The other day, I took my doors apart to see what was up with the slow windows... apparently - as yall've pointed out - the tracks are all dried up. Sparayed some WD-40 on the tracks (while the windows are up!) and now they're awesome - quiet and swift! Just don't get any WD-40 on the windows, keep it from splashing.

 

Did you actually take off the inside door panel? Is it hard? Or are there just some screws that need to come off. Slow windows suck. My drivers side window is alright, but the passenger side is horribly slow. Thanks for your quick fix BTW.

Mark

 

yes, very easy -

First make sure your windows are all the way up -

1. flip out the tabs covering the screws holding in the inner door handle trim and at the bottom of the door grab/handle. unscrew those two screws

2. pull the inner door handle so you can remove the trim around it, and unplug the connector behind it

3. carefully pry up the door pull/handle (rocking motion), and again, disconnect associating switches.

4. pull on the door panel down below the speaker grilles - there's a spot to grab onto.

5. keep pulling on the whole perimeter of the door panel (except the top part), you'll hear the clips popping out

6. after all the clips are released, unplug the courtesy light, the security blinker, and anything else that's still connected.

7. with the panel completely disconnected, pull the bottom part towards you a couple inches, and lift/slide the entire assembly up and off of the door. the top part pulls out of a groove at the top of the door.

you may have to tear away some of the clear plastic to get to the good spots to lube.

you have to use the straw/tube that comes with the WD-40 to get into the tight spots. aim right between the wheels and the tracks, and give it a couple quick shots. any residue on the window probably would make a mess, so try and avoid it.

assemble the panel just the way that you took it off, but make sure you fit the top part of the panel into the groove before you snap anything else back together.

enjoy your new orgasmically smooth windows lol

 

Another thing I found out is, you can adjust the felt bumpers that cusion the windows.

Turns out, after 8 years of windows sliding, door slamming, etc., the bumpers don't even touch my windows anymore. So everytime i close my doors with the windows rolled down, even half-way, there's tons of terrible window movement that makes me just cringe.

remove the panel, how i told you above, then loosen the bolts holding in the slidable bumpers, adjust them so they are up against the window (not way too snug, or you'll be slowing your windows down again) and tighten the bolts back. voila!

seems to help a good bit from what it was before -

 

five_pride, how long have you had your car?? do you have a vigor or a TL? just curious b/c youve been a member for 2 yrs and are being active in the forum in the past couple of days.

 

hmmmm, interesting. Good to know.

 

I'm gonna have to try that this weekend. I just hope I can get the door panel back on in one piece!

 

just became my car about 2 years ago, but my dad has had it since about 97(?). I had hidden blue neon footwell lighting in the car before it was even mine... he never had any idea. i'd remove the cupholder and flip a switch

also, about the recent activity... a while back, i thought i couldn't post replies and always wanted to. it always said "you MAY NOT post replies, you MAY NOT etc...", but i guess i just wasn't logged in

i've dissasembled nearly everything on that car and put it back together, so if yall need anything just lemme know

 

oh, i have a 96 2.5.

http://www.cardomain.com/id/fallenshadow

 

I am gonna be ripping my doors apart for the UMPTEENTH time this weekend and fixing the damned windows! I think I'm gonna use some grease instead of WD40 though, should last longer. I'll let you know how it works, and I'l definately be adjusting the felt as I'm sick of the rattle of a half opened window, didn't know it was adjustable...SWEET Thanks Pride.

 

:chainsaw: I'm going to pull apart my door tomorrow and try the greese as well, I was always told by mechinic after mechinic That I needed new window motors(f-ing asswipes) thanks for the info pride.

 

Thanks for the tips. Both of my front windows are slow as all heck!

Just two questions, how long did it take you to do all of that? And how long does the WD40 last?

 

Taking off the door panel can be done in no time at all. Putting it back on is a little tricky just cause you have to make sure your tabs are lined up with the holes. But its reallly really easy to do.

 

Yeah, it's easiest to put back on with the window DOWN. SO after you've done all that, attach the window switches again and roll them down, then disconnect again and re-install the door panel. Trust me, having the window down makes it ALOT easier.

 

the WD's lasted me about 3 weeks so far

 

Cool, I'll have to try it then.

But WD only lasts for 3 weeks? I don't wanna have to do this more then 6 times a year. Isn't there anything better?

 

as in, it's been 3 weeks, and it still works

 

Don't they usually use silicone grease? It should stay on much longer.

 

I did the wd40 thing yesterday and what a diff.
No squeeks and the increased speed that the windows go up is almost weird.

I was going to use grease but, I did'nt have a long enough applicator too completly cover the guide rails.

 

Wow! What a way to bring up an old thread. :p

Thanks for the info!!! I might do that this weekend. Question. Where are the bumpers for the windows located??? I got you on lubricating the window tracks but I don't have a clue what you're talking about on the bumpers. Thanks!!!

 

Is the bumper the stabilizer?
Last weekend, it took me 3 hours to do it the first time, I did the driver side window, WD40, I think it helps a little. I will do my front passenger side, which is the slowest, it should make noticeable improvement.

I also found out the reason why our windows get scratched, it is because that felt on the stabilizer accumulates sands/dust as time goes by, the sands end up rubbing against the windows everytime we roll up/down the windows. It only scratches the outside of the windows because the inside is usually clean.

 

I know this is a hugely old thread, but I got around to doing one of my windows today (only one cause its ~30 degrees out).

Wolfpack, if your wondering what the bumper is, its about 1/3 of the way over from the left (on the drivers side). Its a dark brown felt sort of thing, with a 12mm bolt holding it in place. Loosen the bolt, slide the felt towards the window until they touch, then tighten the bolt back down.

I saw another one, but couldn't see how to adjust it, it was white, and near the other track, but oh well, maybe another time.

 

i assume you want to adjust it while the window is down? that way it only hits it when fully down? i have yet to take my doors off cuz my garage is still full, but i plan on doing it sometime. i have to replace the pass. speaker anyways. lemme know...i'll try to kill several birds with one big stone.

 

Hmm, well, I did mine while the window was up, I don't think it matters. While you replace the speakers and do the window you should put in some sound d..d....d....... deadening stuff, yeah, that..... I'm short on vocab tonight.

 

anyone completely sound dreaden our cars yet? how bad was it...

 

Hmm, well, this spring (or sooner, like few weeks) I want to get the four doors done. I know someone who had a legend:



I need to spend some time talking to him. The trunk needs to get done in my car too, I might pull out things like the center arm rest, and do that area too, I don't want to pull everything apart enough.

 

i have some stuff i can put in there...i'll have to look at it to see where i can put it and how much is acceptable. by the way, if you are planning on doing that to your car, don't buy that sound mat or whatever it's called...that stuff is like 30 bux for 3 square feet. rip off. get Peel n' Seal. it's what roofers use to insulate roofs before laying down a layer of material. works just as well, is much cheaper, and just as easy to apply. i got a roll 3ft x 99 ft for like 60 bux many years ago. i still have lots left. just FYI

but i'll have to take a look at that stopper. for as much as i talk about it, i really need to get a Chilton's (or some such) manual for the car.

 

True True. Check this link out:

https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...7&postcount=11

Blah

 

hehe, i figured there had already been mention of this type of thing. so i'm glad that i'm not the only one that is in to saving money. that pic looks like peal n seel anywho. i'm all about it. good call.

 

It comes up from time to time in most car audio sub forums, and being 17, saving money is a good thing. Actually, I have $50 in change next to my computer right now. Maybe that will be my Peel N Seel fund. Reading around too, you find out a lot of interesting stuff, like in that single post I linked to. If you get around to doing it first, let us all know how it goes. I want some warmer weather first

 

well i'm in Iowa and it's cold as hell here, and when it's not the weather is crap anyways, so i have little chance of doing it now. unless i can get my garage cleared out soon (move wrecked car over) i'll have to wait too. i have a heater and all the stuff i need...just have to clean'r up. will keep posted.

 

Clean that shit up! Haha, I did and I get to park in there now I only got a couple inches before I hit the wall or the door closes on me, but I'm in and can open my doors on my side

We should make it a race...

 

My friend is using this stuff called weather wrap in his legend. I don't think he got as far as the guy in that picture above because he just started and it's been raining here.

 

do you think that sound deading stuff like peel n seal or dynamat will make an appreciable difference in the noise levels in our cars i.e. will it lessen inteior wind/road/tire noise. And is this stuff weighty. The reason I ask, is that car manufacturers sometimes getr rid of sound deading stuff to safe weight. E.g. Acura Integra Type R!!!

 

The sound dreadening will reduce road noise. How much I'm not sure of... The itr isn't a great example because that car is meant for something else. The tl is a luxury car where a quiet and smooth ride is expected. An itr is built to handle well and be fast so saving weight is an issue.

 

ok...here is my 2 cents:

sound deadening material (such as the ones we are talking about) really is meant to keep whatever material it is attached to...more 'silent'. i would say that it is meant to keep more sound IN, then it is to keep sound OUT.

when i put it in my beretta, i lined the trunk and lid with it. i didn't put anything in the doors or rest of the car due to resource restraints. however, it did make a very big difference. now, granted, the lid on the beretta is so damn noisy, that not matter how much you put on there, it will always rattle. not sure how it is with TLs.

depending on how much you put on, it could add some weight. before i put it on the lid, the thing would swing up and open. afterwards, the latch would pop, but the trunk stayed down. i put probably 2 layers on the trunk. puttin it on the floors and stuff isn't as big of a deal. if you're worried about weight, just do it lightly. however, if you just put a few strips in random places, it will be mostly worthless.

as far as road noise, the thing that i see is that the noise comes from many different places. the sound dampener won't necessarily cut much road noise, but it will keep more noises (such as radio) in your car. i guess what i mean is that if you're looking to cut road noise, i wouldn't invest just in this stuff. it's more for audio type things...keeping the sound in and vibration down.

 

i'm just waiting on one of my buddies with his spring compressor to come down and help me change my strut. i have never done it so i won't go rent a compressor either. i'd rather live. :P but hell....i'm up for a challenge. hehe...ready set.....GO!

 

finally got around to messing around with a couple of things.. my windows screeched like a banshee last night when one of my hommies tried to put it down, needless to say it was very annoying.. and i noticed if my windows are dirty there are always two arc like passages that are clean. i checked this out today and i found much like otheres that the stabalizing pad on the outside of teh window is what is causing the scratches to teh window and the screeching sound... i have no idea how to get to that side of it b/c it is on the outer half. anybody try completely dissasembling the door? im contemplating this and maybe doing something about that damn stabilizer and the scratches it causes. Also damn wind noise seeps in through windows..annoys the hell out of me.. thinking about putting some black 3M tape in the crevice where the frameless window goes... may be a little more snug fit will = less wind noise.. ill u keep u guys posted..

 

Most definately let us know if you can get the wind noize down.

Good luck with the window too, I'm not too worried about the scratches, can't get rid of them, so I'm not too worried about the outer stabilizer. The inside one I moved though, WD-40 on the tracks, and I don't have any squeaks, reduced the rattles, and sped up the window speed too. Good luck man. Throw some sound deadening stuff in there too, wouldn't hurt.

dub: As a race I meant getting all the sound stuff in, not struts :-\. Good luck with it though. Let me know if you are still up for teh sound race though

 

old thread but im planning on doing this.. one thing i noticed thou is that my windows roll up slower when my car is dirty but right after i clean it, it rolls up faster, but still really slow