NO clue about car maintenence! But they still are good indicators for time when service is due.
If there is something that could need attention, no dealer is gonna not bring it up with you while they have your car there in the service bay. They are gonna look over everything anyway.
This dealer is the complete opposite direction of work, and for me to do it on a weekday it would take half a day. Only reason I have to do it where I bought it is because it's free. Otherwise there is a dealer not even 5 miles from work which I will try, hoping they do a good job.
I just don't have the tools/equipment/time to learn to do it myself, that's all.
Judging by your responses I'm leaning towards pushing it back a week, I should still be able to get it in at least a couple hundred miles before 0% if the MM continues it's rate of 700ish miles per 10%.
Oh and this dealer lets you schedule online, and shows the prices for the different services. A "B" service is $121! All it is is an oil change and checking about a dozen things. They have 2 different entries for an "A" service and a "standard oil change", same price.
The "standard oil change" includes a multi point inspection anyway. If I go there again I'm not going by codes, just telling them to do an oil change. The codes are for complete morons who have NO clue about car maintenence! But they still are good indicators for time when service is due.
If there is something that could need attention, no dealer is gonna not bring it up with you while they have your car there in the service bay. They are gonna look over everything anyway.
...aaaanddd why are we going to the dealer if its out of the way? You're not saying anything about a loaner (having to take a whole day)...Pick up a loaner after work one day, and leave it at the dealership until the end of work the next day if you want it changed at the dealer so bad...
i know going to the dealer is nice cause they have the free coffee and soda, but i know of a few national changes that are pretty good at changing the oil in car.
i know going to the dealer is nice cause they have the free coffee and soda, but i know of a few national changes that are pretty good at changing the oil in car.
Originally Posted by PittIsIt
...aaaanddd why are we going to the dealer if its out of the way? You're not saying anything about a loaner (having to take a whole day)...Pick up a loaner after work one day, and leave it at the dealership until the end of work the next day if you want it changed at the dealer so bad...
i know going to the dealer is nice cause they have the free coffee and soda, but i know of a few national changes that are pretty good at changing the oil in car.
i know going to the dealer is nice cause they have the free coffee and soda, but i know of a few national changes that are pretty good at changing the oil in car.
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Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Somewhere between 70 and 125 mph
Originally Posted by ak3883
This dealer is the complete opposite direction of work, and for me to do it on a weekday it would take half a day. Only reason I have to do it where I bought it is because it's free. Otherwise there is a dealer not even 5 miles from work which I will try, hoping they do a good job.
Oh and this dealer lets you schedule online, and shows the prices for the different services. A "B" service is $121! All it is is an oil change and checking about a dozen things. They have 2 different entries for an "A" service and a "standard oil change", same price.
If I go there again I'm not going by codes, just telling them to do an oil change. The codes are for complete morons who have NO clue about car maintenence! But they still are good indicators for time when service is due.

They are gonna look over everything anyway.
so oil in the car when it is brand new there is more metal shavings from rings setting and other parts breaking in. The filter will help remove 99% of this stuff but there is more then a fully broken in engine. Just due this I would not hessitate one bit to do the first oil change early, at no more then 2000 miles. The only thing you have to lose is a little bit of money. Secondly I would not throw synthetic into the engine until after 5000 miles. Reason why, its cheaper and it will hold up for 3000 miles no problem. After the break in then go to synthetic and go 5000-7500 depending on driving habits, any longer then that the oil is just too dirty and there is viscosity breaks down. Then again there is not a lot of research on it that has been published and a lot of this is pure opinion. As long as the oil is changed at least as much as recomended your engine will be fine. You will get lots more damage if you dont check your oil enough and end up running low.
Originally Posted by shmork53
I would not hessitate one bit to do the first oil change early, at no more then 2000 miles.
As long as the oil is changed at least as much as recomended your engine will be fine.
As long as the oil is changed at least as much as recomended your engine will be fine.
I did my first oil change at 4700 miles, when the MID said I had 5% oil life. Switched to synthetic then and now I have over 22000 miles on it. Been on full synth ever since. No problem with oil consumption. I use a magnetic drain plug and I saw no metal shavings.
Originally Posted by davidspalding
Most of the maintenance listed under your maintenance schedule can be done by any reputable service station. I take mine to a AAA Automark (NC) near work, as they have a courtesy van. I don't need a loaner.
If you've got something like B13, just look up the items in the OM and have a station do it. No good reason to ignore scheduled maintenance.
Um ... well, an Acura dealer will know what "B13" means and what's called for. A third party station ... just tell them. But tell them "just the oil, and don't do the other stuff" only makes sense if you are working on it yourself, or want to treat your car badly.
Assume too much and ... you could get wicked surprise. If you go in thinking the codes are for complete morons, and tell the service manager "just the oil and filter," that may be all you get.
If you've got something like B13, just look up the items in the OM and have a station do it. No good reason to ignore scheduled maintenance.
Um ... well, an Acura dealer will know what "B13" means and what's called for. A third party station ... just tell them. But tell them "just the oil, and don't do the other stuff" only makes sense if you are working on it yourself, or want to treat your car badly.

Assume too much and ... you could get wicked surprise. If you go in thinking the codes are for complete morons, and tell the service manager "just the oil and filter," that may be all you get.
First off, I have a hard time believing there is a Honda or Acura dealer than doesn't included a multipoint inspection with an oil change. Why wouldn't they, while they are draining the oil and people are working under the car? I don't think that dealer would make much money if they didn't talk to people about their cars' overall condition. They aren't gonna literally just change the oil and filter if you tell them you just want an oil change. They have a standard process that includes several things, including a multipoint inspection.
"If you've got something like B13, just look up the items in the OM and have a station do it. No good reason to ignore scheduled maintenance."
I already know what is included in a oil/filter change and a "A" and "B" service, it's all spelled out on their online scheduling website. So I do know what they will do, and they will do more than just change the oil and filter. Just saying you need an oil change doesn't mean they just swap the oil and filter.
"well, an Acura dealer will know what "B13" means and what's called for"
I've actually read the manual and I know what the MM codes mean, and I did not make a general blanket statement about them all, I made a comment about the "A" service vs the "B" service. I didn't say anything about the other codes did I? Of course when the MM gives a "3" code it's probably a good idea to change the Tranny fluid. Same with a "1", rotating the tires, to get even wear. Changin the fluids is something that can physically be done and is monitored by the MM system. Just a quick inspection of components under the car? That doesn't affect how the car operates, like if you change a fluid.
Looking over several items, just like they do during a multipoint/safety inspection, doesn't really seem worth paying them an extra hour labor. "Inspect Exhaust System for damage" and "Inspect Suspension components for damage". Take a look, does it look fine? Yes. Good. "B" service calls for an Inspection, not detailed analysis. Just like a multipoint/safety inspection that they will do with a standard 33.95 oil/filter/lube job.
On second thought I do want to treat my car badly, that's why I'm on this forum asking a question that is a pretty picky detail.
Originally Posted by ak3883
You contradict yourself really bad there, the manual clearly states do NOT change the break in oil earlier than the recommended interval. 2000 miles is WAY earlier than recommended, possibly a third of when the MM would reach 0%.
sorry if i wasn't clear i was entering my post on my phone earlier today. Any ways, what i wanted to say was for the break in do what I said. I do recommend to change your oil in the intervals I stated to (i do mine at 5000 with synthetic) but if you can not financially, or are just too lazy, then doing the recommended intervals stated by Acura or the oil you are using would be fine. My last statement was regarding weekly or bi monthly level checks to even better your engine life no matter what oil change interval you use. Just don't be one of the people who have had a change in 20000 miles or haven't even looked at the dip stick unless the idiot lights come on. Hope that clears up my opinion.
Maintenance Minder is just a guess...don't go by it's guess of oil life. Go with miles.
As for when to change it...it depends on which school of philosophy you identify with. Some will cite metal debris in the oil (although I heard that engines are tested for several hours before they are even loaded into the cars). Others will cite special oil additives. I say, do a compromise and go for somewhere in the middle. I had my dealer change mine at 10% (I would have waited longer, but there was a special oil change deal). Had I done it myself, I would have checked for metal particles (maybe someone else can chime in on this one).
As for when to change it...it depends on which school of philosophy you identify with. Some will cite metal debris in the oil (although I heard that engines are tested for several hours before they are even loaded into the cars). Others will cite special oil additives. I say, do a compromise and go for somewhere in the middle. I had my dealer change mine at 10% (I would have waited longer, but there was a special oil change deal). Had I done it myself, I would have checked for metal particles (maybe someone else can chime in on this one).
Originally Posted by SoCaliTrojan
Maintenance Minder is just a guess...don't go by it's guess of oil life. Go with miles.

The engineers designing the parameters of the maintenance minder have a vested interest in ensuring people do not damage their engines because of a poor calculation by the maintenance minder. Thus, they are very likely to put a LOT of fudge factor in there in case people ignore the MM for a few weeks/months after it gets to 0%. Broken engines = bad press = bad sales = fewer jobs. That is a vested interest. I'd trust the maintenance minder over an arbitrary guess anyday.
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From: Somewhere between 70 and 125 mph
Originally Posted by ak3883
Where to begin...
First off, I have a hard time believing there is a Honda or Acura dealer than doesn't included a multipoint inspection with an oil change. Why wouldn't they, while they are draining the oil and people are working under the car? I don't think that dealer would make much money if they didn't talk to people about their cars' overall condition. They aren't gonna literally just change the oil and filter if you tell them you just want an oil change. They have a standard process that includes several things, including a multipoint inspection.
"If you've got something like B13, just look up the items in the OM and have a station do it. No good reason to ignore scheduled maintenance."
I already know what is included in a oil/filter change and a "A" and "B" service, it's all spelled out on their online scheduling website. So I do know what they will do, and they will do more than just change the oil and filter. Just saying you need an oil change doesn't mean they just swap the oil and filter.
"well, an Acura dealer will know what "B13" means and what's called for"
I've actually read the manual and I know what the MM codes mean, and I did not make a general blanket statement about them all, I made a comment about the "A" service vs the "B" service. I didn't say anything about the other codes did I? Of course when the MM gives a "3" code it's probably a good idea to change the Tranny fluid. Same with a "1", rotating the tires, to get even wear. Changin the fluids is something that can physically be done and is monitored by the MM system. Just a quick inspection of components under the car? That doesn't affect how the car operates, like if you change a fluid.
Looking over several items, just like they do during a multipoint/safety inspection, doesn't really seem worth paying them an extra hour labor. "Inspect Exhaust System for damage" and "Inspect Suspension components for damage". Take a look, does it look fine? Yes. Good. "B" service calls for an Inspection, not detailed analysis. Just like a multipoint/safety inspection that they will do with a standard 33.95 oil/filter/lube job.
On second thought I do want to treat my car badly, that's why I'm on this forum asking a question that is a pretty picky detail.
First off, I have a hard time believing there is a Honda or Acura dealer than doesn't included a multipoint inspection with an oil change. Why wouldn't they, while they are draining the oil and people are working under the car? I don't think that dealer would make much money if they didn't talk to people about their cars' overall condition. They aren't gonna literally just change the oil and filter if you tell them you just want an oil change. They have a standard process that includes several things, including a multipoint inspection.
"If you've got something like B13, just look up the items in the OM and have a station do it. No good reason to ignore scheduled maintenance."
I already know what is included in a oil/filter change and a "A" and "B" service, it's all spelled out on their online scheduling website. So I do know what they will do, and they will do more than just change the oil and filter. Just saying you need an oil change doesn't mean they just swap the oil and filter.
"well, an Acura dealer will know what "B13" means and what's called for"
I've actually read the manual and I know what the MM codes mean, and I did not make a general blanket statement about them all, I made a comment about the "A" service vs the "B" service. I didn't say anything about the other codes did I? Of course when the MM gives a "3" code it's probably a good idea to change the Tranny fluid. Same with a "1", rotating the tires, to get even wear. Changin the fluids is something that can physically be done and is monitored by the MM system. Just a quick inspection of components under the car? That doesn't affect how the car operates, like if you change a fluid.
Looking over several items, just like they do during a multipoint/safety inspection, doesn't really seem worth paying them an extra hour labor. "Inspect Exhaust System for damage" and "Inspect Suspension components for damage". Take a look, does it look fine? Yes. Good. "B" service calls for an Inspection, not detailed analysis. Just like a multipoint/safety inspection that they will do with a standard 33.95 oil/filter/lube job.
On second thought I do want to treat my car badly, that's why I'm on this forum asking a question that is a pretty picky detail.
Maybe I misunderstood what you meant by:
Originally Posted by ak3883
The "standard oil change" includes a multi point inspection anyway. If I go there again I'm not going by codes, just telling them to do an oil change. The codes are for complete morons who have NO clue about car maintenence! But they still are good indicators for time when service is due.
Make a hole, coming thru!
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From: Somewhere between 70 and 125 mph
Originally Posted by SoCaliTrojan
Maintenance Minder is just a guess...don't go by it's guess of oil life. Go with miles.
Originally Posted by 2008 Owners Manual, p.280
Your vehicle displays engine oil life and maintenance service items on the multi-information display to show you when you should have your dealer perform engine oil replacement and indicated maintenance service.
Based on the engine operating conditions and accumulated engine revolutions, the onboard computer in your vehicle calculates the remaining engine oil life and displays it as a percentage.
Based on the engine operating conditions and accumulated engine revolutions, the onboard computer in your vehicle calculates the remaining engine oil life and displays it as a percentage.
BTW, just to show that I can be wrong, and admit it.... The 2008 OM (p.74) states that the MM message for oil change updates to SERVICE DUE NOW when the oil life reaches 5%, and "have your dealer do the indicated maintenance as soon as you see this message." 5% indicates 1%-5% calculated oil life, so that contradicts my assertion that 0% is a good time to change.
Originally Posted by shmork53
so oil in the car when it is brand new there is more metal shavings from rings setting and other parts breaking in. The filter will help remove 99% of this stuff but there is more then a fully broken in engine. Just due this I would not hessitate one bit to do the first oil change early, at no more then 2000 miles. The only thing you have to lose is a little bit of money. Secondly I would not throw synthetic into the engine until after 5000 miles. Reason why, its cheaper and it will hold up for 3000 miles no problem. After the break in then go to synthetic and go 5000-7500 depending on driving habits, any longer then that the oil is just too dirty and there is viscosity breaks down. Then again there is not a lot of research on it that has been published and a lot of this is pure opinion. As long as the oil is changed at least as much as recomended your engine will be fine. You will get lots more damage if you dont check your oil enough and end up running low.
I agree, I have had 6 new cars in my life and ALWAYS changed oil after first 1500-2000 miles. Always afraid of break-in shavings and metal particles .
NEVER had an issue.
Fresh Oil is your cheapest car insurance...
Engines are pretty much broken in at factory, how many "smokers" do you see nowadays? Pretty rare.
Lots of morons out there clueless on engine maintenance probably going 10K between changes.
Unleaded gas has made a HUGE impact, I remember when valve jobs were fairly routine and new points and plugs were a spring ritual
My recently hondated 06 is humming along happily with 45k miles, no oil usage and 26.5 mpg all-around driving. (Lot more heavy foot with Hondata)
It kind of amuses me how much oil gets discussed on this forum, and how precise folks get about it.
I drive 15,000 a year, use Royal Purple, change it every 5K regardless of what the car says. I buy my own, and have Jiffy change it (just because I don't want to fuss with it). It's a $70 deal to get an oil change.
So if I change the oil every 5K, it amounts to $17.50 a month. The last one I changed at 5K, the car said the oil was at 30%. So if I went longer - say to 6K miles, it's ~$14.50 a month. At 7500 miles between changes, it's ~$11.67 a month.
So for all this discussion, debate, science - whatever - it all boils down to the cost of a 16 oz latte per month difference. I drink about 8-10 of those per month.
So my point is this (this is my "latte test", which is surprisingly useful for decision making): if I really want to save $5 a month, I should drink less Starbucks. Why in the world would I short-change my $30,000 luxury sedan over the cost of a latte. If the 5-spot is that big a deal, drink less coffee, preserve the Acura.
I don't know why folks play games with the oil. Buy a good oil. Change it every 5K regardless of what the car says. Everyone I know that's "into cars" says regular oil changes is the best thing you can do for long engine life. Starbucks will understand if you miss them once a month.
I drive 15,000 a year, use Royal Purple, change it every 5K regardless of what the car says. I buy my own, and have Jiffy change it (just because I don't want to fuss with it). It's a $70 deal to get an oil change.
So if I change the oil every 5K, it amounts to $17.50 a month. The last one I changed at 5K, the car said the oil was at 30%. So if I went longer - say to 6K miles, it's ~$14.50 a month. At 7500 miles between changes, it's ~$11.67 a month.
So for all this discussion, debate, science - whatever - it all boils down to the cost of a 16 oz latte per month difference. I drink about 8-10 of those per month.
So my point is this (this is my "latte test", which is surprisingly useful for decision making): if I really want to save $5 a month, I should drink less Starbucks. Why in the world would I short-change my $30,000 luxury sedan over the cost of a latte. If the 5-spot is that big a deal, drink less coffee, preserve the Acura.
I don't know why folks play games with the oil. Buy a good oil. Change it every 5K regardless of what the car says. Everyone I know that's "into cars" says regular oil changes is the best thing you can do for long engine life. Starbucks will understand if you miss them once a month.
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From: Somewhere between 70 and 125 mph
That's the kind of math I like. I use Mobil 1 full synthetic that I buy at Costco, with a coupon, my last two cases were $22 ea. So if AAA charges me the usual $20 labor to change the oil and filter (with a few bucks for the filter), a change is about $35, half yours. Why wait? I last changed at 50 miles short of 48,000 (3/4/2008), and I'm at a few miles shy of 52,000. My MM rates the oil life at 50%. So if the aging is linear (might not be), I could go 8,000 miles on this oil?
$16 a month is nothing, I just spent $20 on Pei Wei takeout for dinner.
I concur, regular oil changes are so cheap and easy (depending on where/how you do it), rarely skimped on my Jeep's dependable I6-258 4.2L engine, and it still purrs.
$16 a month is nothing, I just spent $20 on Pei Wei takeout for dinner. I concur, regular oil changes are so cheap and easy (depending on where/how you do it), rarely skimped on my Jeep's dependable I6-258 4.2L engine, and it still purrs.
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