I did all the mounts except the transmission mount, and wanted to give a quick write up.

The anchor brand motor mounts are garbage. The side mount had all sorts of things wrong with it. I would not recommend using it. It doesn't even appear to be hydraulic like they claim. I used a oreilly side motor mount, which seems ok. It comes with a life time warranty. I don't know if it's worth saving the money over OEM. Oreilly was same day delivery, so I went that route. Both the Oreilly and anchor side mount came with a detent nub in the wrong location, which i cut off.

BE CAREFUL with torque, the listed toque for the mounts aren't that high. I think it's like 50 ft/lb. The anchor mount stripped out with a 3/8 hand ratchet. I was definitely under 50 foot pounds. The O'Reilly mount also started to feel like it was giving out with 3/8 ratchet hand tightening.

I have attached the Acura Service Manual guide. Link To Service Manual for this job, I was unable to upload images due to error. https://imgur.com/a/9lSCbny



I would make changes on what the guide says.
1. I would remove the bottom toque rod first. ( I had issues with having the bottom torque mounts cross threading, either the previous person who changes this over torqued the bolts, or jacking up on the engine made the bolts cross thread. I had to buy a new mount plate and bolts)
2. before replacing the side mount, I had to loosen bolts over at the transmission mount to get it to line up, there is space to pry against the transmission to get the side mount lined up.
3. for the bottom torque rod, you will need to pry with a board against the engine and steering rack. doesn't take a lot of effort.

The bottom torque rod sucks. A brand New OEM rod has WAY too much movement. FYI this rod can look fine but still be bad. I plan to make a DIY polyurethane mount in the future.

***** Link to Service Manual https://imgur.com/a/9lSCbny **********

 

Why did you change yours?

 

the engine was bouncing around like crazy. you could really feel it when stopping and on acceleration. The stock torque mounts suck, and I will be making PE torque mounts when it gets warm.

 

I am replacing my engine and thought I would do the mount at the same time. Did you make an improved design? Doesn’t sound like there are any good options based on your write up.

 

improved design? it seems like several non-OEM side engine mounts have an incorrent nub on the mount the needs to be cut off. not sure what your question is.

 

Oh I thought you said you were going to make your own. Was wondering if you did and how it went

 

Just curious, is the red arrow pointing to the 'nub' you are referring to?

 

I had all mine replaced because 15 years old and I went with factory. Nobody makes upgraded or I would have gone with those. I've had trouble with parts store replacements before when doing power upgrades.

 

yeah, that's the nub.

 

Thanks to OP - comments really helped with replacements on my 2010 RDX.

Starting with the lower torque rod is VERY good advice. Simplest to access, hardest to get bolted back in. What worked for me was the use of an engine bar on top, and a jack below that allowed a fore and aft twisting motion of the engine to line up the bolt holds.

Mounts from Amazon must be from the same place as OP’s - I made all the same mods:
1. Ground down metal bushings to match the width of the OEM parts
2. Enlarged the hole in the lower torque rod ear to allow both bolts to seat. (Test fit your part before installing to make sure the bolts will go through the hole, even with no tension on the torque bar.)
3. Ground off the improperly placed nub on top of the new side engine mount

I did before and after videos:
A cup of water sitting on the engine during idle
View of the engine while shifting between drive and reverse

Honestly I don’t see much difference. There was much more ride improvement from replacing shocks and sway bar links and bushings. But not sorry I did the work: after 16 years the old mounts were very dried out and stiff.

Other tips:
When the old side mount is out it’s a great time to replace the serpentine belt which is otherwise hard to access.

Don’t use a portable drill to tighten the 4 cover screws on the air cleaner box - I snapped off two of them!

While tightening mount bolts I bumped off one of the hood cushion bumpers - reinstalling pointed out that they’re also now hard as rocks - time to replace.

 

^All good advice.

I'll add: don't use an impact to take out the bolt holding the upper torque rod to the frame. There is a captive nut on the bottom flange coming off the frame and if you break the weld on that you're in for a loooong day. Ask me how I know

In general I find the best way to get stuck motor mount bolts out is a ton of penetrating oil and sloooow and steady with a big breaker bar. These bolts don't usually just break free and then come out easily. Even after you break the initial rust weld, they are still extremely tight, and most of the time there's a captive nut on the frame that's not so easy to replace if you break the bolt.



Also a good time to inspect and possibly replace the VTC oil control solenoid while you're in there.