I searched for a while and posted in an older thread with no response, so here goes:

When coming out of first, the Brake Indicator comes on, I shift to second, it goes off until I reach about 2.5K then comes back on, once I shift into third it stays on and recently its been doing it in every gear except 5th...it used to stop when I switched to 3rd...my brakes feel fine, maybe a bit spongy at some points when letting off the clutch, it seems like the brake fluid is transferring from the brake pedal to the clutch or vice versa. the e-brake is down and my fluid is right where it should be...what's the deal???? Thanks!!!

 

Do you mean the yellow ABS light or the red brake light?

 

The Red Brake light....My brake pads aren't worn either.

 

happened for a cpl mins to me the other day... (auto tranny) ... it went away after I shut her down and started her back up tho.

 

I have a manual tranny, This has been going on for a few weeks now, it started off as a sporadic thing, every once in a while it would do it through first and second, but now, it's just pretty constant through every gear except 5.

 

mine does that too when its cold outside. it didnt start happening until i put my pspec short shifter in, so i assumed i messed something up down by the e-brake handle. Havent had time to check it out.

 

when it's cold outside????? WTF man we are in PHX... It has been 110+ here for the last frickn week and I am MELTING!

 

it hasnt happened for couple months + . and cold is like 60-70

o btw, congrats on the new car

white is nice in this weather, not as hot

 

had this same problem in my integra, the line that runs to the switch that triggers that light to stay on is routed right underneath your shifter, take off your armrest/cup holder and you should see a switch at the base of the e-brake..check to see if its broken/dirty/or just loose..btw your ebrake is cable actuated so this light is not related to your fluid brakes. GL

 

So as of yesterday, my Brake light was on constantly...I leave a parking lot and go to hit the brakes and Voila....no pressure whatsoever and they go to the floor, barely stopping...So I check the fluid and it's drained, I checked it a few days ago and it was fine.

So I refill with DOT3 and pump the brakes and I still have NO pressure but the fluid level is fine and I didn't ntoice any fluid leak beneath the car.

What could this be?? I'm thinking either Air in the lines or my master cylinder????

Oh BTW, when I refilled my brake fluid...The light is NOW OFF and doeasn't come back on when shifting...so at least that problem is gone, maybe it just needed cleaner and newer fluid....But now i have a bigger problem on my hands...can anyone lend a hand??? Thanks

 

Hell, it could be a number of problems.

You could have a master cylinder gone, have a hole in a line, or a leaking caliper seal.
You may not have notice fluid gone, but it's gotta go somewhere, and if it's not in the car.........

 

Both time this happened to me, one of the caliper lines had burst

 

This is what I'm thinking...looks like i'm taking it to the mechanic again today..it's always something

I just foudn it weird that after I filled the fluid up...the light went off...and before it was on and the fluid level was fine. So it didn;t have to do with the e-brake which is what i originally thought.

 

Found the leak...the left rear caliper and hoses are doused in brake fluid and looks like it's most likely a seal of some sort...woudl I just need to replace the seal or would I be better off replacing the entire caliper??? Is it fairly easy for a DIY?? Ive done brake jobs before and am wondering if it would be of the same degree of difficulty. Thanks!!

 

the seal is a PITA, just go for the whole caliper, especially on the rear caliper. I had the same exact issue with the left rear, I just bought a whole new caliper and changed it in about 5 minutes.

 

I had the exact same issue as you just recently. I also figured that adding fluid would be a permanent fix

Anyways, my leak turned out to be on the rear right caliper, which I had the dealership replace, and now all is good with no leaks whatsoever.

 

I was going to suggest brake master cylinder as I have had similar problems in the past...but yes definitely replace the whole caliper, does more for preventative maintenance overall anyways.

 

This is what i'll do, I searched but couldn't find a DIY, can anyone give a brief overview of what I'll need and hwo to go about doing it myself?? I've done brake pads before but never changed an entire caliper. Thanks again guys, once again, this has saved me some $$$$.

 

So I brought my car into Firestone yesterday to have it checked out...it ends up that my Left rear caliper blew, so here's the deal:

He said that he'd need to replace the caliper, rotors (Because the fluid drenched the rotors and he said their's no way to cut them) and pads...he said the rear pads and rotors are covered for life, and to replace everything it would be $700 (almost $350 in labor, $125 for each rotor)...seems a bit steep to me, doesnt it? My question is, why would he need to replace BOTH rotors if only the left rear went??? to keep them even? Would this be better off doing it myself? Any info would be greatly appreciated.

 

So I brought my car into Firestone yesterday to have it checked out...it ends up that my Left rear caliper blew, so here's the deal:

He said that he'd need to replace the caliper, rotors (Because the fluid drenched the rotors and he said their's no way to cut them) and pads...he said the rear pads and rotors are covered for life, and to replace everything it would be $700 (almost $350 in labor, $125 for each rotor)...seems a bit steep to me, doesnt it? My question is, why would he need to replace BOTH rotors if only the left rear went??? to keep them even? Would this be better off doing it myself? Any info would be greatly appreciated.

 

$700 isn't that steep for all the parts and labor involved. Also, they have to replace both pads and rotors so that the braking is even, or your car will shake

 

word^^ i went to midas and did mine for 480. but i ordered brembo drilled and slotted recently. my suggestion is to do it your self. cheaper!!

 

replace back or front rotors in pairs, never single items by themselves.

The rears are a bit more of a PITA then the front. The calipers themselves are not that hard, but if you've never screwed around with more than brake pads, I wouldn't suggest it, as the rear caliper has the e-brake attachment. That's a steep price, but I wouldn't leave pads, rotors, and new calipers around to someone without experience. Find a buddy who's done it before, preferably on a Teg or Accord, as the have similiar setups to the CL.

 

Yea I think I'm going to do this myself this weekend along with the front left axle.

I've done Pads before, and the rotors seem fairly simple, but do you guys have any tips on replacing the caliper??? I've never replaced a caliper before adn certainly don't want to fuck that up. Thanks.

This is what I found on autozone, it looks a lot more involved than i expected, I thought I saw someone say ni here they changed theirs in about 5 minutes:

http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us...rInfoPages.htm

 

As long as you don't have a 97 the rotors are easy

 

what about the rear left caliper??? I just don't want to mess up the ebrake cable.

 

Why did you create another thread asking the same question?

Threads merged.