Hello all,

My 96 tl 2.5 had a CEL come on and the code was P0104, which is something wrong with the EGR. I checked and cleaned EGR and everything looked fine. the only problem i found was when car was on there was no suction coming from the hose that connects to the EGR. I was wondering was could cause there to be no suction because all the other vacuum hoses had suction. also, all the hoses looked to be in fine condition and no dry rot.

thanks,
todd

 

could something be wrong with the Vapor Canister Purge Valve or PCV valve? Just throwing it out there

-todd

 

FIXED IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

After running all new vacuum lines, cleaning EGR with carb cleaner, checked EGR Switching Solenoid Valve against 12volt, and then decided it must be electrical, so I took apart connecting wiring harness from EGR S.S.V and also removed and replaced ECU fuses. BOOM. No CEL

Replacing PVC valve and flushing coolant tomorrow

Already Done,
-Trunk Sealed from leaks
- Flushed Tranny w/ new filter and gasket
-new fuel filter
-replace bad O2 sensor
-new upper radiator hose because of replacing fan motor
-repainted front and rear bumper
-Flushed and replaced differential fluid
-new K&N air filter

None of that would have been possible without this website and all the fine help i have received and all the helpful DIYs.

THANK YOU ALL, i will of post pics of her when i figure out these damn dimension settings. 220,000miles and this car feels amazing now

 

Todd, I have a 1996 2.5TL with 180K on it...I'm the original owner.

Mine just developed the same scenario - P0104, EGR valve is clean and functions, no carbon in the ports, and no vacuum present in the hose. Can you point to me to pictures or something that will show me where the EGR Switching Solenoid, the wiring harness from EGR S.S.V and the ECU fuses are?

 

Hey I got an engine light took it and had egr code readings. Now I'm far from handy with fixing cars but I'm curious as to to where the EGR is located...I have a 98 Acura TL 2.5 and right now I'm about to change my fuel filter but if the EGR was a relatively easy fix I might tackle it. My car seems to idle to high and sometimes it "kicks" when I give it some gas, so I'm still trying to figure out whats wrong

 

I don't know about the '98, but on the '96 2.5TL the EGR valve is right in the top rear middle under the hood, and sticks right up there where you can remove it fairly easily. The only difficult aspect is the amount of space above the nuts, which kid of makes it difficult to get a wrench socket to sit on it perfectly, which had me a little scared about rounding the corners of the nuts, because I had to really torque on them to get them loosened.

Here is what it looks like:
[IMG]file:///C:/Users/odstore/AppData/Local/Temp/msohtmlclip1/01/clip_image001.gif[/IMG]http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/details/QQAcuraQQTLQQStandardQQEGR_ValveQQ19961998QQSIEGV1 020.html

 

PPORTO,

I am on vacation at the moment, so not pics till next week. on my 96 2.5 i cleaned egr and CEL light was still on and no suction after pulled "back-up radio" fuse to restart computer. then replaced all vacuum lines and still no suction. then opened and re-wired EGR S.S.V. Harness, and then reset computer again, then no CEL. BOOOOM. there was my problem.

There are two harnesses next to each other and pretty much right on top of the Fuel Filter by the fire wall. One is green and one is Blue. The Blue harness is the EGR S.S.V. wiring harness. If this is your case, then you must follow the problem like i did to finally figure out it was an electrical issue and not a mechanical.

Good Luck and i will come back on later if you have more questions

 

OK, here is where we ended on this. I checked the valve, the ports underneath it, the vacuum tube, and the fuses, and all were fine. I put WD40 in the wiring harness and worked it back and forth. Still no vacuum in the tube.

So I took it in to be looked at. Apparently, from the large pile of carbon they showed me when I went to pick it up, the ports or whatever in this other thing attached to the exhaust system were very clogged. Fortunately this thing sits right atop the engine also, on the right-hand side as you look into it.

So it cost me four hours in labor and a $35 "computer" charge. I was totally happy with that.

I am satisfied that my work, based on the advice I received here, saved me some serious cash because I was able to avoid needless replacement of parts.

One thing I did learn was that the vacuum doesn't necesarily kick in at 2000 rpm; according to the mechanic that fixed mine, it depends on more than just that.

 

dont forget some vac lines can be on switched vac and may not run vac all the time.