In the market for a new ride, and came across a 07 RDX for $16k with 96k miles. Before I purchase, I want to know a few things about it. Please answer ASAP! Thanks!

What is a fair price to pay for this vehicle?

What are the most common problems with this vehicle?

What is something I should look out for while test driving?

Thanks in advance,

Here is a link to the vehicle:
http://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/de...3749/overview/

 

I have a 2011 FWD RDX, but even with that, expect a rough ride over uneven surfaces. She is not a cadillac, but has better handling. Only a five speed, but shifts smoothly. A fun vehicle to drive, with some utility room to boost. The 2007 with the SH-AWD may be a different beast altogether though, but I am in Florida, so no real reason for the AWD. Good uck!

 

I like the 08-09 models the best (personal choice). They made some changes after the 07 models like:
- Auto dim review mirror
- memory seats
- improved Multi-Information Display (M.I.D.)
- Bluetooth standard
- expanded XM traffic
- softer suspension (still a little stiff for some)

Updates are not a big deal if you are the only driver, going to mod the suspension, or don't care about hands-free phone (hands free mandatory in NM)

Common problems I've had or heard about were:
- rattle in speakers
- leaking shocks
- front door locks not working
- rear hatch not unlocking/opening (very rare)
- unusual tire wear (no camber kits for RDX)
- A/C clutch (extended warranty to fix up to 100,000 miles)
- weak XM radio signal (very minor problem)
- condensation in headlights
- broken sunvisors
- weak OEM battery
- worn center arm rest
- worn radiator cap that starts to leak

I've haven't heard about a lot of problems with sh-awd, turbo, exhaust system, engine, or 5AT that would make anyone stay away from a +07 RDX. Having access or knowing the service history is very important. This RDX is due for a lot of service if it hasn't been done that can reach into the high 3 or low 4 digits if it is behind.

I would listen for any noise from A/C area to see if the A/C clutch is making a rattling/clanking/clunking sound, check for any fluid leaks or odd smells from engine bay after a good drive, check of any anti-freeze leaks/residue around cap/hoses, listen for any clunking sounds with the suspension over bumps or hard low speed turns, how the turbo feels when spooling up, and brakes during hard braking. My 08 RDX has +110,000 miles and I have zero problems running another +50,000 miles on her.

Can't tell you about price. I think it depends on how much of the service listed below was done. Pretty much all listed below should have been done or is due very soon (not counting tires, brakes, alignment, interior/exterior condition, etc...):

A: Replace Engine Oil
B: Replace engine oil and oil filter. Inspect various systems and components. (See applicable service manual for details)
Select Additional Service Items
1: Rotate tires and check tire pressure and condition
2: Replace air cleaner element, check drive belt, and replace dust and pollen filter
3: Replace transmission fluid and transfer fluid (if equipped).
4: Replace spark plugs, replace timing belt (if equipped), inspect water pump, and inspect valve clearance.
5: Replace engine coolant.
6: Replace rear differential fluid (if equipped).

 

- A/C clutch (extended warranty to fix up to 100,000 miles)

or 7 years. so it is expired

ran into this problem this year, but a fuse fixed it!

 

That is a good looking RDX with Tech. I got my 07 RDX non-tech in Oct. last year with 108k for $11,500. The reason it was discounted was because it needed the A/C Clutch/Field Coil replacement, serpentine belt and both driver/passenger axle seals replaced. I had all the work done at a local family friends repair shop at a steep discount of $650 for all the parts and labor. The car has been good to me since I bought it and really enjoy driving it. I would go for it if I was you, good luck!

 

I have an '07 w/ 56K.
If you regularly drive rough roads, be ready to get beat up by the ride. Anything more than a small crack will send shudders through the chassis. After 96K, don't know the condition of all the door/window seals, but wind noise is pretty bad in mine. Road noise is pretty bad on anything other than new pavement. Concrete at highway speeds....be ready to crank the radio.
Probably due to stiffness, my front windows both rattle when partially open and there's alot of rattling from the hatch area. And no, I don't have anything back there that didn't come w/ the car.
If you're concerned w/ MPG, this is not the car for you. Since it's so heavy, anything other than feathering the gas will spool up the turbo. I drive a mix of highway and stop/go; get about 21/22 and that's only if I take it easy. If you have to do a lot of merging or shooting gaps, get the Hondata b/c the stock turbo lag is pretty bad.
At least you're getting the tech; I have non-tech and it feels pretty spartan, like a car from the 80's or early 90's. That center armrest looks in pretty rough shape....
These are just shortcomings, but the car is pretty fun to drive and w/ the utility benefit. I wouldn't hesitate to get a '10-'12 if I don't like the new TLX.
Can't think of anything else that hasn't been covered, good luck.

 

I forgot to mention road noise is pretty high for the RDX. Changing tires help a little; but, get use to louder than normal tire roar with the RDX. I treat it like white noise and tune it out most of the time.

 

picked up my 07 at the beginning of the year with 62k and a CPO 2 year/100,000 mile warranty for 17,500. like most are saying, check the a/c clutch, make sure the nav does work, to repair the dvd drive is a couple hundred
problems to far:
-nav didn't work, they replaced for free
-ac clutch did crap out, prior to me realizing that the cpo covered everything, I was only told it was power train. so I replaced myself, but I'm pretty sure they would have replaced
-transmission issue that was kinda related to me replacing ac clutch (long story) but they serviced for free
- at the moment, very intermittently(one or twice a month) I have a check brake light come in between shifts under acceleration, from what I have searched/found on here, there is an aux vac assist for the brakes that works when under boost is most likely at fault. it happens usually when the car is cold/mornings. cycle the key off/on it goes away. I need to make an appt. just haven't had the time

 

I had the same check brake light on my 08 and it was a brake booster sensor that needed to be replaced for about $250. Only came on on extremely cold mornings.

 

good to know, I may schedule something and hint at what it is. don't feel like bringing it there multiple times because they can't replicate issue and refuse to do anything about it.

 

Wow, I have the 2011 under CPO so am not worried yet, but some of these fixes out of warranty can eat your pocketbook alive it seems. Only have 36.5K on mine, so besides the battery and headlight condensation, no other problems. Quick question, at a stoplight, does anyone feel a vibration/surge in the brake pedal for a second or two every 30 seconds or so. It is ever so slight, but it is like the turbo spooled for that second. Hard to describe. , but I need to check my RPM guage to see if it moves.

 

Not sure how many of these carried over into the 2010+ models, but this is what I experienced with my 2007 RDX:

A/C compressor gave to the heat and seized (there was a TSB and I got a partial refund for the work I paid for)
Door locks went out (only the driver's side worked reliably)
Oil leak (slow and I never figured out where it came from)
Sun visor hinge broke on the driver's side
Center console arm rest leather ripped

The good? Other than the slow oil leak, I never had any issues with the power train/drivetrain including the SH-AWD system. Mine was a non-tech model and had 136k miles when I traded it in for my Tacoma.