DIY – problems occurring before 100K miles, FLUID LEVEL
10-24-2014, 01:36 AM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
DIY – problems occurring before 100K miles, FLUID LEVEL
This is the first in a series. Search on the title to find the others.
All problems listed below have been reported by one or more posts on this forum. Most systems affected are not covered by the MID (maintenance information display). Therefore, following the MID for maintenance will *not* prevent the problems discussed below.
Whether your vehicle will encounter these problems, before reaching 100K miles, will depend upon how the vehicle is operated (city/ highway), temperature conditions where you live, and luck.
If you drive 90% city miles under 10-miles per trip, in very hot or cold conditions, the parts on your vehicle can wear 10 times faster than if you drive 90% highway miles and over 10-miles per trip.
Luck also counts, because vehicle parts are designed with a specific operational life – engineers call it MTBF (mean time between failure). The important term is MEAN, which is a mathematical way of saying *average*. So, half the parts will fail before the specified operational life – and half will last longer. Usually 90% of the parts are supposed to fail within +/-10% of the MTBF. But, if you are unlucky, your car will contain one or more of those parts that fails earlier.
If a part fails very early, then you are covered by the Acura/ Honda warranty. But if a part fails after the warranty period, but before 100K, you probably expected it to last longer. You cannot predict when a part might fail, but you can take steps to avoid early part failure, and the resulting consequences.
The consequences of unexpected parts failure, can range from being stranded, to resulting secondary very expensive repairs.
PREVENTATIVE MAINTENANCE
Most problems can be avoided by preventative maintenance. Or you can wait for a parts failure – that is called repair. Its your choice.
CHECK ALL FLUID LEVELS ONCE PER MONTH
Once per week is better, and can be completed in under 5 minutes on a cold engine – an engine that has sat overnight for at least 8 hours. A cold check will provide a fairly consistent level check, even though the fluids are cold, and the ambient temperature may vary.
ENGINE OIL
WASHER FLUID
POWER STEERING FLUID
ENGINE COOLANT
TRANSMISSION ATF
BATTERY WATER
BRAKE FLUID
ENGINE OIL LEVEL
A level check will let you know if the engine has an oil leak, or if the engine is *burning* oil. Even if there are both problems, the engine can still last a long time, so long as the oil level is kept topped-up. No oil, and the engine dies.
The distance between the two marks (holes) on the dip-stick, the FILL and the FULL marks, represents 1-quart. The letters UP are molded into the *top* of the dip-stick yellow pull-ring. The dip stick can only be inserted in one way. Its much longer than usual, and should be guided during insertion, by holding the blade, to prevent bending.
Clean oil can be very difficult to see on the dip-stick. Use light reflected from the oil on the dip-stick. I check inside my garage, and use the overhead garage light to reflect the oil mark on the dip-stick. Sunlight is too bright. Each side of the dip-stick will have a different oil level: the LOWEST level is the valid one.
A warm engine oil-level check is the only valid consistent and repeatable check. Warm coolant (engine temp) is *not* the same as warm oil. Oil takes much longer to warm to operating temperature.
For a warm oil-level check, drive the vehicle 1/2 hour, park on a level spot, wait 5-mintues, then check the oil level. A cold level check will read about 2-4 ounces less than a warm level check, depending upon the air temperature – is it zero or 100 degrees?
LINK: how to read the dip-stick
https://acurazine.com/forums/diy-faq-161/engine-oil-change-comments-786064/
WASHER FLUID
I prefer the Orange flavor, because that color is easiest to see through the white washer container. Using a strong light, look at the washer container, and fill to the bottom of the fill tube. You can fill to the top of the fill tube, but the excess fluid will just splash out, making a mess.
During the winter, make certain to use only a winter fluid. A summer fluid will freeze (in the winter), and break the pumps or even crack the fluid tank.
POWER STEERING FLUID
Do not remove the fill cap, unless adding fluid.
With the engine cold, fill to the top line of the PS fluid container. If the level falls to the lower fill-mark within a year, there is a leak in the system. Again, there will be some minor level change, depending upon how the air temperature changes.
Shine a strong light through the side of the PS fluid container. New fluid is an almost clear light tan color. If the color is dark yellow/ tan, the fluid is getting dirty. If the fluid is very dark or black, it needs to be replaced.
Old fluid has depleted its additives. Additives prevent wear to the pump and steering rack, and the rubber seals. Also, the only way to remove wear-particles from the old fluid, is to either change the fluid, or add an inline filter to the return hose. There is a *filter* in the PS tank, but its just a plastic screen about like home window screen.
LINK: why is Honda PS fluid different? Viscosity comparison in post #33
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=873709
LINK: AmsOil PS fluid vs Redline PS fluid, post #41
https://acurazine.com/forums/third-generation-tl-2004-2008-93/best-fluids-episode-ii-attack-paycheck-873709/page2/
ENGINE COOLANT
With the engine cold, fill to the MAX line of the radiator overflow tank. Make certain that the fill cap is firmly tightened, but not over tightened – its just plastic. If the tank level falls more than about 1-inch over a year, there is a leak in the system. Find it.
At least once per month, remove the radiator cap, with the engine cold. If the level is not at the very top of the fill neck, there is a leak in the system. Find it. Yes, the radiator can completely drain, while the level in the overflow tank remains constant. The engine can overheat and suffer serious damage, because of a leak in the coolant system, while the overflow tank shows no change in fluid level.
For top-up its easiest to just use genuine Honda Coolant type-II, as it is already mixed 50:50 with distilled water. It can only be purchased in gallons, and is expensive, especially just for top-up. But its your car, and your money.
LINK: general discussion of different coolant types
http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/841/coolant-fundamentals
TRANSMISSION ATF
The distance between the two marks (holes) on the dip-stick, the FILL and the FULL marks, represents 8-ounces. If the level drops over a period of time, there is either a leak, or the fluid is being depleted (burned off). Are you waiting 60K miles between ATF drains? Or longer? ATF additives become depleted, and the fluid itself fills with clutch wear-particles (carbon-fiber), which are very abrasive.
If the ATF fluid level drops too low, the transmission can be damaged. If the ATF level is too high, the vehicle may creep forward in Neutral. It should be obvious that slightly too full is not much of a problem, but too low can be very bad. Keep the level topped-up to (near) the FULL mark.
A warm transmission level check is the only valid consistent and repeatable check. Read the Owner Manual for the procedure. The procedure takes time, is tedious, and is difficult to repeat.
A cold level check will read about 2-4 ounces less than a warm level check, depending upon the air temperature – is it zero or 100 degrees?
LINK: how to read the transmission oil level
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=801122
BATTERY WATER
If the water level falls too low, the battery cells can short-out, and the battery dies permanently – this can also cause an ugly electrical fire.
A cheap battery like the CostCo Kirkland that I use in my own vehicles, requires water twice per year. Better batteries may never require the addition of water.
LINK: checking battery water level, post #7
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?p=13847681#post13847681
BRAKE FLUID
Do not remove the fill cap, unless adding fluid. Brake fluid is hydroscopic, attracts water from the air, and every effort must be made to prevent this.
The fluid level will drop as the brake pads wear. If the level drops quickly over a short period, check the wear on the pads, as they may require replacement. Using a strong light, look at the brake pads through the wheel openings.
New Honda brake fluid is a transparent light yellow color. If the fluid is dark, it contains water, will corrode brake parts, and must be replaced. If the ABS controller becomes corroded, it is very expensive to replace.
Honda requires brake fluid replacement every 3-years. If you live where there is a lot of rain and high humidity, fluid should be replaced every year – I do so myself.
LINK: brake fluid comparison
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?p=14151537#post14151537
HOW TO READ DATE CODES
Reading date codes on parts and fluids can be helpful. Fluids do have a shelf life, while hard parts generally do not.
LINK: fluid shelf life and date code deciphering
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=775691
----eof
All problems listed below have been reported by one or more posts on this forum. Most systems affected are not covered by the MID (maintenance information display). Therefore, following the MID for maintenance will *not* prevent the problems discussed below.
Whether your vehicle will encounter these problems, before reaching 100K miles, will depend upon how the vehicle is operated (city/ highway), temperature conditions where you live, and luck.
If you drive 90% city miles under 10-miles per trip, in very hot or cold conditions, the parts on your vehicle can wear 10 times faster than if you drive 90% highway miles and over 10-miles per trip.
Luck also counts, because vehicle parts are designed with a specific operational life – engineers call it MTBF (mean time between failure). The important term is MEAN, which is a mathematical way of saying *average*. So, half the parts will fail before the specified operational life – and half will last longer. Usually 90% of the parts are supposed to fail within +/-10% of the MTBF. But, if you are unlucky, your car will contain one or more of those parts that fails earlier.
If a part fails very early, then you are covered by the Acura/ Honda warranty. But if a part fails after the warranty period, but before 100K, you probably expected it to last longer. You cannot predict when a part might fail, but you can take steps to avoid early part failure, and the resulting consequences.
The consequences of unexpected parts failure, can range from being stranded, to resulting secondary very expensive repairs.
PREVENTATIVE MAINTENANCE
Most problems can be avoided by preventative maintenance. Or you can wait for a parts failure – that is called repair. Its your choice.
CHECK ALL FLUID LEVELS ONCE PER MONTH
Once per week is better, and can be completed in under 5 minutes on a cold engine – an engine that has sat overnight for at least 8 hours. A cold check will provide a fairly consistent level check, even though the fluids are cold, and the ambient temperature may vary.
ENGINE OIL
WASHER FLUID
POWER STEERING FLUID
ENGINE COOLANT
TRANSMISSION ATF
BATTERY WATER
BRAKE FLUID
ENGINE OIL LEVEL
A level check will let you know if the engine has an oil leak, or if the engine is *burning* oil. Even if there are both problems, the engine can still last a long time, so long as the oil level is kept topped-up. No oil, and the engine dies.
The distance between the two marks (holes) on the dip-stick, the FILL and the FULL marks, represents 1-quart. The letters UP are molded into the *top* of the dip-stick yellow pull-ring. The dip stick can only be inserted in one way. Its much longer than usual, and should be guided during insertion, by holding the blade, to prevent bending.
Clean oil can be very difficult to see on the dip-stick. Use light reflected from the oil on the dip-stick. I check inside my garage, and use the overhead garage light to reflect the oil mark on the dip-stick. Sunlight is too bright. Each side of the dip-stick will have a different oil level: the LOWEST level is the valid one.
A warm engine oil-level check is the only valid consistent and repeatable check. Warm coolant (engine temp) is *not* the same as warm oil. Oil takes much longer to warm to operating temperature.
For a warm oil-level check, drive the vehicle 1/2 hour, park on a level spot, wait 5-mintues, then check the oil level. A cold level check will read about 2-4 ounces less than a warm level check, depending upon the air temperature – is it zero or 100 degrees?
LINK: how to read the dip-stick
https://acurazine.com/forums/diy-faq-161/engine-oil-change-comments-786064/
WASHER FLUID
I prefer the Orange flavor, because that color is easiest to see through the white washer container. Using a strong light, look at the washer container, and fill to the bottom of the fill tube. You can fill to the top of the fill tube, but the excess fluid will just splash out, making a mess.
During the winter, make certain to use only a winter fluid. A summer fluid will freeze (in the winter), and break the pumps or even crack the fluid tank.
POWER STEERING FLUID
Do not remove the fill cap, unless adding fluid.
With the engine cold, fill to the top line of the PS fluid container. If the level falls to the lower fill-mark within a year, there is a leak in the system. Again, there will be some minor level change, depending upon how the air temperature changes.
Shine a strong light through the side of the PS fluid container. New fluid is an almost clear light tan color. If the color is dark yellow/ tan, the fluid is getting dirty. If the fluid is very dark or black, it needs to be replaced.
Old fluid has depleted its additives. Additives prevent wear to the pump and steering rack, and the rubber seals. Also, the only way to remove wear-particles from the old fluid, is to either change the fluid, or add an inline filter to the return hose. There is a *filter* in the PS tank, but its just a plastic screen about like home window screen.
LINK: why is Honda PS fluid different? Viscosity comparison in post #33
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=873709
LINK: AmsOil PS fluid vs Redline PS fluid, post #41
https://acurazine.com/forums/third-generation-tl-2004-2008-93/best-fluids-episode-ii-attack-paycheck-873709/page2/
ENGINE COOLANT
With the engine cold, fill to the MAX line of the radiator overflow tank. Make certain that the fill cap is firmly tightened, but not over tightened – its just plastic. If the tank level falls more than about 1-inch over a year, there is a leak in the system. Find it.
At least once per month, remove the radiator cap, with the engine cold. If the level is not at the very top of the fill neck, there is a leak in the system. Find it. Yes, the radiator can completely drain, while the level in the overflow tank remains constant. The engine can overheat and suffer serious damage, because of a leak in the coolant system, while the overflow tank shows no change in fluid level.
For top-up its easiest to just use genuine Honda Coolant type-II, as it is already mixed 50:50 with distilled water. It can only be purchased in gallons, and is expensive, especially just for top-up. But its your car, and your money.
LINK: general discussion of different coolant types
http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/841/coolant-fundamentals
TRANSMISSION ATF
The distance between the two marks (holes) on the dip-stick, the FILL and the FULL marks, represents 8-ounces. If the level drops over a period of time, there is either a leak, or the fluid is being depleted (burned off). Are you waiting 60K miles between ATF drains? Or longer? ATF additives become depleted, and the fluid itself fills with clutch wear-particles (carbon-fiber), which are very abrasive.
If the ATF fluid level drops too low, the transmission can be damaged. If the ATF level is too high, the vehicle may creep forward in Neutral. It should be obvious that slightly too full is not much of a problem, but too low can be very bad. Keep the level topped-up to (near) the FULL mark.
A warm transmission level check is the only valid consistent and repeatable check. Read the Owner Manual for the procedure. The procedure takes time, is tedious, and is difficult to repeat.
A cold level check will read about 2-4 ounces less than a warm level check, depending upon the air temperature – is it zero or 100 degrees?
LINK: how to read the transmission oil level
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=801122
BATTERY WATER
If the water level falls too low, the battery cells can short-out, and the battery dies permanently – this can also cause an ugly electrical fire.
A cheap battery like the CostCo Kirkland that I use in my own vehicles, requires water twice per year. Better batteries may never require the addition of water.
LINK: checking battery water level, post #7
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?p=13847681#post13847681
BRAKE FLUID
Do not remove the fill cap, unless adding fluid. Brake fluid is hydroscopic, attracts water from the air, and every effort must be made to prevent this.
The fluid level will drop as the brake pads wear. If the level drops quickly over a short period, check the wear on the pads, as they may require replacement. Using a strong light, look at the brake pads through the wheel openings.
New Honda brake fluid is a transparent light yellow color. If the fluid is dark, it contains water, will corrode brake parts, and must be replaced. If the ABS controller becomes corroded, it is very expensive to replace.
Honda requires brake fluid replacement every 3-years. If you live where there is a lot of rain and high humidity, fluid should be replaced every year – I do so myself.
LINK: brake fluid comparison
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?p=14151537#post14151537
HOW TO READ DATE CODES
Reading date codes on parts and fluids can be helpful. Fluids do have a shelf life, while hard parts generally do not.
LINK: fluid shelf life and date code deciphering
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=775691
----eof
The following users liked this post:
Tomtwtwtw (10-24-2014)
10-24-2014, 10:03 AM
#2
I don't think power steering fluid is even mentioned in the maintenance breakdown, either by the letter-number group or as a side item. What's your take on recommended replacement intervals? I was thinking of just grouping it with the recommended brake fluid flush. Or would you just say go by color of the fluid?
10-24-2014, 08:45 PM
#3
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I don't think power steering fluid is even mentioned in the maintenance breakdown, either by the letter-number group or as a side item. What's your take on recommended replacement intervals? I was thinking of just grouping it with the recommended brake fluid flush. Or would you just say go by color of the fluid?
LINK: all about the PS system and PM
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=828859
10-27-2014, 12:19 AM
#4
Thank you - very informative post. My brake fluid is looking pretty dark through the tank when compared with my S2000 that just had the fluid replaced. The power steering fluid isn't much better.
Been searching on this site for a DIY on the PS fluid, but can't seem to find one. ??
My local Acura dealer has a $170 "special" this month to change PS fluid. That doesn't include tax or hazmat disposal fee. Aaahh the joys of Marin County where Acuras are for poor slobs like me.
Been searching on this site for a DIY on the PS fluid, but can't seem to find one. ??
My local Acura dealer has a $170 "special" this month to change PS fluid. That doesn't include tax or hazmat disposal fee. Aaahh the joys of Marin County where Acuras are for poor slobs like me.
10-27-2014, 10:05 AM
#5
I'd say look around for a mechanic that specializes in Honda (or Japanese) autos...can usually get the same or better quality work done for much less than a dealership. The shop by me did a brake flush and transmission flush on my wife's Fit for under 100 bucks. My brother has been using them for over 10 years (they have a '99 CR-V with 275k and a '08 CR-V with 150k), so I definitely trust in their work.
10-27-2014, 11:47 PM
#6
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
DIY Power Steering Bleed OR Flush AND how to install a filter
Read the following link for the information you want. If you have questions about the following thread, post your questions there, not here.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=828859
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=828859
The following users liked this post:
Kaputnik (10-30-2014)
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