Hey guys, it has been about 4 years since I swapped my F23 for an H22a. I have a 99 CL with a 96 JDM H22a. Up until a couple of months ago- the Car has ran fine for 4 years. Strong and fun with only the regular maintenance.

Now it will not run.
Here is the deal:
My wife was driving it down the road and she heard a pop and the motor cut off and would not start back up. The speedometer, tach and all gauges were going haywire/bouncing all over when we tried to turn it over and it never would start again. I also had a fields unit wired into the conversion harness at the ECU that was just blinking/pulsing through out the speakers. I have another car and have been using it while I have checked locally for advice- but given the intricacy of the OBDI-OBDII conversion and the fact that this is not the motor that comes with the car- I am not getting much response. Just a bunch of shoulder shrugs. The original mechanic who did all of the work is not available anymore. So I come to the place that made my swap possible years ago for the experts advise.

*I thought it had to do with the fields unit, so I removed it from the equation and wired the conversion harness back as it initially was without it. Still no go.

*I pulled the end bolt off fuel rail- and fuel comes out-not sure if it is enough. What is the best way to see if I am getting enough fuel/pressure?

*I pulled out one spark plug and put it back in the boot of the spark plug cable and put metal to the plug-no spark. This is where I need some serious suggestion.
---How can I test the distributor? Would it going bad cause the car to quit and the electrical to freak out in the dash? Could it be the ECU? Possibly Not telling the distributor to fire?
Relays? I am really lacking knowledge on the distributor side.
This distributor is remanufactured (bought 4 years ago).
Cap and rotor are fairly new. (less than 4 months before it died).
Those were replaced because the mechanic forgot to put the screw in the rotor button and it moved. Over time it was wore out and car ran like sh*#. Lot of dust from cap points and button was present- but changed the cap and rotor and it ran fine for bout 4 months.

I am trying to prevent myself from tracing wires. I don't know enough about electrical to go there and no one else wants to even start that project.

Can you guys help me with isolating the issue? I know I am all over the place- but I wanted to lay it all out there. Any help is greatly appreciated.

I read through the forums and could not find an issue quite like this one...

Thanks again in advance for any advise offered...

 

Well... By the number of responses-I guess it was a bit overkill with my previous post.

I am going to begin tracing backward from sparkplug.
Does anyone have the wiring diagram for the Dizzy for 92-96 Prelude (TD-60U).

I am going to see if I am getting power to the distributor.

 

hmm it could be a long list of things really, any check engine light? Check fuses under dash and the ones in the engine bay. It possible the distributor may have just died..

 

Thanks for the response man. I pulled the distributor off last night and ordered a new one. I did this because narrowing/isolating the issue- I show 12 volts going into the Dizzy and absolutely nothing coming out. Worth a shot. My CEL is always on as I am lacking EGR and there is something wrong with the TPS.
Thanks

 

u shouldn't have an egr with the skunk2 manifold, nowhere to mount it on that manifold. fix ur tps, it can really affect the way the car is acting. replace the dizzy, and get back to us on what happens.

 

Man... This sucks. Got a new distributor in today. SAME RESPONSE! NADA!
This is driving me nuts!
Fact remains. No spark- but I am showing power coming into the distributor...

Can someone tell me why I would have power at the dizzy- but no spark, even with a new distributor?
I am at a complete loss and this is perty dang depressing...
Any suggestions?

 

bad wires? although that would be weird for them to all cut out at once.. but a surging dizzy could do that. thats the only thing that makes sense in my head if youve got power at the dizzy and no spark at all

 

Could that be? All 4 wires? What would cause the dizzy to surge? I don't want to ruin the new one? What signals should I be reading at the dizzy. All I show was 12 volts and the other wires also showed voltage. In fact- all of them did. ??
So- It is not the ECU. It is not the Dizzy. Voltage at dizzy.. No spark.. WTF?

What else can I check?

 

If the timing jumped- would that cause lack of spark? I am reading about the manual autotensioner fix that I should have done... If it did jump time? Is the motor screwed?
Jeez- I hope that's not it...

 

well if your first and original dizzy was going, something could have shorted, amping up power and frying a wire, all four at once is rare, but it could happen. Happened in my old audi. Alternator started to go, power surged to the dizzy and the dizzy overloaded, fried half a bank of wires, three were completly fried

timing jumping would eff up more then just your spark.. did you not tension the belt when you replaced it?

The only other thing i can think of is a relay somewhere, although i dont really know the h22 harness/system at all. dainfammus should have more info on that, maybe even hulk if you can get a hold of him

 

what if the spark order is off..

 

he says hes not getting any spark at all

 

man H22 has a lot of problems? or is it just me being a noob?

Im just going nos and if it blows then ill decide f22 or h22. By then hopefully a can afford the new BMW Coupe 3 series.

 

Check the timing belt alignment to see if it jumped timing. Won't cost you nothing but a few minutes of your time.