Finished Complete Audio Makeover 2011 RDX
#1
Finished Complete Audio Makeover 2011 RDX
I just finished a complete 7 speaker (non tech pack) factory replacement audio upgrade in my wife's 2011 RDX.
I had quite a struggle finding any information on the vehicle over the Internet, but, through many sources was able to pull it together nicely. Successful 2 amp + factory sub swap + door speakers and tweeters upgrade.
I signed up here to shed some light to anyone that may have questions because the web needs some more searchable info for these vehicles.
I'm no car audio expert, but the install came out nicely (in my opinion) and I would like to give back to the community.
System upgrade component list: (Modest System)
Door Speakers:
- NVX XFLOC 4 Line out converter for factory head unit RCA out to speaker 4-Channel amplifier.
- Sony XMN1004 4/3/2 Channel 1000watt Amp (Used as 4 channel to run door speakers - 70w RMS X 4)
- JBL GTO638 3-Way Coaxial Speakers (6 3/4" Speakers - 60w RMS ea. replaced front & rear doors | driver & passenger side)
- Scosche SAHC634 Speaker Mounting Brackets for door mounting coax speakers.
- Metra 72-7800 Speaker Wiring Harness adapters to retain factory door speaker connectors and wire new coax speakers.
Tweeters:
JBL GTO19T 3/4" tweeters
Subwoofer:
- Pioneer TS-SW2002D2 8" 150W RMS @ 4ohms dual voice coil shallow mount sub
- Kicker 12CX3001 monoblock 150W RMS @ 4ohms
- Kicker 12CXRC sub level remote
- Kicker KISL speaker wire to RCA adapter for factory speaker wire coversion to RCA of subwoofer amplifier input
Wires and connectors:
- Kicker PK4 (4 gauge amp wiring kit) for primary lead wire from battery as well as speaker amp power wire.
- NVX 8 gauge amp wiring kit for subwoofer amplifier connection.
- Bullz Audio power distribution block for splitting the 4 gauge primary power to said amplifiers via 8 gauge & 4 gauge paths.
- Scosche EBS4-4 4 Gauge Spade terminal crimps for proper terminal connection to speaker amplifier via 4 gauge
- Stinger SPT5118 PRO 8 gauge spade terminal crimps for proper terminal connection to subwoofer amplifier via 8 gauge.
- Wire crimps to avoid direct soldering LOC etc
------------------------------------------------
Tools needed:
Small ratchet and short 10mm socket
Philips screwdriver
Plastic door pop panel tool
Wire connector crimps
Wire strippers
Flush dikes
Razor knife and blades
Zip ties
I will leave it there for now and open it up to any questions if had. Hope this can help some people.
Cheers.
I had quite a struggle finding any information on the vehicle over the Internet, but, through many sources was able to pull it together nicely. Successful 2 amp + factory sub swap + door speakers and tweeters upgrade.
I signed up here to shed some light to anyone that may have questions because the web needs some more searchable info for these vehicles.
I'm no car audio expert, but the install came out nicely (in my opinion) and I would like to give back to the community.
System upgrade component list: (Modest System)
Door Speakers:
- NVX XFLOC 4 Line out converter for factory head unit RCA out to speaker 4-Channel amplifier.
- Sony XMN1004 4/3/2 Channel 1000watt Amp (Used as 4 channel to run door speakers - 70w RMS X 4)
- JBL GTO638 3-Way Coaxial Speakers (6 3/4" Speakers - 60w RMS ea. replaced front & rear doors | driver & passenger side)
- Scosche SAHC634 Speaker Mounting Brackets for door mounting coax speakers.
- Metra 72-7800 Speaker Wiring Harness adapters to retain factory door speaker connectors and wire new coax speakers.
Tweeters:
JBL GTO19T 3/4" tweeters
Subwoofer:
- Pioneer TS-SW2002D2 8" 150W RMS @ 4ohms dual voice coil shallow mount sub
- Kicker 12CX3001 monoblock 150W RMS @ 4ohms
- Kicker 12CXRC sub level remote
- Kicker KISL speaker wire to RCA adapter for factory speaker wire coversion to RCA of subwoofer amplifier input
Wires and connectors:
- Kicker PK4 (4 gauge amp wiring kit) for primary lead wire from battery as well as speaker amp power wire.
- NVX 8 gauge amp wiring kit for subwoofer amplifier connection.
- Bullz Audio power distribution block for splitting the 4 gauge primary power to said amplifiers via 8 gauge & 4 gauge paths.
- Scosche EBS4-4 4 Gauge Spade terminal crimps for proper terminal connection to speaker amplifier via 4 gauge
- Stinger SPT5118 PRO 8 gauge spade terminal crimps for proper terminal connection to subwoofer amplifier via 8 gauge.
- Wire crimps to avoid direct soldering LOC etc
------------------------------------------------
Tools needed:
Small ratchet and short 10mm socket
Philips screwdriver
Plastic door pop panel tool
Wire connector crimps
Wire strippers
Flush dikes
Razor knife and blades
Zip ties
I will leave it there for now and open it up to any questions if had. Hope this can help some people.
Cheers.
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