gmahn

While having someone step on the gas a little while the car is in D, my engine is flopping around a bit; however, it’s only the front passenger side of the engine that seems to be moving up some. It doesn’t move when the car is put in reverse so it would have to be the front or side mount.

My question... which is broken? Is it the front hydraulic mount (by the radiator), the rubber mount on the side (by the timing belt), or both?

The front mount checks out OK by holding a vacuum for at least 20 seconds (as advised by the service manual) and there is no “goo” oozing out of it (that I can see). The side mount looks like it’s moving too much while goosing the throttle w/ the transmission in D. Maybe the front mount is broken causing the side mount to over extend??

Yes, I’m fixing this myself and will not be hiring the dealership to fleece me.

For those that have done this before on their own... any tips?

Thanks for your input!

ThinJim

iTrader: (3)

It's probably the front motor mount, it takes the brunt of abuse, you can usually tell if it's collasped by looking at it and it does't have to be leaking to be broke. here are some tips for the front mount as I havnt' bothered with the side one.

It's a pain in the ass unless yoou have a lift. otherwise , put the car on jacks, have the floor jack handy with a block of wood, use this to support the motor by placing it under the oil pan, (or use what acura uses, an engine bar that supports the motor from the top) Then take off the center nut on the mount. crawl underneith and remove the radius rod from the front beam, Remove the front beam, about 8 bolts on this one if I remember. the mounts about a buck and a half. doing it yourself will save you about 200.00 for labor, but it sucky work, never again.

typeR

the side mount is the most frequent to fail the one by the PS pump...easy way to tell is open the hood and look below the cruise control device ...if you see what looks like where rusty water splashed inside the engine bay in that area ...thats the side mount spilling its contents...might want to fill it making sure to fill the inside of the lower section of the side mount

gmahn

Thanks for your replies! Got home from work and took out the front hydraulic mount. Sure enough, that top bolt is half-way separated from the mount.

Really only took about 45 minutes to pull. Ended up removing the engine to mount bracket too. Also, removing the heat shield on the manifold helps clear up some space to work.

Cerritos Acura has the mount for $117 and I have a coupon for $15 off parts so not too bad there. Apparently there is a revised mount (50800-SOK-A82) that Acura is selling now since the original part broke so often. Got the same explanation from 3 different parts guys at different dealerships so who knows.

Thanks again guys. Will let you know how it goes.

typeR

check the passenger side mount as well, it too is hydraulic just not vacuum acctuated...and if you could provide pics of the new mount

quicksilver10101

i have rusty watter all ova the pas. side f my engine bay...dealer told me it was a hole in the ps hose about 6 months ago but istill have fluid in the resevoir so this makes me think twice

quicksilver10101

u guys think it ius under extende warranty?

typeR

its the side mount i have picture maybe ill up load them

typeR

slightly torn side mount

http://public.fotki.com/typeR/typer/picture_002.html

http://public.fotki.com/typeR/typer/picture_001.html

ThinJim

iTrader: (3)

my side mount is fine. it's my opinion that the side mount will fail if the front mount is wasted. the front mount when broke will cause more stress on the side which will lead to sure failure.


the flat piece of metal on mine, motor mount, was separated from the rubber, although i didn't have any leaking, it for sure was allowing the motor to flex as can be see on my dyno mpg's that i posted a while back.

in the meantime, i'm going to tear apart this mount and see if it can be modified with a solid piece of rubber and get rid of that oil filled piece of crap.

typeR, pictures no worky

typeR

LINKS FIXED


positive? it often takes pulling it to know for sure...any sign of this rusty mess is a tell tale

typeR

i did this with window weld and also filled the voids between the acctual mount and the metal cap held on by 4 bolts...you'll need 2 tubes and several days to dry

gmahn

That side mount is cracked but still mostly intact. Will probably replace in the near future but I'm almost positive that front mount is what's causing that side mount to over-extend and crack.

As far as the tightening sequence:

1) torque down the engine to mount bolts
2) hand tighten 4 mounting bolts from mount to frame and top nut
3) let engine down and car down off jack-stands and torque to spec once the weight of the engine is resting on the new mount.

Does this sound right? Stupid service manual gives no guidance in this area except for the torque specs.

ThinJim

iTrader: (3)

I removed the entire front beam, changed the mount, 4 bolts hold it to the beam, and wiggled it back up into place. it helps if you have someone there to hold it, but it can be done by yourself. once the beam is back in place, and the bolts to the radius arm and bolts that hold the beam to the car are in place, then drop the motor down. it's not like it's raised up much, just a little as the motor is just supported temp. by the floor jack and block of wood.

As for the side mount on my 6 speed, it appears fine and I see no evidence of leakage. cant' see where they would put fluid in this one. your saying yours leaked? whats up with the rust lookinhg stuf?

typeR

which side mount is cracked but still mostly intact?

typeR

the side mount of the 6mt is the same as for the auto...and as i explained it would be tough to tell if it has failed w/o it's removal with the exception of the rusty liquid signs...the lower section of this web type mount is hollow and filled with the same oil as your front vacuum assisted mount..

ThinJim

iTrader: (3)

Those side mount look like their an easy candidate for filling with an epoxy. I'd bet you could send it to an aftermarket motor mount company and have it easily reproduced with a stronger material.

typeR

no doubt ...also there is another product that is a 2 part expoxy urethane sytem with multiple Shore ratings for desired hardness that i think could easily be done by a DIY'er but filling the side mount with window weld is very easy and semingly very effective.

gmahn

The one by the p/s pump. It' still intact but I can see cracks forming when I raise the engine up w/ a jack. Probably from being over-extended by the broken front mount.



ThinJim - Your description doesn't quite match what I went through on my a/t. I'm guessing you have the 6-speed?

<edit> My bad... I see you mention it's a 6-speed.

typeR

the lower section of that mount is liquid filled and if it has tourn its ability help stabilize the engine is diminished greatly

CleanCL

iTrader: (4)

how did you get the engine up? anyway to replace the mounts without this.. i dont have an engine hoist.

the side mount by ps pump looks awfully hard to get out. i'd love to get new mounts and fill them with poly and just swap out my old ones, but im not sure if i can do it by myself (if engine needs to be lifted).

av6ent

02AV6 has poly ones (DIY) and he said it's great. Here are before/after




As far as removing mounts, I'm sure you can use jacks to lift the engine and remove them, but I'd rather go to a shop who's got all the tools.

typeR

the sid emount is cake just floor jack the engine alittle and unbolt the cruise controler