c_hunter

$30411 is decent -- I paid $30300. Invoice is $30774. Don't forget to take dealer fees into account -- the dealers in my area charge $399.

$30500 with those two accessories sounds unrealistic; $31300 is more like it. Most places will bargain with the no-labor accessories (mats, cargo tray, wheel locks, etc) but they have little incentive to do it with the accessories that require significant labor (such as the racks and running boards). If you are handy, then just buy the parts wholesale and install yourself.

flar

That depends on whether or not they have service personnel with extra time on their hands. If they have to do the install on your car instead of doing service for some paying customer (or increasing the lead time on their paying customers appointment schedule) then this isn't a zero cost item.

Hoopics

Looks like I have a deal to get a new RDX. I'm holding my breath on the price - I don't want to post what it is until I actually have the keys I think it's that good. Because we started talking lumpsump out-the-door price (incl. taxes and dealer fees as well as accessories) I'll need to see the final paperwork to see what they list the sales price of the car and accessories at, but we may have a new low for the forum. Stay tuned.

Zennypoo

Hi Boken14,

Just wondering if you could post/PM the sales person at B acura to me as well, I'm in the process of shopping for a tech RDX around NJ, thanks.

2Sxy4YoMama

Just came back from the dealer and could not agree on a price on a non-tech CGP. First, the salesman wanted to sell it for $30,873 without accessories and I wanted a roof rack with it at $30,873. Then I said, I said $30,500 with tint because I wanted them to throw something extra in just to make me feel good about the purchase. However, he said $30,689 with tint and counter with $30,600. I told him if they could not swallow $89, then I am leaving and I left. Do you guys think I made a good decision?

Hoopics

I definitely believe in walking on principle. I'll bet you get a call from the guy today, saying he'll meet your price. For what it's worth, I just got my non-tech RDX for $30,760 including destination, roof rack, and runningboards, both installed. I'm surprised he wouldn't give it to you at $30,873 with the roof rack -- that still puts him only a few hundred under invoice, which is what non-Tech's are selling for at the moment. Do you have a different dealer you can try? I'll bet if you say you want the RDX with roofrack AND tint at $30,500, they'd bite at $30,800 or less.

2Sxy4YoMama

I tried a couple over the internet, but only one in person.

Hoopics

See if you can get the deal done before you walk in, and make sure they know they're negotiating against other dealers. I had an out the door price agreed to including accessories before I went in anywhere. Only went to the dealer for test drive and to sign the paperwork. Take that price you walked out on and shop it around by e-mail to the other dealers. Tell them you want them to beat it by X, and the first one to meet your price gets your business. Get them to give you an out the door $ you agree to, and then go in to sign papers at that price. If they add even a single dollar to the price you agreed to in e-mail, scream bait and switch and walk out again.

c_hunter

In general, walking out is a good tactic if done "tastefully" (for lack of a better word). I usually just tell them I have an appt or something and have to leave. What it does (hours or days later) is make them realize they had you in there very close to a deal and puts the onus on them to get negotiations going again, often by cutting you some more slack (especially at the end of the month).

I would not walk out in a huff, or make a potentially inflammatory remark. Sometimes they might be glad to see you go if that is the case! As far as your "swallow $89" logic, they could have asked you the very same question. I stay away from "relative" remarks like that which have two sides. It makes for a weak position that you might have a hard time defending. If you stick to "absolute" remarks, they are easier to defend and stand by. Like for instance, I told one place I was only comfortable buying the RDX for $30300 or lower because above that price I had other vehicles I would consider instead. I made $30300 my hard number. It took a few days and several dealers, but eventually I got that price.

Of all the negotiating tactics, time is the best one on your side -- they want to sell a vehicle more than you want to buy it (if it's the other way around then you are asking for trouble, so never be desperate for a new car!). Politely tell them you need to get lunch, meet someone, have an appt, etc... and say you will need to pick up negotiations some other time. This *always* works for me.

Good luck!

2Sxy4YoMama

I felt like I left on good terms and I really never actually said the would "swallow the $89." but I really wanted to say it.

2Sxy4YoMama

I just e-mailed the a couple of dealership again and got the a respone I wanted. It requested $30,500 non-tech with tint in CGP with ebony and the one they had a a pip strip, which I really do not care about. Finally, the dealership I walked out of called me and are trying to beat. NOW THIS IS GREAT. I might try to be greedy and go for $30,300 with tint.

Tripp11

Why? Aren't you being just as shady as the dealer with this tactic? You told the dealer that they would earn your business with $30,500 with tint, didn't you? Yet you want to squeeze another $200 out of them.

If you gave them a figure that you would agree to, then you should stick to your word.

Hoopics

I agree with that only to a point -- if you tell Dealer A you'll accept X, and they say no, Dealer A faces the risk that you'll no longer accept X after you leave.

Particularly if Dealer B agrees to do it for X without jerking you around, asking Dealer A to do better to get your business back isn't shady -- it is the risk they took when they first said no to your offer.

On the other hand, if you tell Dealer A you'll come in and buy the car for X and they say OK, but you then you get there and demand a better deal, that's shady, as they've accepted your offer and now you want to change the terms on them without their having done anything to deserve it.

2Sxy4YoMama

In all honesty, a lot of the dealer are pretty shady themselves. I am trying to get the best deal available. As long as I do not sign anything, I am going to work it and keep on looking for the best deal. Finally, the dealership that I walked out of does not have my car in stock. They are trying to find the car, but is having trouble finding the exact car. Thus, everything they are finding has other accessories and I might be willing to take those accessories if they give me at cost and that is why I might try to squeeze another $200 out of them.

Tripp11

My mistake as I thought you had asked the dealership to go $30,500 and include tint, and once they agreed to do this you were opting to lower it to $30,300 plus tint.

flar

Don't pay (MSRP, cost or anything) for accessories that are already installed on the vehicle, particularly if you wouldn't have ordered them. It was their gamble to get more profit out of the customer they end up selling the car to, but you shouldn't pay for their gamble. If it is causing delays in finding the car you want then express your dissatisfaction that their greed led them to encumber the vehicles with profit fluff that is now delaying a potential deal.

If there is an accessory that you want on the car and you are close to a deal and don't feel like walking again, then it might make sense to offer to pay cost on that accessory to close it, but don't pay for anything you never wanted.

When I made my deal it took the dealership a long time (close to an hour) to let go of the money in the accessories, but they eventually caved. The thing that finally did it was that they asked me if I would take a car with none of the accessories on it if they could find it and I said "Yes" without hesitation - in other words, this was about lack of leverage with the accessories on their part and not about me wanting to get a freebie - the accessories then disappeared off of the balance sheet. When I took delivery, the car had all of the accessories anyway. My guess is that the "find you a car without them" was a bluff as they probably threw those accessories on every car on the lot without thinking and so there were none without them - the question was just to test my mettle. They could have removed the cargo tray in 2 seconds, but they didn't even bother - that's how little it mattered to them.

So, don't pay for any accessories - it's their problem, not yours, that they've encumbered all of their vehicles without first checking to see if you wanted them. But, don't turn it into a "how sweet a deal" game - simply be firm about what you were looking for.

2Sxy4YoMama

I have a deal set, but the dealers are have trouble finding color or the car with no accessory right now. The one I want was sold this morning and there none left in the area. It's their turn to get back to me with the car.

nj kayaker

Hi all. Greetings from NJ

Glad I stumbled on this board. Seems to have a lot of great information.

I just purchased my RDX-tech last evening (CBP/Taupe) and will pick it up this weekend. After doing a couple months of extensive research coupled with an exhilerating test drive, I'm confident I made the right move. However, what really sold me was the price and 3.9% financing.

Expecting to go through some tough negotiations, I had my research and competitve pricing ready to go. Surprisingly we had the whole deal done in less than 15 minutes, and although I feel like I got the deal of a lifetime, I would like a few opinions

RDX-Tech: $33,545
Acura Music Link for I-Pod: $349
Roof rack: $649
Splash Guards: 137
All season floor mats, cargo tray, and leather shift knob: No Charge


Total: $34,680 (plus tax)

Maybe there really is something to negotiating at the end of the month. Can't wait to get this toy on the road

c_hunter

Great price on the RDX! I would skip the Music Link at any price since it is not great and there are better options for less money. Roof rack is available for $300 online; if you are handy you could install it yourself. Splash guards are about $70 online and painfully easy to install. But, given the good deal on the RDX and the freebies, I think overall you are getting a good deal even with the labor charges on the rack and splash guards. Congrats on the deal!

sbpwjm

hi there nj kayaker,

i have been shopping an RDX tech in the NJ as well. i live in Red Bank. do you mind if i ask what dealership you decided on? did you work with a salesman you actually liked?

i have done most of my shopping thru e-mails but was curious about your "in person" experience...

thanks so much!

p.s. i tried to PM you but i think you might be too new to receive PMs

nj kayaker

Hi...

I worked with Clinton Acura (via email) and Acura of Denville (face to face). Purchased from Acura of Denville as it's located on my way into work. I was happy with my salesperson (Tony) and never felt any pressure from the dealership while negotiating.

Good Luck!

nj kayaker

Unforunately my weekend time is limited so I had to bite the bullet on the installation charges, but thanks for the input all the same.

In hindsight, the price and "throw ins" probably came off the trade in price on my RAV4 (2002, 133K miles in fair condition). I had hoped to get between 5 - 5.5K on it, bit only received $4600. They always make up the difference somewhwere

2Sxy4YoMama

I guess nobody wants a sell or they can not find a car with no accessories.

yorab

OK, I have read through most of the postings here and it seems that many people have gotten incredible deals. The problem is everyone is discussing the purchase price and very few are talking about lease payments. I know I will get a lot of flack for that since negotiating a lease is the same concept since you can negotiate your purchase price, then figure out the months, money factor, etc. This is a bit technical for me and I feel that if I compare the real monthly payment I get along with how much money I put out of pocket, as long as it's the best rate possible I don't care where the dealer made money. If the dealer wants to lower the money factor and raise the purchase price or vice versa, it doesn't really matter as long as I get the best deal.

Anyway, I have emailed several dealers in the NY/NJ area and the following is the best price I've gotten on a 36 month, 10k miles/year lease for the RDX with tech package (terms assume a+ credit score):

upfront out of pocket:
$0 down (no cap cost reduction)
$595 acura bank fee
$150 NYS DMV fee
$446.50 first month payment

$446.50/month for the next 35 months

This does NOT include NYC Sales tax which is 8.375% and has to be paid on the depreciation only not on the full vehicle price like some other states. So basically I can just add the tax to the monthly payment and my 36 payments will be $484/month with having paid a total of $1,230 out of pocket.

What do you guys think, is this a bad/decent/excellet deal? Any other leasers out there? what kind of price did you guys get? anyone else leasing in ny/nj with similar or different experience?

Thanks!

smjc_99

I think is a very good deal



The best deal I got in Nj was

3k out of pocket , 455 a month Includes taxes etc , 10 K/year

looks likes with 1.3k out of pocket like u it will increase the monthly pmt to $510 a month

You seem to have got a better quote. Can I know which dealer and the sales guy so that I can call them

Thanks

yorab

smjc, email me through my profile and I will give you the details.

smjc_99

Yorab,
could not PM you , my email is smjc_99@yahoo.com

Thanks

yorab

done. I don't know why I can't receive PM, I can't seem to send them either.