Car goes to limp mode with bunch of warning indicator lights and MID warnings.

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Old 02-08-2020, 10:57 PM
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Car goes to limp mode with bunch of warning indicator lights and MID warnings.

So as I am driving, my 2015 TLX Tech 2.4 starts popping warning indicator lights and messages that my PAWS, Forward Collision system, VSA, and Lane Departure system have a problem. The car then is limited to 50 mph.

​​​​​​Pulled over. Turned off car. Waited and restarted car. Warnings did not go away. So I limped to the dealership.

This is the second time the dash lights flashed warnings. 1st time it when away after restart and did not go o to limp mode. Dealership troubleshooted it the 1st time as a bad rear actuator for the PAWS.

I have no idea what the problem is this time.



Old 02-12-2020, 10:06 AM
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So it turns out my P-AWS system has failed again. Back on July 2019 my rear actuators where replaced. 7 months later the rear actuators failed again!
According to the dealer, Acura is sending someone to audit the issue since this is an expensive repair.
I suspect that the 1st repair was not right. Well... At least my CPO 2015 TLX is still under warranty.
Old 02-12-2020, 06:27 PM
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Something similar happened to me... the first fix was also replacing the actuators. Same thing happened again 6 months later. See posts 21, 25, 31, and 32 by me in the following thread : https://acurazine.com/forums/5g-tlx-...ailure-931335/
FYI, after the 2nd fix, I haven't seen the problem since, so it's been about 4 years. This doesn't mean the same fix will fix yours, of course, but, who knows.
Old 02-13-2020, 11:41 AM
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@Rocketsfan
Thanks. i assume you still have your TLX. Has it been problem free since than? I'd like to keep mine for 2 to 3 more years since it's paid for but worried about more issues.

Old 02-13-2020, 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by CybrRdr
@Rocketsfan
Thanks. i assume you still have your TLX. Has it been problem free since than? I'd like to keep mine for 2 to 3 more years since it's paid for but worried about more issues.
I wouldn't call it "problem-free". lol. I still seem to have an issue where the battery begins having issues and dying every 1-2 years that nobody seems to be able to figure out. I still get laggy acceleration where I push the gas pedal and the car has to think about moving, although that's much more rare than it was when I first bought the car probably thanks to the numerous software fixes/TSB's. I still have hard shifts, but again, much better than when I first bought the car. The battery and sometimes-laggy acceleration are probably the biggest issues right now. The actuator/whatever may actually cause the limp mode acceleration hasn't returned after the 2nd time it happened. Other than that and the initial issues, the reliability has been ok so far.
Old 02-14-2020, 08:05 PM
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The dealership just told me my battery failed load test and I need a new battery. Dealership was asking $210 for an Acura battery. Considering this battery which replaced my original battery only lasted me 1 yr 8 months I'm gonna see if a different battery will survive longer. Maybe its the Houston heat? Who knows.

Anyways the current issue that cause my car to go I to limp mode was the P-AWS control module.

So in the past year alone I have had the transaxle mount, rear actuators, P-AWS control module replaced.

​​​​​​​Still dealing with 0 to 20 mph hard shifting with popping sound. And a car that eats car batteries.
Old 02-16-2020, 05:21 PM
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As I was driving my car on Sunday the same issues appeared again. Same warning lights. Same limp mode.
So I guess it is not the P-AWS module Frustratedthay was replaced. Bringing car back on Monday.
Old 02-17-2020, 07:41 AM
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I can't offer much to help. There were TSBs about clunking noises and 8DCT shift quality. You can ask dealer to make sure they performed these.
http://www.urvi.net/forumfiles/SB/B15-006.PDF
http://www.urvi.net/forumfiles/SB/B15-021.PDF
http://www.urvi.net/forumfiles/SB/B17-015.PDF

Your situation is so unfortunate. At least you can afford the time off work or however you get back to the dealer so often. It's amazing they let you drive away without properly fixing your problem. My dealer had the same nonchalant attitude. Eventually, I realized I was driving a bad car and was concerned every time I hit the start button that it would fail to get me to my destination. It's hard to trust a vehicle like ours after so many issues.

The concept of having to perform a cost-benefit analysis of keeping (a fully paid off) or ditching a vehicle due to problems is totally foreign to Acura owners. I mean, I thought I was buying an Acura, not a Jaguar.

Last edited by someguy11; 02-17-2020 at 07:46 AM.
Old 02-18-2020, 07:16 PM
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@CybrRdr, sorry to hear about your problems. Several people have posted having to make multiple visits for this or having the "fireworks display" go off for multiple things during their ownership, so the best shot you have is the dealership at diagnosing it. We can only guess or offer "what fixed it for us" advice.

With regards to the battery : my first battery obviously was an "Acura" battery and it was replaced within 2-2.5 years, I think, but was exhibiting issues before that. My 2nd battery was an Interstate battery from NTB, and it lasted about 1.5 years (? I'd have to check). It (luckily) died in my parents' driveway in Houston where I drove from my house in Dallas. I had just gotten there and parked. When I attempted to restart it, it wouldn't start. Luckily it jumped. The dealership still had problems determining the battery was bad until they started having starting issues with it, too. So now I'm on my 3rd battery, which I got from that Houston dealership, and after about 8 months, is having starting issues again. lol. So now 3 batteries in about 5.5 years, with a 4th one probably coming in the next 6 months or so. Hopefully this isn't what's happening to you.
Old 02-28-2020, 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Rocketsfan
@CybrRdr, sorry to hear about your problems. Several people have posted having to make multiple visits for this or having the "fireworks display" go off for multiple things during their ownership, so the best shot you have is the dealership at diagnosing it. We can only guess or offer "what fixed it for us" advice.

With regards to the battery : my first battery obviously was an "Acura" battery and it was replaced within 2-2.5 years, I think, but was exhibiting issues before that. My 2nd battery was an Interstate battery from NTB, and it lasted about 1.5 years (? I'd have to check). It (luckily) died in my parents' driveway in Houston where I drove from my house in Dallas. I had just gotten there and parked. When I attempted to restart it, it wouldn't start. Luckily it jumped. The dealership still had problems determining the battery was bad until they started having starting issues with it, too. So now I'm on my 3rd battery, which I got from that Houston dealership, and after about 8 months, is having starting issues again. lol. So now 3 batteries in about 5.5 years, with a 4th one probably coming in the next 6 months or so. Hopefully this isn't what's happening to you.
So after taking it back to the my local Houston dealership near Katy. I was told the my car had 2 issues the P-AWS Module (which they replaced) and the Rear Actuators (again). Since the car still under warranty, Acura only approved the P-AWS module repair. What?! Why wasn't this information not relayed to me? Anyways, they then replaced the rear actuators again. It been about 2 weeks and so far no more flashing lights. Hope the issue is resolved for good. I think I will have to get rid of the car before my powertrain warranty expires though.

So for my 3rd battery in 5 years I bought an Interstate MTP with a higher CCA. I thought about getting an AGM battery type but they are pricey and I plan to sell the car within 2 years so a regular flooded acid battery will do.

This TLX has been so problematic I may leave Honda/Acura for the 1st time ever.
Old 03-05-2020, 01:45 PM
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@CybrRdr Out of curiosity, do you have anything plugged into your USB ports all the time? I had a small USB drive filled with music in there, but the power-draw should be so small, I wouldn't think that would cause a battery drain this quickly, but I'm no expert.
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