Hello all,
My question here is for anyone who has changed their rotors on a 96 2.5 TL. I actually do a lot of my own work, but this time I was (I thought) blessed by my normal mechanic going to do everything for me for $30 (I bought Brembo OEM's separately)

Problem was I watched most of what he did, but he couldn't get the rotors off today. The order was pretty simple, tires off, caliper off, center lug off. But then rotor failed to come off, even with him putting an axle puller on with a couple lug nuts.

I read in my Mitchell online guide and they say to remove 4 front hub bolts and then flange bolts when the rotor is off. I also noticed many of your forums talking about phillips head screws. I don't remember seeing screws on my rotor, I could have missed it, but can someone help clarify this for me as I going back tomorrow.

P.s. He is a general mechanic, not a Honda or Acura specialist so I can understand him missing something. I need to know the location of these hub bolts or screws I believe.

Thanks in advance.
Phil

 

the 4 bolts i believe are on the front of the rotor inbetween the lug nuts...i think thats what your talking about but i'm not sure

 

LDH,
I appreciate your quick reply as I am watching the forum every few minutes to see if I can get this nailed down before tomorrow.

Unfortunately, I do know which four bolts you are talking about and I think those might be the flange bolts which connect the rotor to the outer hub. We did actually remove those as well just to make sure but could not get the outer hub to come off of the axle I believe. The rotor was loose behind the outer hub after we took those off. I am just going back to the mitchell book which lists two different sets of bolts

Again, I appreciate the quick response, but I still need some more help.

Thank you
Phil

 

First, get an Acura service manual if you can. It is a TREMENDOUS help. Now, on to your question...

The front hub is a two piece unit. To get it out without using a slidehammer and risk ruining your front bearings you just need to simply unbolt the 4 bolts that hold the hub on to the spindle/knuckle assembly. These 4 bolts are on the BACK side of the steel dust shield that is behind the rotor. So remove the brake caliper, remove the 4 hub bolts that are located next to the lug studs, remove the big axle bolt, remove the 4 hub bolts on the back side of the dust shield and everything will come out.

I know it sounds weird to have to remove all of these bolts but trust me, it's what you need to do. I just upgraded the brakes on my 98 2.5 and found out the hard way how to do it.

Tom

 

hey Tom: any similar advice for the rear rotors? I have to do all four on my own soon, and any advice helps. tia

 

The rear rotors are much easier provided you have the correct tool. The tool you will need is an Impact Screwdriver. Basically it is a special screwdriver that you put in the correct size bit (phillips or + in our case), line it up with the screw holding the rotor on and hit the screwdriver with a hammer. The impact of the hammer drives the screwdriver into the screw thus keeping it from stripping and at the same time it rotates the screw via a special mechanism in the screwdriver. You should be able to get one of these at any reputable tool store. I got mine from Harbor Freight for under $10. I would not recommend removing the screw that holds on the rotor with anything except this tool as you will strip out the screw head.

1. Jack up car and support with jackstands
2. Remove wheels
3. Remove brake calipers
4. Use impact screwdriver to remove the phillips screws that hold the rotor on. I believe there is 1 screw per rotor. It is located right next to the lugnut studs. You can't miss it.
5. Remove rotor

I put a drop of blue loctite on the screw when I put them back in. I also used the impact screwdriver and one good hit to tighten the screw down so I know it's not coming out.

Tom

 

did you clean any parts or spray it down with WD40 or anything before putting it back together?

and those instructions are the same basically for the front set?

 

I cleaned up all the parts before I put them back on. I didn't paint or anything (why bother, it's just going to get dirty again anyway) but I did use some de-greaser and a wire brush to clean everything.

The scope of what I did was replace the rotors all around, rebuild all 4 brake calipers (this was a HUGE pain in the arse), install new brake pads, and steel braided brake lines.

The rotors are KVR Performance vented and crossdrilled rotors all the way around with Akebono ProACT Ceramic pads and Goodridge Racing steel braided brake lines. This car stops on a dime and will give you 9.5 cents change. The braking performance is soooo much better then stock that I just can't put it in words. Wet, dry, hot, cold, no matter what the car stops like nobody's business. The pedal is very linear and has a really good feedback.

Tom

 

dayum! sweet!

 

oh, and don't use WD40. It attracts dust and dirt. I use TriFlow most of my lubrication needs.

 

Just to add something since i just did my rear breakpads this weekend. To get the caliper to compress there is a large + i tried a large flathead screwdriver but didn't have one large enough. I ended up purchasing a cube looking tool that attaches to a socket wrench. It has 4 posts that fit into the large + and you have to screw it back in. I suggest having 2 sets of hands, as its hard to hold the caliper and apply pressure with this silly tool. The rear rotors have 4 phillips head screws holding them on.

 

Tom,
Thanks so much for your response. I actually just put pads on to get through inspection and it helped the high speed braking wobble for now, but still have the brand new boxed Brembo's in my back seat. The mechanic was trying a slide hammer and thank god he didn't get out the bearings cause I priced them out at like 85 each afterwards and would have been upset since HE SAID those 4 bolts wouldn't help (His last time for easy after hours cash.) I asked him about them the 2nd trip when he had some more time and I had done more research.

I will work on these as soon as possible when I am free for the day. Last question though, after I take off the 4 rear bolts, will I still need some muscle (i.e. a slide hammer) to get the old rotor off?

P.S. I have the mitchell online guide (like an acura manual.) Did you mean the Helms manual I can get for $50 or some bootleg acura copy? If it is very detailed, I think that will be my next step.

pps. Rebuilding your calipers...any snafu's or just time consuming and tedious?

Thanks again Tom
Phil

 

The manual I was talking about was the one you can get from Helm Inc. It is the "official" service manual from Acura.

You shouldn't need much muscle at all to get the rotor off once you have the hidden bolts undone. What will happen is you'll pull the hub assembly and rotor off the axle splines all in one unit. Once it is off the car the rotor will slip off the back of the hub assembly.

As for the calipers.... what a pain. The way Acura designed the dust boots that fit over the piston is a big pain. Basically you have to use LOTS of brake fluid as a lubricant, fit the dustboot over the piston, line the piston up in the hole in the caliper and use a small flat tipped screwdriver to slowly push the dust boot into the groove in the caliper that it fits in. Once the whole boot is in the groove you can slowly push the piston into the caliper. It took my friend and I about 45 minutes to figure out how to get the first one back together. I imagine Acura has a special jig that makes it easier but I don't know where to get it or even if it does exist. Two people is a must for this process.

Tom