FlopMeister

Fixed the rough idle. Now the rear drivers side wheel is really hot after driving awhile. Smells like hot brakes. I would guess I have a slightly seized caliper. But I am wondering is there anything else in the rear wheel hub that could be going on? Wheel bearings? Cv shall issues?

oh also, I am now hearing a pronounced high pitched whistle that comes on around 75% boost up to full. Anything under I don’t hear it. It happens consistently. Could I have a vacuum leak? I just changed the spark plugs so I had removed the intercooler.

thoiboi

Get an Ir thermometer and point it at each disc after a drive

FlopMeister

Aw dang it. I got one. But didn’t cross my mind yesterday. I had pizza on my mind.
i had just drove about 12 miles on the highway, got off the highway and then drove another 6 miles at 55mph. So i am hoping i just got a stuck caliper that happened right before I got home and found the issue.
I didn’t hear the noise this morning. But i only drove a mile to get coffee.

DCS

The hot rear driver's side wheel could also be due to the emergency brake being partially on, a difference in adjustment can be mean one wheel may get hot while the other doesn't when the e-brake is partially on. For the high-pitched whistle get an inspection mirror and carefully check the back hose from the turbo outlet to the intercooler, make sure the hose is fully seated on both sides and the clamps are tight. On my car this hose never seems to fully seat on the intercooler side.

FlopMeister

i actually haven’t used the e-brake in awhile. But i will definitely check.

and yes i had difficulty with that back hose; getting on, taking off, tightening.

We have crap weather right now. Expecting a nice day Saturday then i can look into things.

Thanks folks

yanga001

A bit late to the shindig but get under the car, or use an inspection camera to check the pad wearout. My partners drivers side rear caliper seized slightly and wore out one set of pads much faster than the others. I replaced the caliper with a rock auto raysbestos one and everything seems good now. The calipers are much easier to change on these cars as they do not make use of flare nuts for the brake lines. They use banjo fittings which are much nicer to deal with when rust and age is a factor. Change both rear pads, and grease everything down when you do it. My partners RDX bites much harder into the brakes now, and makes my volvo brakes seem weak.

Ill have to check the intercooler hose as my partners car whistles but i assumed it was normal :P


ALSO. The way our caliper seized, it did not cause excessive wearout of the rotor. We did not need to change the rotor, nor did it get to the stage where it chewed up the rotor. Hard braking shows no wobble so i think you can get away with just a caliper and pad replacement if there is still material left on the pads.