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This is to document issues we have been having with the starter on a new to us 08 RDX with 300k km.
We changed the transmission range switch recently to clear a code, and i have not read any codes with a detailed code scanner (checks engine, transmission, SHAWD, etc).
Recently i was able to get a couple of consistent starts with no issues by applying di-electric grease to the starter solenoid terminal. This worked for a few days but my partner reported it not starting this morning.
My plan is to purchase a new cut off relay as i am not convinced the starter has gone bad. When it does crank, it does so with no issues and it was consistent. When it does not crank, it appears as if nothing is happening, that is the lights do not dim, there is no large click, it is as if turning the key does nothing.
I will purchase a new starter relay from a nearby dealership tonight and see if it resolves the issue. My second plan would be to rebuild the brush assembly and clean the starter internals. I have rebuilt alternators out of older volvo's and do not expect the honda starter to be much of an issue.
Any input would be appreciated, however the goal of this is to document the repair process.
PS:
Battery was new from interstate, new date code as well
Alternator charges to 14V so i am not worried about a charge issue
No codes thrown on a no start
Power does not dim on a no start
Lights do not dim on a no start.
Next time when it doesn't crank try pushing (gently) gear lever towards engine, while in park, and crank the engine with other hand. If it starts then it's a loose cable or something along that route. If it doesn't start that way then it's a starter. You may also want to check all the ground and positive cables.
I replaced my starter on mine 2008 RDX with around 130k on the clock 2 or more years ago .
I replaced my son’s 08 RDX starter last month (120k miles, after he bought new tires and battery. You know starters don’t last forever..
I appreciate the input. Starter price here does not seem that unreasonable however we are only having an issue with the first start of a day or few hours. Cranks right up after. I can "bounce" the starter after the first crank which means i can crank it with the key consistently after the first start with no delay and no odd sounds.
I am coming from a position where i have dealt with lots of corroded or older wires and greasing and cleaning contacts have fixed many things. I am no stranger to buying oem new parts as needed, but i prefer to only do it if its fully necessary.
Will report back over the next little bit about what occurs.
I changed the starter cut out relay as i had a new spare for the vehicle and it made no change.
The behaviour transition was as follows:
-on any start 2-3 times may not engage the starter, 4th time did
-greased but did not clean solenoid starter contact
-first day all starts were good, no failure
-now first start of the day results in no engagement, the lights do not dim and it does not sound like the starter is powered at all.
-all other starts are quick with no odd noises, no held engagement, no bad starts
In the old days we would strike the suspect starter motor with a hammer to get it to fire off. I seem to remember using a golf club on my 08 RDX one time. I believe it’s helping the brushes contact the armature “one”more time .
Most replacement starters are rebuilt , unless you go with new ..around 200 bucks for a tested rebuilt unit with warranty.
Try beating on starter next time it fails to energize ..ya never know and it’s a cheap test too.
In the old days we would strike the suspect starter motor with a hammer to get it to fire off. I seem to remember using a golf club on my 08 RDX one time. I believe it’s helping the brushes contact the armature “one”more time .
Most replacement starters are rebuilt , unless you go with new ..around 200 bucks for a tested rebuilt unit with warranty.
Try beating on starter next time it fails to energize ..ya never know and it’s a cheap test too.
The odd part about it is that it will fail to crank, we will turn the key back to position 2, then turn the key to the start position (assuming position 3) and the starter engages and fires right up without incident.
Personally i would either buy an acura one as they quoted me a fairly good price or rebuild the internals myself in this case. Not sure if either is warranted as the behaviour has not gotten worse.
One other thought..ignition switch. I’m thinking it’s a possibility, plus the key/cylinder doesn’t require replacement. Maybe someone else will chime in .
One other thought..ignition switch. I’m thinking it’s a possibility, plus the key/cylinder doesn’t require replacement. Maybe someone else will chime in .
I will be the first to admit i was wrong. Starter fully died last night. Single click, no light dimming, would not crank. I tried to jump to the solenoid with a fused 10 amp wire and it popped the fuse.
Hoping to drop by a dealership today to pick up an oem starter and do the change later today.
God bless CAA, atleast the tow was free to an area i could do the work.
@Chopperpilot thank you for your input, will do a full dissection on the starter and post picks later in the week.
One other thought..ignition switch. I’m thinking it’s a possibility, plus the key/cylinder doesn’t require replacement. Maybe someone else will chime in .
Yes, a lot of people hang a bunch of weight from their key and it damages the switch. I gave my dad a quick release key ring after his 2nd switch, but he had 50 keys hanging on his.
Lack of update however i changed out the starter and the car starts much faster with none of the previous issues. Bad starter, will do a dissection and post results when time permits.
The feedback I got was the parasitic battery draw 1st gen's are known for, shortens the life of the starter.
Replaced battery multiple times and starter finally failed...I replaced the starter at the 11th year of ownership of my 09' and now charge my battery intermittently as I work from home and drive less.
Starter Teardown:
So i took apart the starter and it looks like the brushes were just worn out. Note how the top two brushes are virtually gone. The brush assembly is orderable which will replace that entire black section. It was about 50 cad if i remember correctly through the dealer but was a 4-6 week wait time. If you want to have a spare post replacement, might be worth it to change the brushes.
That black dust is the wornout brushes. Irregular shapes on the brushes may indicate arcing occurred as poor connections were made.
Here is the part number for the brush holder set which will contain the brushes, the contact, and the solenoid. 2007-2012 Acura RDX 31210RWCA02
DO NOT OVERTORQUE THE TOP BOLT
Here is the part number for the brush holder set which will contain the brushes, the contact, and the solenoid. 2007-2012 Acura RDX 31210RWCA02
DO NOT OVERTORQUE THE TOP BOLT
Yep, absolutely do not overtorque the top nut that holds the starter cable. It's mounted in plastic.
I had the same intermittent start issues, started out acting like a dead battery. Then I started getting no spin when turning the key the first time. When I looked at the starter the rubber boot wasn't over the nut, showing that someone else before me changed the starter or checked the nut tightness. When I went to remove the starter and turned that nut I realized the plastic under was broken. It twisted right out of the rubber shields on the starter body. So the stud and nut were stuck on the end of my starter cable. Luckily I was able to shake the nut loose with an impact. Otherwise it would have been a bad day.
Can you point me to starter parts? Wondering if that could be replaced and still be worthwhile to rebuild with that added cost. Probably not. Need to take it apart and have a look at the other stuff.
Yep, absolutely do not overtorque the top nut that holds the starter cable. It's mounted in plastic.
I had the same intermittent start issues, started out acting like a dead battery. Then I started getting no spin when turning the key the first time. When I looked at the starter the rubber boot wasn't over the nut, showing that someone else before me changed the starter or checked the nut tightness. When I went to remove the starter and turned that nut I realized the plastic under was broken. It twisted right out of the rubber shields on the starter body. So the stud and nut were stuck on the end of my starter cable. Luckily I was able to shake the nut loose with an impact. Otherwise it would have been a bad day.
Can you point me to starter parts? Wondering if that could be replaced and still be worthwhile to rebuild with that added cost. Probably not. Need to take it apart and have a look at the other stuff.
I think i put the part number for the brush holder assembly which included the nut in the posts above.
I think the assembly was like 50-70$ cad but it is backordered like a month or two. Check prices of a started with the dealers as they were surprisingly cheap up here 235cad for a new starter.
09-13-2022, 02:09 PM
