Hi, been on this forum for a long time, mostly about turbo issues, but have a new one I can't seem to find anything in these forums about.
I replaced my RDX with a new car, but wanted to hold on to the RDX for a while, still worked fine, but didn't drive it much, maybe once every 3 months for about a year. Which means it sat for long periods without being started. In the olden days with vehicles, you would have to worry about condensation in the engine causing the rings to rust up and potentially seize your engine, so always keep it turning from time to time. I really didn't think with relatively modern technology, that would be an issue for me.
Both starter and battery had been replaced in the recent past, so when I tried to start it and it gave me bad battery symptoms, I thought, ok, maybe the battery is bad, it did sit for a while, so I replaced it again on the batteries warranty. Tried it, same symptoms. Thought, ok, the starter was used when I replaced it, so maybe needs a new starter. Actually bought a new on this time, and same symptoms. The alternator had been replaced as well, but it isn't the alternator. With the new battery and new starter, it appears audibly like it is turning over, laboured and slowly, but the engine isn't actually turning, this is visibly confirmed by the belt not moving.
Is it possible the engine is seized? I would be incredibly shocked if it was after really only sitting for about 3 months over the summer. I want to try and free it up, if you agree, and rotate the crank manually, and if needed, pull the spark plugs and add in some penetrating oil to the cylinders, but thought I'd check with the experts here first? Anything else under these conditions that would cause these symptoms?

 

It is possible that the engine is seized but that wouldn't be my first guess. It's easy enough to check though- get a big breaker bar and use it with the appropriate socket on the crank pulley bolt. You should be able to rotate it (may need some force, should turn smooth).

Check the harnesses, especially the heavy starter power leads and any/all associated grounds. Ensure that the voltage delivered to the starter as you're trying to start it is what you would expect (ideally over 10V, more is better)

 

Thanks for the reply. I have tried to rotate the engine manually at the crank. Thought to be sure I should pull the plugs, but do you think it can be done easily without that? If so, I'll try again.

As for the electrical connections, the only other thing I hadn't mentioned in the symptoms was if I hold the key to try and start it, it sounds like it is rotating, albeit labored, then seems to want to fire, with a regular pulsing, just doesn't run, and clearly the motor isn't turning. I don't even know what is turning if the starter is actually rotating. I don't want to hold it too long, I am sure if I did that something will give, and with a new battery and starter, I would prefer it not be either of those. But I will eliminate the possibility of a ground or other connection by double checking.

 

Called my favourite Honda/Acura aftermarket service folks and they suggested it's possible the a/c compressor is seized. Suggested to remove the belt and try turning individual components of the belt drive system to see what may be frozen, including the crank. Will be doing that today.

 

Definitely a seized a/c compressor pulley. Will follow up if I am able to get it freed up and start the damn engine!

And totally makes sense why it appears like the engine was turning over when trying to start it, as it was in fact turning, just the crank slipping on the belt, but not visible from the top, as I was looking at the p/s pulley to move.

 

I have pulled the a/c compressor, a/c hasn't worked in a while. My options are to get the special tools necessary to remove the pulley and replace it to get the car running again, or remove it all together and bypass it in the belt routing. I did a forum search for this and found some bypass DIY's for other Acura models, but not for the 1st gen RDX. Anyone have experience in this? If so, what would the replacement belt size be? Or any other suggestions?

I feel like if I have to actually remove it from the car, discharge the system and try to free up the bearing, I might as well just leave it out and reroute the belt.

 

I think the general repair method in that instance would be to simply buy a new compressor and install it/have it installed. Here it would be about $200-$300 for the part. Install isn't particularly complicated mechanically but handling the refrigerant can be vexing and require the services of a professional.






There are bypass pulley kits available as well it seems- never seen that before tbh. Seems like a cheap and simple option if you can get by without AC.






Images are from the Rock Auto catalog.

Thanks for following up; I never would have guessed that cause.

 

Meh, A/C is not overly tough, you just need a set of manifolds connected to the H/C side, a vacuum pump to evacuate the refrigerant, a tank to store said refrigerant, and then the replacement parts. I'd get a new drier as well as you should replace it every time you bring air into the A/C system.

 

Thanks. I opted for removing the compressor and adding in an aftermarket idler pulley, A/C didn't work anyway, and likely the coil needed replacing, but to do that meant buying the replacement parts. And could either replace just the pulley bearing just to make the pulley function and reinstall the compressor that doesn't work, or replace the entire pulley and coil which was more expensive than the idler pulley alone, and I don't miss the a/c anyway. Thing is starting to get old, I don't want to spend more money on it. Thanks for the advice and research effort, I do appreciate it.

 

Just as an update to this, I ordered and received the Amazon a/c compressor bypass part, and installed it. That was all fairly simple to do, and found plenty of helpful hints and procedures from other threads in this forum. I will provide a couple notes of caution to anyone who has to do this in future.

When I replaced the starter initially, thinking that might be the problem, and I knew this as it wasn't the first time I had done it, but forgot, I snapped the electrical connector off the end of the water temperature sensor located precariously close to the spot you need to get the ratchet in to remove and tighten the rear starter bolt.

A/C compressor removed, lines removed. I had tested initially to see if there was any pressure remaining in the system by very briefly depressing the valve on the upper line, nothing released so the system had already depressurized, unfortunately to the atmosphere, frig knows how long ago, I don't remember when the a/c stopped working anyway.

Also, it seems the replacement idler pulley is just slightly larger than the original a/c pulley, enough to make it really tight getting the belt back on. If you feel like you want to give up and email Amazon and give them shit, just make sure you have a good long wrench and/or extension on the belt tensioner, and remove the p/s reservoir (set aside without disconnecting) to make for as much room as possible to twist that sucker as far as you can.....the belt will go on. Verify first that the entire routing of the belt is seated on all other pulleys to ensure you have the maximum amount of slack available to slip it back on the the alternator. Getting to and seeing the belt on the crank is tough unless you have it jacked up and the wheel and the splash guard removed, which I had anyway as I removed it during the initial diagnosis stage. A couple times I had to go under and reposition it, it sometimes would slip up and one or two cogs on the belt would catch on the outer rim of the pulley, which was enough to make it impossible to slip on the alternator.
Bottom line, the car is back up and running just as good as it was before, problem solved.
Hope this helps someone else in the future.

 

How does it feel driving it with the A/C compressor and clutch pack removed?

 

No real difference to be honest, other than that kind of aftermarket part is going to have to prove itself to me, looks fairly flimsy. Although the body of the mounting bracket is cast aluminum, and fit perfectly, the pulley just feels like cheap plastic, and the bearing doesn't seem as robust as OEM at all. With the kinds of forces on it, I would have expected it to be a little more robust, but who knows, may last forever, or could fail and leave me stuck on the side of the road. But it works for now. Still have the old compressor, may think about exploring taking the pulley off, just need the special tool to remove the clutch, and then might consider replacing the bearing on the pulley and put it back in...dunno. At the vey least that remains a back up option if the new part has no real life to it.

 

You should have less resistance on the serpentine belt and that should make you feel more power but that's all. Cast aluminum is soft and not as hard as forged obviously not going to waste money on that process for a delete kit. Sounds like the pulley is cheap enough to fix if something goes wrong but it's more of a pain in the ass than anything else.

 

Might be forged vs cast, I am not sure. I went back to the original description on Amazon to see, but doesn't seem to be listed in the specs, . This link should help if anyone wants to review it.

 

Thanks for the link...just did my serpentine belt and tension-er last night...not too bad if you have a lift to use...