Can anyone tell me what the heck this is? Some sort of pre filter? And should this not be sealed in some way so as not to suck hot air from the engine compartment vs cooler air from behind the bumper?​​​​​​​

I popped it open more than it was to show its not sealed

Zoomed out a bit

 

Thats the resonator box that is part of the the airbox assembly. Pulls in cold air from the bottom and helps reduce noise. Just slide the tube back into the opening.

I guess ill be "that guy" but if I had 2 RDXs id just compare the two if I had simple questions like this.

 

So the tube isnt detached it's more like a lid, and why do you assume I've not compared? Both are actually "removable" at this point in thier lives, the point is should they be sealed or not? It seems an odd design if not. I suppose I could have said as much but I was trying to be succinct. And I'm guessing you are often "that guy" but no worries, I appreciate your reply non the less. I'm sometimes that guy too, mostly when I need a Snickers bar. They make them with almonds now you know.

 

calm down ladies

https://www.oemacuraparts.com/v-2008...l--air-cleaner
https://www.oemacuraparts.com/v-2008...r-intake-cover



from these two links is where you see the top air cleaner and the 'bottom' air intake. There shouldn't be anything in there according to the diagram, but I'll let another RDX owner chime in.

 

It may be the top half of the circled part.

 

You are correct, I'm always the guy that points out the obvious. You say both of your RDXs are alike? Thats unfortunately because that means both cars have been disassembled then assembled improperly at some point. What are the odds of that, where do you get your cars? The toilet store? (Anchor Man quote, bc you know, Im capt obvious)

 

Sort of like the toilet store... Craigslist. But since I paid less than $6k combined for both cars I'm not sweating it, especially since this one has been a great car for the last 2 years plus. I think, if the part is supposed to be sealed, then the more likely scenario is that after 10 years and 200,000 plus miles it comes apart. Both of the vehicles were bought from original owner older adults so I doubt they were pulling apart the air intakes. The only reason I noticed it was because I was trying to clean up the engine compartment a bit and when I wiped it, it moved. According to what I've read elsewhere it may actually explain my lack of low end throttle response to some extent. And all because you, captain obvious told me what it was. You were the first to respond after all, even if it was with a bit of snark. So thanks for that good Sir.

 

I don't know if youre serious about thanking me but I'm just yanking your chain brother. I threw in the anchor man quote to lighten the mood. 2 Rdxs for under 6 is a amazing price for a 4wd cuv beater/DD. Applogies if I came off a little brash.

 

No worries man. I was serious about thanking you. You really were the first and told me what it was. It's hard to tell people's intent via typed words so I try to not get riled up and focus on the positive (plus a tiny bit of my own snark maybe). A lot of trolls out there... I am tickled about getting both of them for the price I did. And honestly they aren't even beaters except for the ridiculous mileage. 275k on one and 217k on the other (miles not km lol) Of course something catastrophic could happen at any moment but if so I can basically feel fine about fixing it OR scrapping it.

 

And to asnwer your other questions:

Hondata offers a reflash or flashpro for our cars.
Reflash: send in ECU and they "reflash" it to their tuned calibration and they send it back. Should set you back around $300 plus shipping.
Flashpro: handheld "computer" that comes preinstalled with a few different calibrations depending on mods and their original tuned calibration aka reflash map. It locks onto only 1 vehicle at a time. This is a must if you plan heavy mods as it allows basically unlimited tuning potential as opposed to 1 set, unchangeable map like the reflash. Should set you back around $700 unless you grab a used one. I saw one floating in the black market not too long ago for $550.

I feel as though tune-ups (plugs/coils/ fluids...) will never hurt a car but wont offer anymore performance if that makes sense. It should allow the car to perfom at optimal level as opposed to car with neglected maintenance.

The whining noise you're expierencing could be a number of things but Id look into anything that is spinning/rotating. ( belts, PS pulley, other pulleys) It might also be caused by the disconnected intake tube you pictured since many members remove that bottom portion for a more pronounced sound.

 

Thanks very much, the tune-up I did the other day does seem to have brought some life back to the old girl. Do you have a re-flashed ECU?

 

Flashpro, but I'm at a crossroads. I have a 2010 and there's only 1 map available for my year. 07-09 has 5 or 6 maps available that allows for a more accurate calibration depending on your mods. I want to add an intake and other items but Ive narrowed it down that since there isnt a map for mods on my particular year that it might all be for naught and may not even help it performance wise.

 

Not possible to tweak the one tune for your year based on the previous years tunes? I ask that in total ignorance as I have spent exactly zero minutes tuning ECUs.

 

You're definitely on the right track. I can find a tuner and do a dyno tune to perfect it but I'd hate to sink that much money to tune an intake ya know? I want to do injectors, downpipe, intercooler, etc.. but that wont be for years (hopefully parts are still available, and cheaper by then). My '10 has 60k and I want take my time for now.