When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So I have been working on making a downpipe. I'm having a issue locating a 3.5 inch 3 bolt triangle flange with the correct bolt hole spacing to match the turbo outlet. Anyone have any luck or should I cut the factory one off the converter and weld it to the custom downpipe. I'll post pics later "evening of 11/13/22" of my current progress. Look forward to jump starting the 1st gen threads back up!
Here's some pics of the downpipe. 3.5 turbo outlet port match down to a 3 inch at the flex section. I haven't got the flange foe the turbo outlet welded yet.
nice! I look forward to seeing how this turns out. I've been looking for an alternat solution to an RV6 for a while.
I've actually installed it already 3 days ago. I only have the exhaust built back to the glass pack so far, which is about where the 1st stock muffler is. 'll post some pics.
I've actually installed it already 3 days ago. I only have the exhaust built back to the glass pack so far, which is about where the 1st stock muffler is. 'll post some pics.
On a performance note: When I first installed my RV6 catted downpipe I had really strong low torque. When I cut off the necked down flange and went to full 3" I lost a lot of it. I then put a 3" to 2" adapter cone inside the pipe and regained the low torque. You should probably experiment with pipe size to balance the power.
nstalled pics, 3.5 port turbo port match to 3 inch and then after flex section 2.5 inch all the way back similar to a atlp cat back. 1 is the resonator, 2 is going from back to front. Its placed where the 1st stock muffler was. 1under turbo, 2 is 2nd o2 sensor, 3 is the pipe going towards the back Just a quick pic from the top before everything is fully back. It runs great no CEL but i did disable the 2nd o2 sensor Heat wrapped titanium 2k degree wrap. Stock flange welded to custom pipe. Flex sextion from the down pipe going to the mid, v band is placed where the 2nd converter was Just hanging to get it started its flanged just not bolted Getting new grommets lol.
.
On a performance note: When I first installed my RV6 catted downpipe I had really strong low torque. When I cut off the necked down flange and went to full 3" I lost a lot of it. I then put a 3" to 2" adapter cone inside the pipe and regained the low torque. You should probably experiment with pipe size to balance the power.
I definitely will, I can undo the v band right under the turbo and add a inner baffle to give it a touch preasure. I haven't driven it yet. Still ffabing the rest from the resonator back. See pics to see what i mean about resonator
So the cat back got welded. Just need some spare time to pop it on. I need to measure, cut and weld the tips from the muffler. 99% of it is stainless steel. The muffler is not and 1 piece of piping that is 6 inches long. V bands for clamps and I'm going with c-clamps with welded hangers so there is no hangers welded to the pipe itself.
Looks nice Ess! Wish I had the skills to fab my own stuff. I'm about to re&re with the 2.5" MF 1st & 2nd cat as I can't find any source on a new or used RV6 DP and they stopped making them AFAIK, then the ATLP SS cat back kit from there.
What kind of a p.i.t.a. am I looking at to get the 1st stock cat.con.? How did you find the 3 bolts after the first OEM removal from all the heat cycling? I'll obviously be blasting them with PB first.... just looking for a little insight into the awkward angles and what else I may have to remove to get to what actually needs to be taken out. Thanks!
Hey fahsta,, the first converter can be a pain to get out. Make sure to have a step stool and a if possible to make it easier ratcheting wrenches. Need the front end up "ramps or jack stands" safely. Remove the heat shields/guards around the top of the turbo before you put it up. After it's up and cool, the bottom bolt is easier to get if you go under and lay on your back and reach up. It's not fun but that's what I did. The middle bolt is self explanatory. Top hidden bolt, the main reason you want ratcheting wrenches. Use the wrenches the whole way to make it work. The bottom of the 1st converter is I think 2 spring bolts. Pop those off "i snapped'em with the impact " and salvage the flanges if you can/need.
Now<------ The hard part is coming. Unplug the o2 sensors, if you want remove from converter "I just unplugged electric clips & was a pain" . I removed from the top, I cut the converter 2 inches from the flange with a saw zall. The safer faster move I found out would be to use a oscillating carbide blade and oscillating saw. Cheap from harbor freight. Save the flange if your custom making a downpipe "that's why I cut mine". Took me 3 hrs , I could have done in less with the oscillating saw. You have to wiggle and twist the converter the rest of the way out. Take your time, try not to ding to much up. Get a new gasket if you can. Hope this helps 👍
MUCHAS APPRECIADO AMIGO!!! And sincere apologies to any native Spanish speakers for my butchering of your beautiful language!
Gonna start to hack away once the weather improves. Sell off the OEM cats for some cash and hope for the best. LONG LIVE THE RDX!!! And MORE COWBELL!!!!!
11-13-2022, 10:11 AM
The hard part is coming. Unplug the o2 sensors, if you want remove from converter "I just unplugged electric clips & was a pain" . I removed from the top, I cut the converter 2 inches from the flange with a saw zall. The safer faster move I found out would be to use a oscillating carbide blade and oscillating saw. Cheap from harbor freight. Save the flange if your custom making a downpipe "that's why I cut mine". Took me 3 hrs , I could have done in less with the oscillating saw. You have to wiggle and twist the converter the rest of the way out. Take your time, try not to ding to much up. Get a new gasket if you can. Hope this helps 👍
