blott

New to the forum and this is my first posting. Here is my story and I feel like a such a schmuck right about now. I just bought this '95 2.5L TL with 120K miles for my son to drive. He is a new driver and I wanted a car with ABS. The ABS light was on when I test drove it . Well I didn't pay much attention to it and bought the car because the price was fair ($4,390). Well, this morning I took it to the Acura dealer and they just called and said that it need a new ABS modulator. The cost for the part would be $2,700. I about #$*%!!!

So I find a used ABS modulator on eBay for $150. My question is how hard are these to replace? Has anyone done this and have any good advice for me? Is buying a used modulator on eBay a good idea?

Thanks....

Ben

carpenterty

Hey, looks like know one responds around here!!!!

This is the best i can do for you, here is a diagram, and instructions doesnt look to hard but you will have to bleed the system. Follow the link for the diagram.

http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/g.../absmodule.gif


CAUTION:


Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid does contact the paint, wash it off immediately with water.
Take care not to damage or deform the brake lines during removal and installation.
To prevent the brake fluid from flowing, plug and cover the hose ends and joints with a shop towel or equivalent material.
NOTE: Tighten the flare nuts to 15 Nm (1.5 kgf.m, 11 ft. lbs.) .

REMOVAL


Disconnect the modulator unit 10P and pump motor 2P connectors.
Remove the proportioning control valve.
Disconnect the brake lines, then remove the modulator unit.
INSTALLATION


Install the modulator unit, then connect the brake lines.
Install the proportioning control valve.
Connect the modulator unit 10P and pump motor 2P connectors.
Bleed the brake system, starting with the front wheels.
Start the engine, and check that the ABS indicator light goes off.
Test-drive the vehicle, and check that the ABS indicator light does not come on.
Copyright © 2008 ALLDATA LLC

blott

Thanks for the guidance and picture. If I decide to move foreward with this I will let you know how it goes.

TexasHonda

Purchase a set of flare tubing wrenches to loosen the flare nuts. An ordinary open end (10mm) is very likley to round the nut. Other than this caution, it's an easy job. Release the tubing guides to provide flexibility to pull the tubes out of the way.

What was your ABS code? Sometimes the problem is not the modulator but a relay, etc.

good luck

blott

The code was 18.

TexasHonda

Good News!

Code 18 is LR wheel sensor fault. Try pulling the sensor and cleaning the sensor. Then before reinstalling stuff a rag into the sensor hole in the wheel knuckle and rotate the wheel. This will clean the rotor ring (pulser gear) lugs that the sensor senses to determine wheel speed. Sometimes this will fix the wheel sensor. Also use a light and inspect pulser gear to make sure it is not damaged (missing lug or other fault).

This code indicates noise in the circuit, which could be a wiring fault, dirty connection, damage pulser gear, or faulty sensor.

If you don't see any wiring faults and connection is sound, then replace sensor and see if ABS code returns. A used sensor from a salvage yard will be best bet. Try using car-part.com to find a donor car and ask for the LR wheel sensor.

good luck

blott

TexasHonda,

Thanks but I am now more confused. The Acura dealer reported a fault code 18 as a failing ABS modulator and somewhere off the web I pulled ABS fault codes (Hondas) and an 18 was the ABS pressure accumulator. According to where I got the fault codes a 48 is left wheel sensor, not 18.

Maybe I have the wrong fault codes. Is there web address where I could get the fault codes you have?

Thanks for your troubles. I really appreciate the response.

TexasHonda

I checked my 95-98 2.5TL Manual. I'll check again tonight. Different vehicles have different ABS codes. Do a search for 2.5TL manual. I believe there was a download for this recently (late 2007).

regards

TexasHonda

My mistake. I used the 97-98 ABS code info instead of 95-96 ABS code info. Both are in the manual and I didn't pick up on this.

Code 18 is High Pressure System fault; Accumulator gas leakage, Changed relief valve set pressure, Rear outlet solenoid valve late to close, changed pressure switch set pressure.

Of the above possibilities, only the accumulator is a truly replaceable part (manual indicates replacement is possible). If your ABS light is intermittent, this may be the problem. A used modulator will probably cost less than a new accumulator from Acura. You can crack the relief plug and if no charge, then accumulator has leaked down. You could potentially swap the accumulator from used modulator to existing. It's an easy swap (2-bolts), but probably requires removing the modulator to perform the swap. I would start w/ swapping the modulators. If that works, you're home and dry. If you still have problems (bad replacement modulator), then try swapping the accumulators from replacement unit to existing modulator.

I had to swap the drive motor from in-place non-working modulator to a replacement used modulator on my daughters 97 Acura 2.2CL to get a working unit. Old one had an internal valve leak, and replacement had a bad motor. If you check around your location w/ car-part.com, you may be able to find a local part.

good luck

blott

Ok here is another piece of the puzzle. The parking brake is also illuminated. I read in the technical manual that if the parking brake is engaged for more than 30 seconds it will shut down the ABS system. I am thinking that maybe my problem is as simple as checking out and fixing the parking brake issue.

I don't feel any drag like the parking brake is engaged. Any ideas what causes the parking brake light to stay light?

Thanks again...

TexasHonda

Disconnect two wires going to the brake fluid reservoir cap. If this causes the parking brake light to go Off, then a new cap may fix the problem. Cap float may be soaked or stuck.

There is a fix to notch the sides of the brake fluid reservoir, inset screen to prevent a vacuum lock from forming which has caused this problem on some Hondas and Acuras.

If above doesn't fix the Parking brake light, the parking brake position switch may be stuck closed, damage, or mispositioned.

It's possible above has an impact on ABS, but I don't know for sure.

good luck

blott

I disconnected the wires and started the car. The brake light did not come on nor did the ABS light. What do those wires do? Can you drive the car without those wires connected?

After I reconnected them, I drove the car to work. During the ride in the brake lamp light came on. Could that have something to do with me disconnected and reconnecting the two wires?

Thanks for all your tips. This is great stuff!!

blott

Well it turned out the brake light was a simple function of the brake fluid being low. I added about 1/4" in the reservior and the brake light went off. But something has caused the "brake lamp" to now illuminate and also when I depress the brake pedal I hear a clicking noise coming from almost behind the radio.

So we fixed the brake light issue, the ABS light is still on and now we have added another variable with the brake lamp coming on and the clicking noise when the brake pedal is depressed.

So I am thinking this confirms that the ABS modulator is bad and I will probably need to replace it. But the brake lamp issue and noise now has me stumped.

Any ideas what to look at now?

TexasHonda

The brake lamp issue and ABS are not related IMO.

The fix for the brake lamp may be to place an oval notch on opposite sides of the insert screen inside the reservoir. In some manner the thin base flap can form a seal which holds the fluid level down and causes the lamp to illuminate when system is cold. The reed switch in the float assy could also be bad.

The ABS has relays which may open when ABS light comes On. This is probably "click" you hear. If you'll check again, I think you'll find same Code 18 is back. Did you check the accumulator for charge? A used modulator is likely the easiest fix.

good luck

blott

You are correct, the brake lamp and ABS light were unrelated.

The left brake lamp was burnt out so I just replaced both brake lights and the brake lamp light now does not come on.

The brake light is also now fixed. Just added brake fluid and that took care of that problem.

The only issue now is that the ABS light sometimes comes on now and sometimes does not (prior to adding the brake fluid the ABS light stayed on constantly). When the light does not come on I test the ABS and it kicks in when breaking hard at 25 MPH. When the ABS light comes on the ABS does not work. What would cause the ABS to sometimes work and sometimes not work?

I have not checked the ABS code since the dealership performed that for me. I should probably do that to see if I am still getting a code 18.

TexasHonda

The ABS controller has a number of internal checks to determine if system is working correctly. When a check fails, the ABS is disabled. The problem may not entirely disable the ABS, but could cause problems in an emergency.

If you have not tried to download the Acura Shop Manual (see recent posts on this subject), I would highly recommend. Trying to diagnose an ABS problem w/o the shop manual is impossible.

The code/s provide pretty much the only clue to the fault. However, some of the faults (leaking internval valves for instance) are not repairable and a replacement modulator is only practical fix. I had a 94-97 Accord modulator w/ an "internal valve leak". I figured I could disassemble, find the tiny piece of trash causing the problem, and reassemble. Long story short is the modulator is not made for back yard tinkering, and I threw in the towel and bought a used modulator.

good luck

blott

The ABS code is still coming back at 18. I think my best bet is to buy a used modulator and replace.