I have a 98tl 2.5 and i need to change both axle's. could someone please direct me to the diy or email me the how to sheet for both sides. I went to a shop and they told me 360 for both sides including parts and labor. Price doesnt sound bad, but i found the axle's for 130 shipped brand new for both sides and i have nothing but time on my hands and all the tools to do the job.

my email address is rlarge1@hotmail.com

Thanks alot

 

You'll need a ball joint remover to remove the lower ball joint. That way you can pull the spindle out and get the axle off. After that, you pretty much just have to pry the axle out of the hole. Be sure to coat your new axles in a bit of clean motor oil before putting it back in, though. It'll help a lot.

~Cheers~

P.S. Oh, and I wouldn't cheap out on the ball joint remover. I bought the best one available at the tool shop and I still bent it slightly. A cheaper one would've snapped. Honda OEM was over $400, though, and it would've taken too long to get to me.

 

i did this and its very easy on the 2.5

pretty much jack the car up
- remove both wheels
-remove both arm assemblies by popping the balljoints

there is some misc stuff that needs to be unbolted, but its very very straight forward.

once all is done and your ready to pull the axle i used a large flathead and pryed it loose, they should pop right out. don't smack or hit anything trying to get it out. also make sure the little ring on the end of each axle comes out, if not use magnet to retreive.

put on your new axles and re-assemble everything. if you have an air gun i would rate this job at under 1 hour. if not, def not that much longer just make sure to have a breaker bar handy. use new cotter pins and take for a spin!! good luck, its not bad just start taking it apart.

use a balljoint remover and use a jack to pop them out its much easier.

 

thanks for your responses guys, i'm picking up the parts tomorrow morning and going to attempt it then, so i guess there's no step by step diy on this with pic's? do i have to change the diff fluid as well? and will i need a alignment afterwards?

 

no step by step that i know about. you don't need to change diff fluid. if you want you can get an alignment, i didnt and haven't had any problems. i changed both fronts out over 15k ago they were both mangled

 

thanks, mine are terrible, slightest turn and click click click, it's embarrising. Getting the car painted next week and just want to knock this out. I'm also looking to do my dash lights, but can't find a kit for our year

 

PM Go90go for the lights. I am sure he can help you out. Make sure you torque all the bolts to proper specs when you put everything back together.

 

When using a threaded bolt/pin and bracket to push the ball joint out of it's receptacle, don't try brute force (continuous turning) of the push bolt. Tighten bolt very tight and hit the receptacle body w/ a 3-lb hammer. It should release. This avoids overloading the BJ separator and damaging the threads or bracket.

I damaged my inexpensive BJ separator using it incorrectly (threads damaged), but have managed to reuse numerous times since w/ the above procedure and no further damage.

Note, some BJ separators may require widening the forked foot that straddles the lower BJ shaft. BJ shaft is about 20mm and separator fork is about 18mm. I had to grind the fork wider to fit on mine and it worked fine.

good luck

 

thanks for your input tex, i got the driver side done today and the worst part was that lbj. I was able to screw the bolt back on the bottom of the blj and put my floor jack on the screw and jack the car up a little, after that I beat the hell out of the flat side just under the lbj with the 3 lb hammer and after a few good wacks it came loose. I was lucky my neighboor had a brass hammer when it came to putting the new axle in, after greasing it up, i had a hard time getting it to seat all the way, so i used the brass hammer to get it in once i had it straight, worked like a charm. I'll be taking on the passenger side tomorrow.