Probles ...Turning causing increase in A/C/Heat flow rate.
#1
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Location: Bolton, Ma
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Probles ...Turning causing increase in A/C/Heat flow rate.
I have posted before about having water come out under the dashboard from using the A/C. Water begins to drip after 10 minutes of using the A/c, During hard turning large amounts of water pour out by the feet of the driver or the front passenger depending on which way the ar is turning.
Now that it is winter and I only use the heat I haven't had to deal with the water. I have searched the forums for information, though i haven't been able to do anyting to fix the water issue.
I Can't find any diagrams for any condesation drainage tubes coming off of the A/c/heater/evaporator in the dashboard. I dont how to access this or find where water could be trapped..... Thats the first PROBLEM....any help with that?
also...
When I turn harder than usualy there is a small sreeching noise coming from the vents where the heat comes out....... also the flow rate of air increases during the duration of the turn..... Sounds like there is somthing in the vents moving side to side when I turn....... the Air flow change occurs without the sound when lighter turning is done.
I feel like the two problems are related But I don't know how to begin to fix this...... ANYONE having the same problem???
Thanks
Now that it is winter and I only use the heat I haven't had to deal with the water. I have searched the forums for information, though i haven't been able to do anyting to fix the water issue.
I Can't find any diagrams for any condesation drainage tubes coming off of the A/c/heater/evaporator in the dashboard. I dont how to access this or find where water could be trapped..... Thats the first PROBLEM....any help with that?
also...
When I turn harder than usualy there is a small sreeching noise coming from the vents where the heat comes out....... also the flow rate of air increases during the duration of the turn..... Sounds like there is somthing in the vents moving side to side when I turn....... the Air flow change occurs without the sound when lighter turning is done.
I feel like the two problems are related But I don't know how to begin to fix this...... ANYONE having the same problem???
Thanks
#2
Do you have a 2.5 or 3.2TL? they are different.
On 2.5TL, the drain tube is on the passenger side firewall down low about foot level. It penetrates firewall and joins evaporator housing just above the transmission tunnel on the pax side. It's easy to disconnect the tube at evaporator housing and blow through the tube to check whetehr blockage is in the tube or in the evap housing. Likely it's in the evap housing and due to dust and debris accumulation blocking the drain outlet.
If you can find the drain outlet from the evap housing you can rig use a air jet and Wet Vac to flush water into the evaporator housing and then suck w/ Wet Vac to pull the fluids out, or let them drain out. Start w/ Wet Vac and see what you can suck out first. Then try flushing/draining to clear additional material. You may be able to loosen and remove the accumulated debris enough to restore proper drainage, although the material may stay in evaporator housing and "reassemble" to reblock the drain. I did this flush/drain/vac proc on my 2.5TL to clean the evaporator w/ disinfectant (ConSan 20) to reduce evaporator smell. Some success, but no slam dunk.
Ultimately, only sure fix is to remove the evaporator housing, a big job on 2.5TL and probably 3.2TL also.
good luck
On 2.5TL, the drain tube is on the passenger side firewall down low about foot level. It penetrates firewall and joins evaporator housing just above the transmission tunnel on the pax side. It's easy to disconnect the tube at evaporator housing and blow through the tube to check whetehr blockage is in the tube or in the evap housing. Likely it's in the evap housing and due to dust and debris accumulation blocking the drain outlet.
If you can find the drain outlet from the evap housing you can rig use a air jet and Wet Vac to flush water into the evaporator housing and then suck w/ Wet Vac to pull the fluids out, or let them drain out. Start w/ Wet Vac and see what you can suck out first. Then try flushing/draining to clear additional material. You may be able to loosen and remove the accumulated debris enough to restore proper drainage, although the material may stay in evaporator housing and "reassemble" to reblock the drain. I did this flush/drain/vac proc on my 2.5TL to clean the evaporator w/ disinfectant (ConSan 20) to reduce evaporator smell. Some success, but no slam dunk.
Ultimately, only sure fix is to remove the evaporator housing, a big job on 2.5TL and probably 3.2TL also.
good luck
#5
2007 6SMT Type-S
Mine was doing the turing thing. I linked it to my blower motor. I had it replaced this past week and it seems to have fixed the problem. I don't know if that helps....?
#6
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Hey Scott,
just had a few questions. Did you have the increasing of air flow when turning, and that went away when you replaced the blower motor??
Or are you talking about the sound of something sliding inside the dash?
Or the water problem.. Thanks
just had a few questions. Did you have the increasing of air flow when turning, and that went away when you replaced the blower motor??
Or are you talking about the sound of something sliding inside the dash?
Or the water problem.. Thanks
#7
2007 6SMT Type-S
Originally Posted by MadMat98tL
Hey Scott,
just had a few questions. Did you have the increasing of air flow when turning, and that went away when you replaced the blower motor??
just had a few questions. Did you have the increasing of air flow when turning, and that went away when you replaced the blower motor??
I took my car to the dealer to have the blower replaced and to be honest, I don't know if the problem still exists, because in the process of replacing the motor the tech scrached my wood steering wheel, dash, and other parts of the car. So, I'm sporting a '08 TL until the fix all that **** they messed up.
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#9
Three Wheelin'
Do you have a 2.5 or 3.2TL? they are different.
On 2.5TL, the drain tube is on the passenger side firewall down low about foot level. It penetrates firewall and joins evaporator housing just above the transmission tunnel on the pax side. It's easy to disconnect the tube at evaporator housing and blow through the tube to check whetehr blockage is in the tube or in the evap housing. Likely it's in the evap housing and due to dust and debris accumulation blocking the drain outlet.
If you can find the drain outlet from the evap housing you can rig use a air jet and Wet Vac to flush water into the evaporator housing and then suck w/ Wet Vac to pull the fluids out, or let them drain out. Start w/ Wet Vac and see what you can suck out first. Then try flushing/draining to clear additional material. You may be able to loosen and remove the accumulated debris enough to restore proper drainage, although the material may stay in evaporator housing and "reassemble" to reblock the drain. I did this flush/drain/vac proc on my 2.5TL to clean the evaporator w/ disinfectant (ConSan 20) to reduce evaporator smell. Some success, but no slam dunk.
Ultimately, only sure fix is to remove the evaporator housing, a big job on 2.5TL and probably 3.2TL also.
good luck
On 2.5TL, the drain tube is on the passenger side firewall down low about foot level. It penetrates firewall and joins evaporator housing just above the transmission tunnel on the pax side. It's easy to disconnect the tube at evaporator housing and blow through the tube to check whetehr blockage is in the tube or in the evap housing. Likely it's in the evap housing and due to dust and debris accumulation blocking the drain outlet.
If you can find the drain outlet from the evap housing you can rig use a air jet and Wet Vac to flush water into the evaporator housing and then suck w/ Wet Vac to pull the fluids out, or let them drain out. Start w/ Wet Vac and see what you can suck out first. Then try flushing/draining to clear additional material. You may be able to loosen and remove the accumulated debris enough to restore proper drainage, although the material may stay in evaporator housing and "reassemble" to reblock the drain. I did this flush/drain/vac proc on my 2.5TL to clean the evaporator w/ disinfectant (ConSan 20) to reduce evaporator smell. Some success, but no slam dunk.
Ultimately, only sure fix is to remove the evaporator housing, a big job on 2.5TL and probably 3.2TL also.
good luck
#10
This is helping me out guys. I have had the same prob with my 3.2. I put my car on a lift and ran a coat hanger up into the tube but nothing came out. So I assume that there is debris inside the housing that intermittently blocks the tubing exit.
Also I did not notice any problems until we just got 3 days of rain, so i figured that somehow water was getting into the car but only sloshed around on hard turns.
Also I did not notice any problems until we just got 3 days of rain, so i figured that somehow water was getting into the car but only sloshed around on hard turns.
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