I have a 1998 Acura 3.2 TL
I got a CIL code for a blocked EGR. So, following the guide I found on one of the Acura forums I took off the manifold and completely cleaned it along with the EGR tube.

I put everything back together using new gaskets.

Now the engine doesn't run smoothly at start up and the RPMs bounce up and down and it may even shut off.
If I rev the engine a bit until it's warmer, the idle settles down and stays at about 600-700 (right between the 1k and 500 lines)

If I rev the engine at this point, at about 2500 rpm, the engine starts to run more roughly. But not that bad.
However, as soon as it hits 4k RPM, it drops back immediately to 3k RPM.
If I try to keep it at 4k rpm, the RPMs just keep bouncing between 3k and 4k rpm.

After I ran into this problem, I went ahead and put 1/3 can of Sea Foam into the PCV, gas, and oil.
There was a lot of smoke at first but that's cleared out. But it didn't seem to make a difference.

The code I'm getting is p0505.
I took the throttle body back off and cleaned it some more, making sure all passages were clear.
I also took off the IAC valve and cleaned that out as best I could with carburetor cleaner.

So to sum up. I can't go over 4k rpm without it bouncing back and forth from 3k to 4k.
The engine runs a bit rough and the idle bounces around a little bit until the engine warms up.

Any suggestions?
thanks,
Todd

 

Check that the yellow piece isn't loose. Sometimes it's held on by dirt, and if you clean it off, it will unscrew. If it is, gently tighten it then give it another go.

~Cheers~

 

I'm sorry, you've lost me.
What yellow piece?

 

Still having problems. The idle sorts itself out pretty quickly but I still can't get over 4k rpms.

Anyone?

 

Sorry, forgot my 3.5 was a little different. Double check the vacuum ports on the back left side of the manifold. Maybe when the manifold was put back on the lines were switched. I know that during my swap, someone helped me put the lines as they would've been on the 3.2, but it ended up having similar issues. Difference being my idle was at 3000RPM, haha. A quick tracing and I sorted everything in one go.

~Cheers~

 

you need a new IDLE AIR CONTROL. That's what it is......trust. The little motor isn't working properly. I went to the junkyard over here in Cali and got one off a 93 acura legend coupe.....including the type 2 manifold haha.....mine pushes air immensly and idles guuuud. You need to if so because that part is very very pricey!

 

Airflow sensor maybe?

 

Thank you all for your replies.

I was afraid things wouldn't get put back together correctly so I labeled as best I could as well as took lots of pictures.
I just checked all that again and it appears that everything is where is should be.

While I do still have a bit of an idle fluctuation at start up it settles down pretty quickly and I can deal with that.
I did spray it thoroughly with carb cleaner after I discovered the problem but it didn't change anything.

Would the IACV affect rpms above 3000? I would have thought it only affected idle.

Is there a specific name for the airflow sensor you mentioned? A quick search through the service manual didn't come up with anything.

At about 4000 rpms the throttle body is pretty much open. If I block the intake airflow somewhat, the problem goes away.
Maybe an air/fuel mixture problem of some sort?
I did change the fuel filter but I wouldn't think that would make a difference.

I'm also not sure now what codes I'm getting. Before today if was 5 short flashes then a long pause then 5 short flashes and so on.
Now I'm getting 1 long flash, pause, 1 long flash, 4 short flashes, pause 5 short flashes, then it seems to repeat.

I'll take it to the local FLAPS tomorrow and actually use a code scanner.

Thanks again
-Todd

 

If you have an intake, not stock or actually even stock but if its an intake or cold air intake it is going to suck in 5 times more air so therefore your idle air control won't be able to keep up with it especially if it has a lot of miles on it, but if it is new or hasnt been used consitently used a lot it will work. When I put my cold air intake it started to occur, but took some to for the idle to go out of control. I went to the junkyard and got me one off of a poor 45k legend there, so sad, but it flows and the rmpm stay just a tadddd bit under 1000. I' am a certified mechanic and I'm just letting you know it will surely be your idle air control unit, the one that has a black cylinder shape part on it with two coolant hoses connected to the top and one underneath, also has two 12mm long bolts that are connected to the side of the throttle body.......if anything I dont know if you cleaned the screen on it, but that could possibly be the problem, but I'm confident it will be the idle air control unit........let me know

 

sorry, two 10mm bolts***

 

oh yes and that code your getting......is P0505......On my snap on code reader it labeled it as, Idle air control malfunction. led me right to it.

 

Thanks for all the replies.
I took the car to O'Reilly to borrow their scan tool. Apparently the blink codes don't work how I thought. Five fast blinks isn't p0505.

The code I code from the scan tool is P0106 Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor.
According to the service manual, if there's not a vacuum leak, then the pressure should be 11.8 in.Hg or less.
The scan tool showed mine at 28.3 in.Hg which is just about atmospheric pressure.

I would check if there's a leak but I have no idea where this sensor is even after a lot of Google. I found a picture of it on an auto parts website but I can't find anything that looks like that.

Can someone point me in the correct direction?

Thanks
Todd

 

Ok, in the spirit of this cartoon: http://xkcd.com/979/ (make sure you hover your mouse over the picture to see the Alt text), this is for the people in the future who might find this post.

This is on a 1998 Acura 3.2 TL
Everything is fixed and working. Here's what I found out and did.

This all started with with a DTC P0401 Insufficient EGR flow.
I followed these guides to clean it out. Holy crap that was a lot of gunk!
http:///forums/f40/diy-egr-intake-ma...leaning-68465/
http://www.acura-legend.com/vbulleti...al-pics-68912/

I got everything cleaned out and put back together with new gaskets.
Got the gaskets here. About half the price of my local dealer.
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/jsp/home.jsp

I started the car and the idle was not happy but it was more or less fine after the car got up to operating temp.
However, I was unable to get the engine over 4000 rpms. It would hit 4k then cut out until it dropped down to 3000 rpms. It would then bounce back and forth between 3k and 4k.

I was also getting another code(s).
On one of the Acura forums I found that you could read the DTC code by shorting the service connector underneath the glove box and the light would flash. A long blink for the 10 digit and a short flash for the 1 digit.
This is incorrect and led me to think I had code p0505 (5 short flashes pause 5 short flashes).

After messing around with the IAC valve, I finally took it to O'Reilly's to borrow their code reader.

The engine was still cold when I got there and the code I got was P0113, Intake Air Temperature Circuit High Input. This sensor is on the top of the main manifold chamber just behind and to the right (driver's side) of the throttle body. Attached with two Phillips head bolts.

I took the negative cable off the battery to clear the codes and tried again.
This time the car was up to temperature and I didn't get P0113 anymore, instead I got P0106 which is the Manifold Absolute Pressure Circuit.

According to the '96-'97 3.2 supp service manual (pg 11-57), the first step is to see if there's any vacuum leak between the MAP sensor and the Throttle Body.
That's great but for the life of me I couldn't figure out where this sensor was. I searched this forum and others and Googled to no avail.

As it turns out, the sensor is not directly connected to the Throttle body. Instead it's connected by a rubber vacuum hose to a metal pipe. The actual sensor is in the control box that's bolted to the firewall on the passenger side and is connected to the Throttle Body by vacuum hose number 21.

Later I found a diagram of the Control Box on page 11-9 of the '95-'98 2.5 TL Service Manual which shows the MAP sensor.

When I finally found it, I realized what the problem was. When I removed the 21 vacuum hose from the throttle body, I tore it so I replaced it with new hose.
Unfortunately, it turns out it wasn't as nearly a tight enough fit and was letting air in.

I replaced the hose and for good measure I took off the IAT Sensor and cleaned it.

The car started up, no codes and everything acted normally.
Hurray!

Now I just need a/c and a new windshield and she'll be good as new.

I hope this helps someone else.
-Todd

 

Sorry, that second link for the EGR cleaning should be:
http:///forums/f40/diy-egr-intake-ma...leaning-68465/

 

Ok, I don't know why the third "/" is being added, so just copy/paste it. Or highlight it, right-click and select "Open in New Tab".

/forums/f40/diy-egr-intake-manifold-cleaning-68465/

 

/forums/f40/diy-egr-intake-manifold-cleaning-68465/

 

/forums/f40/diy-egr-intake-manifold-cleaning-68465

 

Ok, for some reason it's cutting off the first part of the URL.
Is there no way to edit these posts?

/forums/f40/diy-egr-intake-manifold-cleaning-68465

 

Put in front of that URL

 

Hmm... I guess it doesn't like the first part.

www com

 

ok...
w w w dot a c u r a w o r l d dot c o m