98 tl 3.2 reat caliper removal help

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Old Aug 31, 2021 | 09:51 AM
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98 tl 3.2 reat caliper removal help


hopefully someone has some experience with these, basically just trying to pop the old ones off to out the new ones on, this screw looking bolt(top left) at the end of the brake line is all thats stopping me.

any tips on removal would be appreciated(i guess it might come out of factory with locktite on in which case semi aggressive torching?)

other options drilling/tapping out?
my dad and i had the same thought that maybe the caliper can be seperated into two pieces and i could leave the swiveling piece there

(basically the chunk under the spring)

in event that it does get drilled/destroyed during removal if anyone has a part number or size etc on this thing that would be amazing(if it helps its probably like 1-1.5 inches long and has a cotter pin on the underside)
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Old Aug 31, 2021 | 10:49 AM
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what I would do is take a box end wrench and tap it on over the bolt. you would want a smaller sized and use the circle end(i dont know what that end is called - the 12 sided side) since the head is rusted, it will be very soft and will be able to conform to a wrench.

this way you would have more leverage than a screw driver.

then take the palm of your hand and hit the end of the wrench, "impacting" it off.


or keep working it with a screw driver.... applying torque in small bits as best you can.. working it back and forth.
Flat head screws and screw drivers are the devil...


it wont surprise me if you break the head off the screw...as it seems really rusty. just go slow and take your time.

Last edited by justnspace; Aug 31, 2021 at 10:53 AM.
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Old Aug 31, 2021 | 11:42 AM
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or perhaps it's not a screw at all and just a pin??? lol

have you tried tapping it out from the bottom?
or can you see the threads from the bottom?

if you can see the threads, then it's a screw
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Old Aug 31, 2021 | 12:55 PM
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i can feel abrasion after giving em a light torching, hit em with a bunch of penetrating oil/rust remover and flamed em a bit, its still a bit thick though. definitely on the soft side, i tried to dremel one side to make it deeper but it seems to not like screw drivers(soft)
maybe if i could find a flat head wide enough itd hold up better

yeah i tried hitting it with a hammer on the flip side, youd think it wouldnt be threaded with the cotter and the locktite
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Old Aug 31, 2021 | 01:20 PM
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take a pic from underneath it! show the cotter pin!
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Old Aug 31, 2021 | 01:21 PM
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I can't quite figure out what part it is...


but the cotter pin and the replacement caliper lead me to believe its not threaded...meaning you can probably tap it out from the bottom.
If you look at the replacement caliper, the hole isnt threaded...
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Old Aug 31, 2021 | 01:27 PM
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even if it is threaded; the surface area would be very small...meaning you would only have to over come a few threads....... take some pliers from the bottom and twist
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Old Aug 31, 2021 | 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by justnspace


I can't quite figure out what part it is...


but the cotter pin and the replacement caliper lead me to believe its not threaded...meaning you can probably tap it out from the bottom.
If you look at the replacement caliper, the hole isnt threaded...
its the piece that swivels, id guess any threading is just to stop the bolt from shaking out


im gonna go beat it up a litte
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Old Aug 31, 2021 | 10:12 PM
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gosh that didnt take long, maybe it was all the oiling :p

braced it good and a few good whacks and movement

Cheers for the second opinions everyone
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Old Sep 1, 2021 | 07:12 AM
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well done!
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