Madison3

Hi all, I have an '07 RDX with 45600 miles.

While driving down the Interstate today, the Engine Check Light and both the VSA and SH-AWD warning lights came on and stayed on. The car was otherwise OK with no noticeable change in performance or handling. I stopped the car and shut down the engine. I re-started the car, everything was OK except the Engine Check Light came and stayed on (the VSA and SH-AWD lights stayed off).

I called my servicing center to schedule a check tomorrow, but I was wondering if the other owners here experienced anything similar and what was the cause of that experience.

Madison3

So I got a call from the shop, and they said that an oil pressure switch failed, triggering the three caution lights (Engine Check, VSA, and SH-AWD lights). They had to order in the part, so it'll take another day before I get back my car.

I'll ask for more details then and share if anything interesting.

Madison3

Got the car back, and it looks like the servicing team fixed it.

The trouble code was P2647, means there's something wrong with the Oil Pressure switch.

So Oil Pressure Switch P/N 37250-PNE-G01 was replaced. Fortunately the switch doesn't cost much (and my car is still under warranty).

wspy

SOB,... the same thing just happened to mine!

Pulled out to overtake, on a wet road, as the boost came on it I felt what I thought was the wheels looseing traction. So I say to myself, cool nice power, and then blam at aproximately 40mph the engine looses all power and at the same time the dash lights up with "engine check light" " check vsa system" and " check sh-awd system"!!
So I drive the rest of the way home, and before reaching I do some drivability type checks. At light throttle car accelerates ok smoothly, but once you floor it the engine would cut out so to speak.
Parked, shut off the engine, and then restarted and only the 'engine check light' remains on!
Gotta get the code pulled now..........SOB!!

wspy

So far I havent got a chance to pull the codes but other than the "check emmissions" light being on the car drives fine!

wspy

So I get in the car and start up this morning and...... no check lights!....go figure!

kingkong222

Same thing happened to me last night driving home. Took my car to auto zone and got a code that has to do with vtec oil pressure switch failed. Does anyone have a diagram of where the vtec solenoid is?

kingkong222

I was looking at my extended power train warranty and it looks like this might be covered at the dealer. I will bring the car in tomorrow.

kingkong222

So I brought the car in the dealership today. They stated the rocker arm pressure switch circuit needed to be replaced. Apparently, it was not covered by the powertrain warranty. After parts and labor $377 and some change. Hated to have this happened so soon as my car has 63k miles on it and it's an 09. I was hoping that my extended power train warranty would cover it since it is somewhat related to the engine. I guess I'll write to Honda and see if they would reimburse some of it.

evo462

Hi all,

I realize this thread is about a year old but I just had the P2647 error myself on my 2007 RDX with 85k miles.

Two days ago the battery died (unknown age) and I could only start the car by jumping it. It sat with the battery dead for about a day before I replaces it.

Once I got the new battery in, I started the car and went for a short drive and the SH-AWD, VSA, and check engine light were all on (though none were prior to the battery dying). I chalked it up to the battery dying and the computer "resetting" itself - in nearly every car I've had, it seems like the car takes 20 or 30 miles after extended loss of power to resume normalcy.

I drove it earlier (one more day after replacing the battery) and all the lights were off except the check engine light. I hooked it up to my diagnostic scanner and that's how I found the P2647 code. I reset it and am going to drive it more tomorrow to see if it comes back. I am hoping it was just a quirk due to the dead battery and only having driven < 5 miles after replacing it.

Thoughts? I think it would be an amazing coincidence if a sensor went bad ar the same time as the battery. I did check the oil level and it's perfect.

stathis

I got the same problem today. Suddenly while driving on highway the SHAWD, and the check engine light came on at the same time.
The car drove great, and made me suspicious that both lights came on together...
Stopped at the gas station, checked, everything looked fine. Opened and closed the gas tank (to exclude emissions issue). Then restarted it and the SHAWD light was gone. But the engine light still on. The manual says it may take several days to go away, even when you reclose the tank cap. It passed smog inspection last week. Oil life 15%.
So I suspect it's probably some bad sensor somewhere. Like the "brake system" light that comes on every now and then...
[133K, 2007 base, serviced only at the dealer].

stathis

Today the engine light is gone. So that's good news. Nothing to worry about.

stathis

Yesterday the light came back on. The error code was P0325. "Knock sensor".
It didn't seem to affect anything in terms of performance.

TNTitanAcura

Same thing happened to mine. I just had my starter replaced and i started driving and i pulled out of a side street to the main road like I've done hundreds of times before and my VSA triangle flashed then went off and the Check Engine: Emissions light came on, as well as the Sh-AWD light.

i can feel my sh-awd not working correctly, what is the problem?

stathis

In my case everything works ok, even with the 2 lights on. Next day they're both gone.
I realized that the errors tend to happen when I floor the gas.
I will get a cheap error code scanner, to be able to monitor, and reset it without having to disconnect the battery every time.

TNTitanAcura

I found what my problem was. I had my starter replaced, and the mechanic forgot to plug the knock sensor back in! All is gravy!

stathis

Where is the knock sensor?
I checked some videos and requires taking out the intake manifold, so it is a substantial job...

stathis

The OBD2 scanner determined that it was my knock sensor failing. I had it replaced at the dealer $500 (ouch) but that's prices for 3 hours of labor and parts here in Los Angeles....
Now it's been fine.

Dtheod

You do not have to remove the intake manifold to replace the knock sensor. It looks like you do, however you use a few short 3/8 extentions and get under the manifold. You have to remove the antifreeze tank, and 1 fan, left one if facing car. This will allow your hands clearance to be able to get in easier. The fan has two screws and very easy to remove. You can replace the knock sensor yourself. This is not a hard fix. When you tighten it, tighten it by hand by spinning the extention and going slow. Once you reach the point where you use the ratchet...tighten is another 1/2 a turn. No need to go crazy with it. It is about a 40 min to 1 hour job. That the dealer would charge you $400-500 for. Because they charge you for removing the intake. Regardless if they do or not. They do not have to. It is just to overbill you.

CSmoney28

Yeah if you have the tools already