Danil ACE

Okay, so I searched for the tutorial and found it, but I'm not sure what constitutes a slow blink and a fast blink. So I filmed a quick video of it blinking and it would be nice if someone could help me out here.
Also, for some reason, my "BRAKE" light on the dash is lit, but my e-brake is down. What gives?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4xOau_dmMMU

"How to read DTC

For example a DTC of 4-2, will have 4 slow blinks then 2 fast blinks.

There is a 0.5-second pause between the slow and fast blinks and 3.6-second pause between each DTC. The ABS system can hold multiple DTCs. So supposed you had 3 DTC of 2-1, 1-2, 1-1; Your ABS light will react as the following:

Ignition ON (II)
- Bulb check (2 seconds)
- 3.6 sec pause
DTC 2-1
- 2 slow blinks
- 0.5 sec pause
- 1 fast blink
- 3.6 sec pause
DTC 1-2
- 1 slow blinks
- 0.5 sec pause
- 2 fast blink
- 3.6 sec pause
DTC 1-1
- 1 slow blinks
- 0.5 sec pause
- 1 fast blink
- 3.6 sec pause


DTC Code Lookup

No DTC and ABS Indicator OFF: ABS indicator does not come on.
No DTC and ABS Indicator ON: ABS indicator does not go on (no DTC).

DTC ON for rest
1-1 Wheel sensor Front Right (open/short to body ground/short to power)
1-2 Wheel sensor Front Right (electrical noise/intermittent interruption)
1-3 Wheel sensor Front Left (open/short to body ground/short to power)
1-4 Wheel sensor Front Left (electrical noise/intermittent interruption)
1-5 Wheel sensor Rear Right (open/short to body ground/short to power)
1-6 Wheel sensor Rear Right (electrical noise/intermittent interruption)
1-7 Wheel sensor Rear Left (open/short to body ground/short to power)
1-8 Wheel sensor Rear Left (electrical noise/intermittent interruption)
2-1 Pulser Front Right
2-2 Pulser Front Right
2-3 Pulser Rear Left
2-4 Pulser Rear Left
3-1 Solenoid Front Right-IN (short to body ground/short to wire)
3-2 Solenoid Front Right-OUT (short to body ground/short to wire)
3-3 Solenoid Front Left-IN (short to body ground/short to wire)
3-4 Solenoid Front Left-OUT (short to body ground/short to wire)
3-5 Solenoid Rear Right-IN (short to body ground/short to wire)
3-6 Solenoid Rear Right-OUT (short to body ground/short to wire)
3-7 Solenoid Rear Left-IN (short to body ground/short to wire)
3-8 Solenoid Rear Left-OUT (short to body ground/short to wire)
4-1 Wheel Lock Front Right
4-2 Wheel Lock Right
4-3 Wheel Lock Left
4-4 Wheel Lock Left
5-1 Motor lock
5-2 Motor stuck OFF
5-3 Motor stuck ON
5-4 Fail-safe relay
6-1 Ignition voltage
6-2 Ignition voltage
7-1 Different diameter tire
8-1 Central Processing Unit (CPU) diagnosis, and ROM/RAM diagnosis"

Nakamichi

Looks like DTC 21 -- Pulser Front Right to me.

Troubleshooting:
Erase DTC.
Test drive at 20+mph or more.
If it DTC does not come back on, don't worry about it.
If it does, check for damage on the pulsar gear. If it is damage replace the drive shaft.
If it is not, check your ABS control unit connectors. If necessary substitute ABS unit for a known good one.

As for the brake light, check your brake fluid. When mine was low, my brake light stayed on. Make sure your fluid is at proper level. If it is, you can test the Brake fluid switch by disconnecting the two cables on top of the reservoir cap and check for continuity. If there is continuity and your fluid is MAX, then your switch is bad. Replace it.
Or the parking brake switch is always finding ground.

Danil ACE

So okay, today I added brake fluid during lunch (turned out to be like 1 cm below minimum) and both lights have gone away! The BRAKE light I can understand why (brake fluid was low), but what about the ABS light? I didn't do anything to it and now it's gone?

TexasHonda

An intermittent wheel sensor may be the problem, or perhaps the sensor is merely dirty. I've cleaned the sensor by removing sensor, cleaning sensor w/ rag, stuff rag into sensor port jammed against the cogged wheel and rotate the wheel to clean the cogs. A degraded signal can result from dirt/grease on both sensor and cogged wheel. An easy fix.

good luck

ourumov2

I'm having a problem as well with my ABS light. It has been coming on randomly in the past couple of days, so I did the diagnostic code trick and got this as a result:

1-5: Wheel Sensor Rear Right (open/short to body ground/short to power)
8-1: Central Processing Unit (CPU) diagnosis, and ROM/RAM diagnosis

I took off the right rear sensor this morning and degreased it, now it is all clean, and I also cleaned the disc with ridges that the sensor senses. I put everything back and now the ABS light is on all the time. What may be the problem? It is still giving me the same DTC Code.

What does the DTC 1-5 and 8-1 exactly mean?

Thanks so much in advance!!

..also the brake fluid is topped off

TexasHonda

What model/engine car are we discussing? There are different ABS units in different models.

My 94 Accord manual (same ABS unit as 97 2.2CL) says 8-1 can also be "Wheel Sensor signal disappears at speeds above 6 mph (10 kph) or less". However same manual does not list a 1-5 at all. Wheel sensor codes are 4-1,2,4 or 8.

Note, there is a code 1 and code 5, however they would be separated by 5 second pause whereas 1-5 would only have a 1-second pause between digits.

I would suggest the wheel sensor is the problem and 8-1 may be a result of the problem.

good luck

duke167

The ABS light on my Acura CL 2.2 97 showed up a couple days ago. I checked the fuild and everyone are at the proper level. Then I try to get the diagnostic code, I only see 4 slow blinking on the ABS light, and it repeated for 3 times and went off.
What does that mean?

My ABS light is on when the speed is above 5mph. Pls help, thanks.

Dk

ourumov2

Thank you for the response TexasHonda. I apologize, I was so caught up in the problem I forgot to mention my car..it is a 98 Acura CL 3.0..and the DTC codes I was going by are posted by Danil ACE in this thread.

I was driving around yesterday for a while and to my surprise the ABS light went off, so hopefully the problem has been solved by my cleaning of the sensor.

What worried me was the 8-1 code since it provides this description: "8-1 Central Processing Unit (CPU) diagnosis, and ROM/RAM diagnosis"..I thought that something was wrong with the ECU.

TexasHonda

After shorting the service check connector and turning keyswitch to ON, there should be a 2 second blink initially, followed by the ABS code/s.

The ABS code/s are all short rapid blinks w/ 1-second pause between 1st & 2nd digit (bbbb-P-bb=42). Repeat or successive additional codes are separated by 5-second pauses. Note some codes are single digit so (b-PPPPP-b-PPPPP-b = 1)

You may have this single short blink separated by 5-seconds. Code 1 is ABS Pump overrun, a very common fault w/ multiple causes.

Check your ABS codes again and repost w/ correct code/s.

good luck

duke167

I just double check the code today. The pattern is
bbbb-p-bbbb-ppppp-bbbb-p-bbbb-ppppp-bbbb-p-bbbb

Does it mean 4-4 ? rear wheel sensor problem?

dk

saiko_cl_duck

A wheel sensor sounds right. That'll throw an ABS code easily, especially if it's an intermittent problem.

ghost_masterCL

my abs light will randomly come on for about 30 seconds while I'm cruising. Wheel sensor issue?

and how do I diagnose if it only happens when I'm driving and it goes away by the time I get to my destination?

It's only happened 3 times within the last month though. just turns on for 10-30 seconds then it's gone.

TexasHonda

4-4 is right-rear wheel sensor. Check resistance and clean as described above. If resistance is in spec, cleaning should fix.

good luck

duke167

the question maybe stupid....but...can I clean the sensor without remove the whole wheel?
I don't have a garage, that's why I ask.

TexasHonda

Car must be jacked and tire/wheel removed to access the sensor. It's easy once wheel is out of the way. Remove one retaining bolt and it's free. There may be some supports for the wire that need to be released.

good luck