Hey everyone! I'm sure some of you want to shoot me for this but I want to shoot myself also.
my name is Ed and I have a 2009 RDX that I recently put on a new turbo on because the original one went bad and dumped alot of oil in the engine. I got that cleaned out, installed the new turbo and 3 months later the p2263 pops up. If I reset it the code will only pop up if I get on it. It seems to spool super fast and has alot of power for what it is.
I have put a new air filter, has new spark plugs, the actuator linkage has no wear.
I don't have a smoke machine and only a basic Innova scan tool. I have spent about 2 months trying to fix this on my own before I wanted to bother anyone. The car runs great except fuel economy seems to be horrible, fuel trims are retracting a good amout of fuel but not enough to cause any codes. The only code im getting is the P2263.
If anyone has a suggestion or wants to help in anyway I'd greatly appreciate it. This really can't be that difficult. I'm just missing something. One other thing is it seems to stumble a little when starting as if it's flooded a little.
I need to get it inspected so I need to fix the check engine light.
Thank you to anyone who has read this and or is willing to help. I sincerely appreciate it. Have a wonderful week.
ALSO I spent weeks reading ALOT of threads on this code before posting this.

 

Assuming you have read the whole long thread on P2263, your symptoms describe the same issue that typically throws the code. As the wear on the bolt worsens, the amount of slack in the adjuster increases and you'll see the code more frequently. But it tends to start by appearing under heavy throttle. Have you already done a visual inspection of the actuator bolt to see if there is any excess wear? If not, you may try loosening the lock nut and adjusting the position on that bolt and then tightening it back up.

 

thank you for your time and suggestion. Yes the bolt is new. And the adjustment is as tight as possible. So I would be lengthening the rod. Do you know how much I should lengthen it?

 

Unfortunately I do not know the exact specs. But I would a few turns at a time, and just observe over the course of normal driving. It's not going to hurt anything, it just affects the way the turbo spools up. Ideally at some point you won't have any lights pop when you're giving it the business.

 

Thank you very much.

 

This video is good for a description of the P2263 error code (boost expected vs. boost detected) and the graphs from his scan tool are helpful to understand all the parts that can play a role in the problem. Since your turbo is new I wouldn't expect a wear problem with the variable flow control linkage eyelet or pin. Also, the bad gas mileage and fuel trim is a clue to what the problem may be and that's where I think where you should focus first. Carefully check all intake hoses from the air cleaner box to the throttle body and this is where a smoke machine would be helpful. There are three solenoid valves that control the boost, bypass, wastegate and boost control (exhaust flap to direct flow to different areas of twin scroll) and all the associated hoses. I wouldn't think the boost control solenoids would be the cause of the bad gas mileage but it's possible. Did the problem begin all of a sudden and is it pretty consistent under certain driving conditions?

TURBO Problem Disables AWD? (Acura RDX) - YouTube

 

Hi, thank you so much for your time and help. And the video also. I had watched this video when the problem first started in hopes of finding out my problem. I also think I jumped the gun on the bad gas Mileage as I'm averaging 20 mpg. And from my research that seems to be ideal with the mpg when the RDX was new. It still stumbles a little when starting and has to catch up sometimes for a few seconds but then idles steady perfectly. I've watched the fuel trims when driving and they don't necessarily get better like you would see with a vacuum leak. I'm really leaning towards it being one of the solenoids as you mentioned. Because if I clear the code I can ride around for a week without the code popping up or set as pending if i drive lightly. But if I reset the code then go out and get on it like as if I were getting on the throttle to pull out in traffic it will almost instantly pop up as pending and the next time or two I get on the throttle again the code will set. But if I drive normally the code will not come on. And all monitors will set except the evap.

 

What are the fuel trim percentages you're seeing under different driving conditions?

 

OK so it's making a liar out of me. All the monitors have set but these are the freeze frame data.

 

FTs at idle are
STFT -3.1
LTFT -3.9
If I give it throttle up to 2 grand
STFT goes up to -10.0 but then it works its way back down.
LTFT goes up to -5.5
then when I come to a stop the fuel trims go back to
STFT -4.7
LTFT -5.5

 

With negative fuel trim percentages the engine control module and sensors are detecting a too rich condition. It might be a good idea to clean the MAF and maybe pull the plugs to see if it's related to a single cylinder (injector?). Not sure if this problem is also related to the P2263 code but I recall from the video the MAF sensor is used to measure the intake air flow when checking expected boost pressure within the amount of time expected. If there's a problem is the MAF sensor then maybe the problems could be related. Only clean the MAF with MAF sensor cleaner to avoid damaging the sensor.
The P2263 code is not a simple code to diagnose if it's not an obvious problem like the worn eyelet bolt or pin or a problem with any of the hoses in the air flow path or the hoses controlling the solenoid valve and actuators. You have the three solenoid valves, the bypass valve, the boost control and wastegate actuators, MAF, Baro and Turbo boost pressure sensors so a good scanner may be needed to help find the problem if a visual check doesn't find anything wrong.

 

I have cleaned the maf with crc maf sensor cleaner. The plugs are brand new oem plugs.
I have a

Autel Scanner MaxiCOM MK808Z-TS scan tool coming tomorrow so hopefully that will help.

I greatly appreciate your time and help, I can't wait to figure it out. It runs great besides the startup and CEL.

 

I'll be interested in how your new Autel scanner performs; it should help out a great deal with the debug.

 

Did you check if you have any cracks along the air duct (the black hose that runs after the MAF sensor to the intake). These tend to crack over time given they are plastic, and it may not be obvious to see.

Any help through the scan tool?