P2263 and P0234 time to fixit

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Old 01-02-2019, 12:50 PM
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P2263 and P0234 time to fixit

P2263 and P0234






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Hi everyone, have this codes for a wile and getting tired of the lack of power when needed.
Have a spare car for a week, so I want to try and fix it.
Have removed the inter cooler and some other parts and stuck in there, the reason is all the tubes are very rusted.
So looking for a way to remove everything but in a way that I will be able to reinstall without to much trouble.
I would like to remove all and maybe if possible rebuilt all the tubes.
Doesn't look easy.
I cant seem to see how to remove, cant see all the attachments and if its removable with the engine in place.
My friend Google doesn't seem to find any videos or much info on how to do it.
I kind figured that all this tubes are vacuum belonging to the Turbo.
Would like to see some comments on this please.
Old 01-03-2019, 09:35 AM
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Old 01-04-2019, 01:29 PM
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So what's best was to fix this??

Last edited by Poveiro; 01-04-2019 at 01:31 PM. Reason: add comment
Old 01-04-2019, 01:46 PM
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Sorry for the spelling, can't edit the above message.
What's the best way to fix this?
Parts available anywhere?
Old 01-26-2019, 07:53 PM
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This is the way it is when a dealer says it stuck open.
https://1drv.ms/v/s!Ar5obS0rt-saxzBMzx95n0PHx7Ku
Old 01-26-2019, 07:56 PM
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And this is the way that works properly. Sorry for the compresseur noise.
https://1drv.ms/v/s!Ar5obS0rt-saxzHJRaY6fLJmjdaV

Last edited by Poveiro; 01-26-2019 at 07:58 PM.
Old 01-26-2019, 08:22 PM
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The actuator, why not a bearing??
https://1drv.ms/v/s!Ar5obS0rt-saxzJRwgNyCZPpO_hq
Old 02-13-2019, 05:56 PM
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Hi all.This is what I have learned so far about the Turbo P2263 code.To some this problem was the wastegate, actuator and to others vacuum loss.The tubes of the vacuum connections are of very low steel quality.They rust a lot and with the rust, holes open of the size of a pin, this not mentioning the rubber hoses.The problem of the actuator can be fixed without removing the Turbo as shown on the tread #267 by QFT in https://acurazine.com/forums/1g-rdx-...-861782/page7/The wastegate when stuck open, maybe also fixed without removing the Turbine.The fist way is to get to the rubber hose connected to the wastegate and apply very low air pressure and help with another hand or a helper to push back to close, use oil on the wastegate connector to free up the parts and clear rust and dirt, doing this several times helps to clear what ever may be preventing the door to close, see video in this tread to understand.Another way is to remove the warm up catalyst converter and access the door that the wastgate actuates, making it move several times help with clearing the dirt and rust away.With the turbine out and when I removed the wastegate I noticed that if not well aligned it would also stay stuck, so theres a chance that the rod moved and with the rod out of alignment the door would stay open, so that small nut must be well tighten and even use thread lock (Loctite).There’s no way to align the rod if got loosen without removing the Turbine (my believe)

Last edited by Poveiro; 02-13-2019 at 06:00 PM.
Old 02-14-2019, 10:58 PM
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Thanks for taking the time out to do this thread and write up good work. Keep it coming...
Old 02-17-2019, 05:29 PM
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Well another problem that I see is the bad quality of the pipes that connect to the turbo.
This one (17137-RWC-A00) I was repairing and give up because with each weld a new hole would appear.
I will save this pipe that can be used to repair something else, the thicker pipe is still in good shape.
So far this code P2263 to me had the valve staying open, vaccum leak and the part that I broke (36160-RWC-A01) that looked that already had a problem.
My actuator had no C clip, the wear out is very minimal.
I'm going to put things back with the hold hoses, just to be easier to see how everything was, them replace one by one with silicone ones.





Old 02-17-2019, 06:02 PM
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Keep us updated with the repairs, all the metal rusts to nothing on these trucks.
Old 07-09-2019, 09:16 PM
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Hi Poveiro,

I can't thank you enough for your contributions, I am going to perform an inspection on my car over the weekend, Btw: i brought my car over to a shop that primarily rebuilds turbos went for a drive with the tech. it was suggested i change the cam-sensor an the crank-shaft sensor. but I honestly can't wrap my head around those suggestions, since there aren't any fault codes at the ecu to justify the replacement of those parts, so instead i am going inspected the wastegate n vacuum lines. Attached is a picture for those of us who need a visual for reference.

Old 07-19-2019, 07:49 PM
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I can’t believe how rusted everything is!
Old 07-28-2019, 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by CSmoney28
I can’t believe how rusted everything is!
I took a trip to the auto wreckers yesterday i yank out a turbo n the donor car it was coming out off had very little to no rust on the body, that said once i got into the engine bay some the piping on the turbo was corroded to hell. I coulnt beileve it. The turbo appear to be ok but jeez the piping jap scrap, we should leave the pipe making to the americans instead, or the french. I picked up all sonenoids boost sensor cam sensors. Blow off valve. Thus far i replaced the blow off valve n boost sensor no luck..limb mode is still there....Eventually i will replaced the entire turbo with the 1 i picked up. However I am debating on maybe replacing both actuators with aftermarket ones. I honestly dont wanna deal with taking this thing apart ever again. It took me 1hr 30 minutes of my life i will never get back tabernac. Going forward it will take 1.30 minutes to take off my old turbo n 1.30 minutes to put it back maybe more because one has to be very careful not to damage anything along the way.

Old 08-06-2019, 08:57 PM
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Looks like they use the cheapest chineese garbage steel with no coating so it rusts to hell.
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