Good Morning AZine!

So I have been a happy owner of my 07 TECH (68k miles) for about two weeks now, and last week I ordered/bought all the fluids to flush pretty much everything. Just wanted to report what I encountered.

Bought:
Case of DW-1
6 qt Mobil 1 0w-30
2 cans Seafoam
1 bottle Redline Water Wetter
4 qt DSPF
4 bottles Power Steering fluid
1 big bottle Valvoline Dot 3/4 Brake fluid
2 qt Royal Purple 75-140 Max Gear

Transmission - Couldnt find the fill plug. I ended up having to spray the transmission down with some degreaser and clean it up before I found it. Other than that not too bad. My fluid before changing was pretty clear with an orange tint to it. I checked with the Honda Dealership I bought the car from and they had done a single drain and fill when they got the car. The carfax has pretty much all the service records but does not reflect a transmission flush/drain. The fluid definitely looked like it had not ever been changed.

Oil - Before I changed the oil I happened to look at the window sticker from the previous change, it was from a Valvoline oil change place (my honda dealership uses honda ones) and it said "5w-30 conve" on it. Great, It doesnt say "Mobil 1 or equivalent" on the oil cap or anything. Good thing I seafoamed it 3 days before changing it to break up all the buildup and crap left behind from the obviously cheap oil changes the previous owner did.

Seafoam - I love this stuff. 1 Can in a full tank of gas, half a can in the oil a couple days before changing it, and 1/3 of a can in the brake booster. Feels like a new car again every time. Cant recommend it enough.

Water wetter - I like this stuff, and it can be picked up at my local autozone for 8 bucks a bottle. Here in AZ during the summer we get 115-120 ambient air temps, thats pretty hard on the stock cooling system. I use this for a little extra insurance. I have noticed a difference in my S2000 track car, It does keep the temps down a little more than without it.

DSPF - So when I drained the diff it was definitely not DSPF. I am 99% positive it was ATF. Good thing I was thorough and changed it out (not that it would have hurt anything, but i definitely have piece of mind after replacing it).

Power Steering - Havent flushed this yet, need a buddy to help do it.

Brake Fluid - I always replace the brake fluid in every car I own. Meaning I bleed all the old dirty fluid at each wheel until it runs clear (new fluid). What was different about this time is that it was my first time using a bleeding tool. I bought a mityvac hand pump type brake bleeder at harbor freight for 40 bucks. Im not going to lie, I was pretty impressed at the ability to not have to have a friend help by pumping the brake pedal. I had completely flushed the whole system in 45 minutes.

Diff - It was pretty straight forward. I drained it and filled it. I have had pretty good results with RP in the past, so I picked up some of their "Max Gear" gear oil for the RDX.

If anyone has any questions please let me know. Take it easy guys/gals!

 

I'm just curious why you switched to 0-30w oil. It calls for 5-30 in man. doesn't it?

 

0w30 is better for startup wear protection while maintaining the same protection once up to normal operating temperature.

This is long, but a good read if you're bored. Lots of really good info there. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/

 

Mobil 1 0w30 is NOT approved for use in the RDX. The only Mobil product that meets the HTO-06 specification would be Mobil 1 5w30.

The problem with the previous oil changes ... it wasn't an oil that meets the HTO-06 specification - not even close. That specification is VERY important, it keeps the engine from being damaged. Your typical 5w30 full synthetic isn't even acceptable. FYI, the Acura RDX Ultimate motor oil is a PAO-based synthetic. Odds are good that your engine and turbocharger have suffered premature wear.

You are correct that ATF was in the differential, it was Honda Z-1.

You won't catch me using anything other than OEM Honda/Acura power steering fluid. The formula that Idemitsu produces is very unique and differs from common products.

 

HTO-06 Good to know, Ill do that my next change. the Power steering fluid I got is Honda fluid.

 

First off it looks like you just may be operating in an environment with some extreme hi temps.
Last time I was in Az it was only 115 deg. f. At noon.

What is 0w30 peak temp rated up to? 5w30?
I can't find info.

From Mobil's web site...

Mobil 1 5W-30 meets or exceeds the requirements of:
ACEA A1/B1, A5/B5
API SN, SM, SL, SJ
ILSAC GF-5
Ford WSS-M2C946-A

Mobil 1 5W-30 has the following builder approvals:
General Motors dexos1™
Honda / Acura HTO-06


From their PDS...

Mobil 1 5W-30

Advanced Full Synthetic Engine Oil

Product Description

Mobil 1 5W-30 is an advanced full synthetic engine oil designed to keep your engine running like new by providing exceptional wear protection, cleaning power and overall performance. Mobil 1 5W-30 meets or exceeds the requirements of the industry's toughest standards and outperforms our conventional oils. Mobil 1 technology comes as standard equipment in many different vehicles, including select high-performance vehicles.

Features and Potential Benefits

Mobil 1 5W-30 is made with a proprietary blend of high performance synthetic basestocks fortified with a precisely balanced component system. The 5W-30 viscosity grade is one of the most recommended viscosity grades for new cars. Mobil 1 5W-30 is uniquely designed to help provide unsurpassed levels of performance, cleaning power and engine protection, while meeting the demanding ILSAC GF-5 performance standards.
FeaturesAdvantages and Potential BenefitsAdvanced Full synthetic formulaHelps prevent deposits and sludge build-up to enable long engine life
Excellent overall lubrication and wear protection performance for many driving stylesOutstanding thermal and oxidation stabilityOutstanding performance during the maximum oil change interval recommended in a vehicle’s owners manualEnhanced frictional propertiesAids fuel economyExcellent low temperature capabilitiesQuick cold weather starting for ultra fast protection
Helps to extend engine life

Applications

Mobil 1 5W-30 is recommended for all types of modern vehicles, including high-performance turbo-charged, supercharged gasoline and diesel multi-valve fuel injected engines found in passenger cars, SUVs, light vans and trucks.

• Mobil 1 5W-30 is general purpose engine oil for all types of cars
• Mobil 1 5w-30 is not recommended for 2-Cycle or aviation engines, unless specifically approved by the manufacturer.

Typical Properties

Mobil 1 5W-30


Viscosity @ 100ºC, cSt (ASTM D445) 11.0
Viscosity, @ 40ºC, cSt (ASTM D445) 61.7
Viscosity Index 172
Sulfated Ash, wt% (ASTM D874) 0.8
HTHS Viscosity, mPa•s @ 150ºC (ASTM D4683) 3.1
Pour Point, ºC (ASTM D97) -42
Flash Point, ºC (ASTM D92) 230
Density @15.6 ºC, mg/l (ASTM D4052) 0.855

Typical Properties

Mobil 1 0W-30 Advanced Fuel Economy

Viscosity @ 100ºC, cSt (ASTM D445) 10.9
Viscosity, @ 40ºC, cSt (ASTM D445) 62.9
Viscosity Index 166
Phosphorous (ASTM D4951) 0.065
Sulfated Ash, wt%, (ASTM D874) 0.9
HTHS Viscosity, mPa•s @ 150ºC (ASTM D4683) 3.0
Flash Point, ºC (ASTM D92) 226
Pour Point, ºC (ASTM D97) -50
Total Base Number (ASTM D2896) 9.1
MRV @ -40 ºC (ASTM D4684) 13,250
Density @15.6 ºC, g/ml (ASTM D4052) 0.842


Mobil 1 0W-30 Advanced Fuel Economy SAE Grade0W-30Viscosity @ 100ºC, cSt (ASTM D445)10.9Viscosity, @ 40ºC, cSt (ASTM D445)62.9Viscosity Index166Phosphorous (ASTM D4951)0.065Sulfated Ash, wt%, (ASTM D874)0.9HTHS Viscosity, mPa•s @ 150ºC (ASTM D4683)3.0Flash Point, ºC (ASTM D92)226Pour Point, ºC (ASTM D97)-50Total Base Number (ASTM D2896)9.1MRV @ -40 ºC (ASTM D4684)13,250Density @15.6 ºC, g/ml (ASTM D4052)0.842
Viscosity Index172

Mobil 1 5W-30 SAE Grade5W-30Viscosity @ 100ºC, cSt (ASTM D445)11.0Viscosity, @ 40ºC, cSt (ASTM D445)61.7Viscosity Index172Sulfated Ash, wt% (ASTM D874)0.8HTHS Viscosity, mPa•s @ 150ºC (ASTM D4683)3.1Pour Point, ºC (ASTM D97)-42Flash Point, ºC (ASTM D92)230Density @15.6 ºC, mg/l (ASTM D4052)0.855

 

Both M1 0w30 and M1 5w30 are going to flow at the same approximate rate when at operating temperatures, they are both rated as 30w for summer temperatures.

The M1 5w30 is a heavily vetted formula in that it is approved by Honda as HTO-06 and by GM for dexos1. Those are both very tough standards and much harder to reach than API SN or ILSAC GF-5. Not to mention that the 5w30 is warranty approved, the 0w30 is not.

 

You're going to keep driving it with the wrong oil then?

If it were me in your shoes, I would thank the man, and dump the oil.

Minimize the damage. Leave the filter, dump the oil.
$25 lesson learned.

 

It doesn't necessarily mean that I am going to drive 7k miles before I change it. I simply stated that when I do change it I will use the 5w30 you suggested. The car is parked right now awaiting a new downpipe anyway.

 

Sorry for assuming.

And I see the upside of Az weather - forcast 95f on Columbus Day.

Extended summer, yes.

Mobil has so many different oils now, make sure you get the proper one...

See post # 6 above for the green dexos logo,
look for it on the M1 5w30 front label (bottom @ center)

 

No worries. Yeah, this summer was uncharacteristically cool. It only hit 118ish a few times. We don't really have seasons here, its just summer and not summer lol. Its pretty brutal when its hot out though.


Good info, Ill definitely do that to make sure I get the right one.

 

I just bought the Mityvac hand pump kit and tried doing my 06 TSX last night with the Valvoline Synthetic brake fluid. First, I tried to empty the resevoir in the engine as much as I could and I noticed a lot of chunks and cloudy masses. I figured those would get sucked through as I started on the first brake so I didn't worry. Well, for one thing my hose doesn't stay on the bleeder valve very well as it flares from being on it. This allows a lot of air to get sucked in and I don't end up sucking much fluid out. I spent an hour on the front wheel and was still sucking out cruddy looking fluid. I used over 20 oz of the brake fluid and I was just getting frustrated. The fluid is kind of clear/new but the resevoir is still filled with junk.

Any advice? This is the first time I'm changing the fluid after 5 years and 74k miles! Do I need a power flush or do I need to resort to the two-person method? I don't have much faith in the Mityvac, but I'm going to try using a hose clamp on the bleeder valve to seal better. I don't know.....

Thanks!

 

Mine was pulling some air through too, but it still worked. The main thing is to get the reservoir clean before working on the lines. Otherwise you're just pulling more crux from the reservoir into the lines. Suck the reservoir dry with the mityvac, then fill with clean fluid, gently tap the side of the reservoir with a screwdriver to loosen up as much crap as you can. Then suck it dry and repeat until you are pulling clean fluid from the reservoir. Another option is to suck it dry then take the reservoir off and clean it with a small brush and some brake cleaner. DONT USE WATER!

Now that the reservoir is completely clean bleed your brakes again. It may never come put perfectly clear but anything is better than the nasty crap that comes out.

I may do a DIY on this since I need to do the S2k.

 

If this is the 0w30 AFE, that oil is not made to withstand turbo application, although one fill won't damage anything I'd definitely not use it after this interval. Also I'd strongly go against putting Seafoam in through the brake booster line and oil (fuel should be ok but there alternatives that do better such as Redline S1 Fuel system cleaner)

 

With the mityvac I found it helps seal the hose to the bleeder connection if you put some grease around the nipple of the bleeder.

I use white silicone lube for bikes.

I put a thin bead all the way around the nipple, then slip on the hose.

Also use the vac to m/t the resv and vac any contaminants off the bottom of the resv.

Also use for our other cars that have hyd clutch systems.