Hey everyone. I just bought a 96 3.2tl "premium"
Every other time i start the car, the ABS light comes on.
When it starts, i can hear the abs unit energize "ZZZZ" for a few seconds, wether the light stays on or not. Sometimes the sound comes while i'm driving it, too.
Any ideas? The brakes seem ok, although one of the rotors are warped.
So far i love the car, especially after driving my 89 thunderbird. now i know why so many people like Acura!

 

I have this same problem. Its the modulator going out for the ABS. It's something like $2000 to fix at a dealer. Next time you get ice or snow, check to see if you have traction control and see if your brakes just lock.

Despite my modulator dying right now, I still have TCS and ABS. ABS light is always on. When I turn on the car with the brake on, the pedal immediately pushes back at me with the first "ZZZZ" sound. It'll also make that noise for about three minutes.

So long as your brakes work, don't worry about it.

 

I heard that its just a cheap o-ring at the base of the ABS motor or something. The light was on when i test drove it, and the brakes will lock up.
the tires will spin too, but when they do, the TCS light comes on. idk if thats normal. the tires are brand new, so i dont want to go trying this out too much! lol

 

Get ABS code (when light is On) and I'll try to help w/ problem. Used modulators are readily available for <$100. Easy installation. No need to put up w/ aggravating ABS light.

good luck

 

How do I get the abs codes? will an obd2 scanner do it? I work at a parts store, so I can borrow the one at work.

 

^I think you will need to see dealer for that..

 

Texas Honda told me how to do it. You don't use the scan tool. There's a 2 pin blue connector connected to a dummy connector on the floor under the glove box. Separate the connectors and short the connections on the dangling connector with a paper clip. Put the key in and turn it on but not starting the car. When the ABS warning light comes on it'll stay on for a good long time, then it'll flash a shorter time then a very short time. You count the longish flashes and then the short flashes. 4 longs flashes and 8 shorts equals code 48 or 4-8. It'll repeat the codes or even give another one if more than one is stored. We can tell you what the codes indicate, but TH is the go to guy on that. Good luck. Don't drive the car with the clip on cause it'll light all kinds of warnings like check engine, ABS, and SRS.

 

Sweet! i'll have to give it a shot. I'm about to go change my diff fluid anyway. Thanks!

 

Hi everyone -

I have a similar problem with my 1996 3.2 TL. The ABS light comes on intermittently. I scanned the code as explained above and I am getting a code 1-8 which is rather common I believe. The ABS tank is full so I assume there is not any brake fluid leakage. Does anyone have any suggestions for me?

Thanks in advance.

Oz

 

Code 1-8 has following potential faults:

• Accumulator gas leakage
• Changed relief valve set pressure
• Rear outlet solenoid valve late to close
• Changed pressure switch set pressure

I don't think any of these problems are repairable. Only thing I've ever managed to repair on one of these are leaks. If you see evidence of brake fluid leakage, it might be worth trying to install new accumulator oring or tighten many (10?) body plugs (there's a TSB on this I believe). I found used modulators available in the $50-$100 range from car-part.com. Look near your zip code, call to confirm availability, go by to inspect and pick a good looking unit. Get a 30-day warranty in case you pull a dud. I've done this a couple of times on Acura CL and Accord (very similar modulator).

good luck

 

Thanks a lot for the immediate reply! I was just hoping for a sensor or something like that

Just a few more questions Do they usually sell these modulators along with the accumulator at these auto salvage places, I mean the whole assembly? And how hard is it to DIY? How many hours of labor a mechanic usually charge to replace one of these?

Oz

 

Yes, the modulator should complete. They usually cut the tubing lines w/ dikes and pinch the tubes to keep dirt out.

It's an easy replacement. You need a flare tubing wrench to break the tubing nuts which can be very tight. I've replaced one in less than an hour. You need to bleed the brakes in traditional manner afterwards. I've never had to bleed the ABS system itself. Anything over 1.5 hrs labor from a shop is robbery IMO.

good luck

 

I bought a used unit from Car Parts and it looks pretty nice. I confess that I've been too busy to install it and any guarantee will probably expire before I do. They even removed the tubes completely. I think I paid about $85 shipped for mine.

 

OK, I got around to swapping out my modulator assembly today. My old (80 year old) former farmer friend down the street had tightened the mounting nuts and the hydraulic tubes farm tight and I had a hard time loosening them and have the bloody hands to prove it. One of the tube nuts had been rounded somewhat (by me) the last time I tried to fix it. I finally got it off with a vise grip, but it ain't pretty. I moved some kind of vacuum box out of the way to get better access. When I got it all back together, I had a TCS and CEL. I checked it out and had left off one of the connectors on the vac box. Now I only have the CEL and consider that good since I know the engine is fine. At least it appears that the ABS/TCS is working but I could care less as long as the damned light is off. I'll figure out the CEL problem or maybe not? I do have a code reader to use when I get around to it.

 

Thanks a lot everyone for the information. I am trying to locate one through car-part.com and will probably find a shop that can do the job for me too. I don't have the tools or the garage to do it myself in this cold winter. Thanks anyways.

 

I found the code reader and read the code. It was P0108, MAP (manifold absolute pressure, high input). I guess it had something to do with the box that the vacuum lines went into? Anyhow, I cleared it and it's happy now. Wow, no damned warnings on the dash. Now to get the cruise working. The dash indicator lights up, but I can't seem to get it to work yet. I guess that's a problem for another day.

 

Will this procedure work on an Acura TL Type-s 2003 (2nd generation)? I have the VSA and ABS light on as well but none of the parts store's scanners would pick anything up!!!

Thanks

 

You need to post your question in the 2g Tl section.

 

That buzzzzing sound is normal.

There should be two buzzies. One at start up and another after takeoff.

That noise is the ABS doing a self diagnosis / Test.