system hookup 2002 rl

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Old 03-20-2007, 10:00 PM
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system hookup 2002 rl

Hey, first time posting in here, anyway. I just bought myself a nice sub,box, and amp but i have no idea how to hook it up, i dont have the money for a new head unit, is there any other way to get this thing working?

im a huge noob at audio stuff but im wiling to learn! so any input will be helpfull

if it helps i have a kicker cvx 15 and an infinity 1211a
Old 03-20-2007, 10:14 PM
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and i think i just posted in the wrong forum..
Old 03-21-2007, 03:43 PM
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lol me either i'm a noob. try to mess around with it or read the manual...
Old 03-21-2007, 04:11 PM
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you need an in line high output converter. There is an amp behind the back seat inside the trunk. Honestly with the RL I would take it to a stereo shop and pay the money to have it done the rite way. It really is a difficult install. I have a 2000 watt rms Quantum amp pushing a 15" DB Drive Platinum 2000 watt sub, with a 5 farad stinger cap in mine.
Old 03-21-2007, 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Big Green Acura
you need an in line high output converter. There is an amp behind the back seat inside the trunk. Honestly with the RL I would take it to a stereo shop and pay the money to have it done the rite way. It really is a difficult install. I have a 2000 watt rms Quantum amp pushing a 15" DB Drive Platinum 2000 watt sub, with a 5 farad stinger cap in mine.

the guy at the stereo place near me mentioned something about a converter for like 50$ that u just splice on to the existing wires, but he said it was a crap way of doing it and tried to get me to replace my hu all of my speakers and tried to get me to buy a "custom built" box for 400$... after he said that didnt beleive anything he told me after that.. and im not goin back there becuase the guy was gettin snotty with me and pressuring me into doin all of that on the spot.

the only other place near me that can do car audio is bestbuy/ circuit city, think they can handle it?
Old 03-22-2007, 12:19 AM
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They should be strait up. The converter cost me $15. It hits so hard that everything rattels. If you put something on the trunk lid when it is hitting it will get kicked up in the air. It gets painful to turn it up for too long. Circut city, or best buy should be able to do it for a reasonable price. My custom box cost me $20. I got my windows tinted and stereo put in for $200. It was a $1,500 stereo to put in though.
Old 03-22-2007, 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Big Green Acura
They should be strait up. The converter cost me $15. It hits so hard that everything rattels. If you put something on the trunk lid when it is hitting it will get kicked up in the air. It gets painful to turn it up for too long. Circut city, or best buy should be able to do it for a reasonable price. My custom box cost me $20. I got my windows tinted and stereo put in for $200. It was a $1,500 stereo to put in though.
how so cheap?? you know ppl?
Old 03-22-2007, 09:36 PM
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Tint was on sale for $99, and the stereo hook up was about $100. I already had my own stuff.
Old 03-24-2007, 10:33 PM
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i just thought of something, wont my cd player skip since its right next to the sub??
Old 03-25-2007, 01:50 AM
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I thought that also. If you run enough power without a cap it will drain the unit of so much power it can't compensate.Then you get skips bad. Use a good capacitor and the power is there to keep it running, and it never skips. I keep my rear center console down and open and you can actually feel the wind coming out of there like a wind tunnel when the bass hits, and it hasn't skipped yet. My only skip I remember is when there was a basketball rolling around and on a sharp turn hit the changer. That's why i use the cargo net.
Old 03-25-2007, 10:04 AM
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Depending on the system you are running, it could skip with/without a cap.

I have my old system, which was 100% Free, so I am dealing with it for now.

It is a XM2200GTX Sony Explod Sub 1200W Max 500W RMS pushing a 300W RMS MTX Sub. It bumps like crazy, but could be a hell of a lot clearer. I have also measured my amp and it seems to be pushing closer to 600W RMS than 500, so I am waiting for that sub to blow. I am a huge fan of Alpine and my next investment is a Type R. I do not like overkill on subs, and Type Rs hit harder than some trunks with 2 12s in them...Not to mention the amp I have is perfect for a Type R (500W RMS Amp, 500W RMS Sub, 1200W Max Amp, 1000W max Sub.) I got crazy rattles but I installed Peal N Seel...still rattles but louder in the cabin. Waiting to get Dynamat Xtreme installed at a local shop for $200 including parts.

As for the splicing into the rear speaker wires...it is not a "shit way to do it." Tell the guy at your local shop to get f***ed. They make the converters for a reason...I have a stock H/U pushing that system. It sounds just as good as it did in my old Lexus ES300 with an aftermarket H/U. I would advise you to get an amp with Remote Bass Control if you plan on keeping the stock H/U. Mine doesn't have it and I am afraid I will blow my speakers one of these days....

Hope some of that helps...
Old 03-28-2007, 03:07 PM
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alright, i got all my stuff hooked up and its working great, only thing is now my box is starting to rattle apart lol, i need to put some screws+ nails in it asap.
Old 03-31-2007, 05:45 PM
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well this is great, 5th day i have my stuff hooked up, my sub fries and smoke pours out of the vent in the box, later to find that one of the voice coils got disconnected. im goin back to circuit city and askin them to replace it, since its their fault...
Old 04-01-2007, 10:59 PM
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sounds crappy. They should install a new one. Thats why I hate to do my own stuff, even though I know how to.
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