i finally got my front speakers installed. well, i finally got my fronter speakers, then i decided to get ballsy and do it outside with little daylight left. for all of those that live where it's cold, that's a bad idea sans gloves. even rounded parts start to scratch and hurt lol.

i must say i am totally impressed with the ease of the door panel removal and installation. everything, except the speaker wire, was a good length and easy to deal with. i changed both sides in a matter of minutes. well, i had to make some modifications to the door (as per holes) to make the speaker fit, but that was no biggie. when i install my amps, etc. i'll probably redo it a bit, since i was kind of in a hurry. but they work, sound good, and are so much better than the 15 watt turds that came out. and now i have a pass. side front speaker that even works! so new infinity reference (sorry, perfects too much for me at this time) series all the way around. i'm impressed with the tidbit of testing i did with them. i hope the wires stay on since all i had were the big female spades and had to make them work for the negative connector. like i said though, when i redo, i'll do it much nicer. but it should work for now.


to all of you who have posted tutorials on removal, etc.....thanks! it took minutes instead of hours to do.

 

you know what we want... pictures nigga!

 

ha. well i'll try to snap a few of the old stuff that came out (yuck!). but i can't really take pics of in the install, etc. HOWEVER, i will take some of the door panel coming off and back on when it's nicer out and more light. they coming soon......dem pics.

 

is the door panel really that easy to remove? cause im contemplating on lubing up my windows cause they move to SLOW!!

 

all you need is a small straight screwdriver (or prying device), a philips screwdriver and a place to put the door panel. you take out two screws, pop off the tabs and that's it. oh, don't forget to disconnect the auto stuff (locks, windows, bottom light...then plug em back in...i forgot light once hehe). like i said.....i'm very impressed that it was that easy.

i am going to have to 'dynomat' the area around the speaker...again...when it's nice here (should be forever.....boo Iowa lol)

 

Yeah, they're real easy to remove... I did the window lube thing. The first door I took toof (front, passenger) took me less than 10 minutes. The driver side door takes a bit more time as you have more stuff to disconnect/reconnect.

BTW, what kind of speakers (model number and size) have been installed? I am going to replace my front speakers as well. The 6*9s kick a$$ but the door speakers suck.

 

i bought infinity reference series 6002i 6.5" two ways. they rock...and have a tweeter that can be swivled. that's a nice feature. i got em for like 65 on ebay....just gotta check around.

 

Did they fit with the door speaker cover (the clothed part that conseals/protects the door speapers)? Or did you have to remove the speaker cover.

BTW, do those things provide good bass? The stock door speakers suck... They can barely handle mids.

I don't know if my HU can support them though... It only outputs 52 watts and these speakers are 60 watts.

 

60 watt speakers is the MAXIMUM they can handle. The deck will still power them. It IS better to have an amp with MORE power than the speakers can handle simply because it doesn't have to work as hard to power the speakers, but that's a hole long discussion and I gotta get up to drive mom and dad to the airport at 6:00 am. I'm going to bed!! :P lol

 

well actually, hehe.....here is a very short cap on this:

the speakers fit, but you have to drill new holes, cuz the stock mounts don't fit these particular speakers.

as far as their rating. their max is 180 watts (which is not really important), but 60 watts RMS, which is basically the constant amount of power they can handle to sound their best. your HU will power them just fine like any other speaker. putting an amp in the mix is fine. but having a huge amp on a small speaker isn't the right thing to do. you want an amp that is right for the speaker and vice versa. for instance, the amp i'm going to put on these will be 50 watts to each speaker, constant. so it's very close to the specs of the speaker. that is good.

i suggest you check out the audio part of the forum for any questions on this type of stuff. there are a few guys on there that know LOTS AND LOTS.

but after only having the 6x9s (infinity reference as well) and the stock crap up front (minus the pass. side one that didn't work), the audio of the car sounds, i swear, 10x better. it is completely amazing the difference. these are not the only speakers that will have this effect, but they are good either way.

 

Dub, just so you know...I'm not talking about puting a 1000 watt mono block on a 60 watt RMS speaker. I AM saying that if a speaker has a 60 WATT RMS power handling, then putting a 50 watt amplifier on it will not be the most efficient way to get the MOST sound from the speaker. The amp will start clipping before the speaker has reached it's maximium output and that can (and usually WILL) damage the speaker. You'd be better off ot put a 75 or 100 watt per channel amp on the speaker and you won't have to turn the gains up as high and the amp will be a lot less likely to clip before the speaker reaches it;s maximum output. You DO however have to be more careful of the speaker itself as you can still blow it up by running too much power, but that is where common sense and a trained ear can help set everything up to maximize sound quality AND volume level and get your system sounding good and your speaker cones and voice coils staying together.