Another B97 CL 3.0 Transmission problem

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Old Oct 6, 2013 | 10:10 AM
  #1  
Chi-TownWarroir's Avatar
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Another B97 CL 3.0 Transmission problem

Hello Everyone,

First I know I spelled my name wrong. I didn't notice it till after I hit accept. Total n00bsauce move. Anyways.....

I've been looking all over to see if anyone else has this problem. Cliff notes at the bottom.

The drove fine for a long time. However just the other day, the engine cut pulling away from my house. The check engine light was on and D4 was flashing. The car starts up just fine, and the second I get off the gas, the engine cut again. I got it back to my driveway, get the codes and I pulled the battery cables and let the ECU reset overnight. The next morning I connect everything back, check engine light is gone, and the car starts just fine.

Now here's where I can recreate the problem. I can drive in D1-3 just fine, and the engine won't cut. If I drive in D4 and let off the gas at any speed the engine cuts.

The codes I got were

P0700
P1768
P1773

Seems to me that the Torque Converter is not unlocking or the car can't downshift.

Is this the solenoids? if so is it only the Lock Solenoid or the Shift Solenoid or both? Or is it the TC? or everything. As I said the transmission shifts just fine.

Clifts

1. Engine dies when I get off the gas.
2. This only happens in D4.
3. Pulled codes (P0700, P1768, P1773)
4. Reset ECU and everything appears to be normal.
5. Trans shifts fine.
6. Drives and shifts fine in D1-3
7. Can't spell Warrior

Thanks everyone.
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Old Oct 6, 2013 | 08:54 PM
  #2  
fabrizzio71's Avatar
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Sounds like a problem with your solenoids. If your torque convertor was bad you wouldn't be able to drive properly in D1-3. I've replaced my shift solenoids A and B plus the Linear pressure solenoid and the Torque convertor solenoid and it fixed my transmission issues. I never had the engine die like that though but it sounds like a lock up issue as you mentioned. Does the car downshift in D3 when you step on it?
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Old Oct 7, 2013 | 06:33 AM
  #3  
Chi-TownWarroir's Avatar
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No it doesn't actually. It wont shift out of 4th once it's in it.
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Old Oct 7, 2013 | 08:57 AM
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Also, do you (or anyone) by chance have the part numbers for the solenoids? I'm about to buy them, and I want to make sure I get the right ones.

Thanks.
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Old Oct 7, 2013 | 07:25 PM
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I have the part numbers for the ones that were installed on my car. However, I should note that if your problem is a lock up issue, there is a separate lock up set of solenoids that you would need. I did not need to have these installed.

Torque Convertor/Shift Solenoid - 28200-P0Z-003
Linear Pressure Solenoid - 28250-P6H-024
Shift Solenoid A - 28400-P7Z-004
Shift Solenoid B - 28500-P7Z-004

And here's that Lock up Solenoid set - 28020-P7X-305

Like I said before though, I don't know that I would necessarily buy all of them at once because they are pretty expensive parts. I'd try to be more sure about what's causing your issue, maybe find an acura specialist. Hope that's somewhat helpful.
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Old Oct 7, 2013 | 08:24 PM
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Once again thanks
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Old Oct 8, 2013 | 08:34 AM
  #7  
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When I look up the part number for the lockup solenoids, it shows that the part is only for the 98-99 is this the same part for the 97 named differently?
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Old Oct 8, 2013 | 11:48 AM
  #8  
fabrizzio71's Avatar
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I actually don't know. Maybe it would specify in a service manual. My 3.0 is a 99, I just assumed it would be the same for all CLs. If it isn't, then I may have very well given you wrong info. Would definitely double check before purchasing.
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Old Nov 7, 2013 | 02:29 PM
  #9  
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Just a small update....

I ended up getting the transmission rebuilt. It drives very smooth and quiet now. Almost feels new. I'll report back again after some more miles are put on it.
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Old Nov 20, 2013 | 11:01 AM
  #10  
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rebuild??? what was the issue with your tranny if you don't mind me asking???? and what kind of price did you get for the rebuild??? i'm having very different trans issues, but i love information!

i am trying to find some help with my 1998 3.0 CL. i lost reverse. just grinds and wont ingauge. i talked to a local shop here... very reputable shop here. and they told me i need a new shift fork, reverse gear and hub. total cost with labor is 1800... i'd like to do the work myself... but i'm not positive on exactly what parts i need to order... can anyone send me a diagram detailed in internal parts??? something that has the actual part names or numbers... thank you all.

And Chi-town "worroir"... i love that you said noobsauce! i've been utilizing "awesome sauce" and "lame sauce" for a couple years now! haha!
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Old Feb 1, 2018 | 02:21 PM
  #11  
Redbiff's Avatar
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From: Cleveland, OH
Aftermarket solenoid and back to OEM

I bought a 3.0 CL with 150k on it. When I drove it, it shifted smooth so I bought it. After a short time of ownership I changed the trans fluid as I didn't know when it was last changed and thought it would be good to keep it running smooth.

It was running fine but a month or so later it started to shift a bit harder on occasion. I kept driving it normally and then one day it started shifting very strangely to the point where it didn't feel totally safe to drive. I took the solenoids off to check the filters but they were all clean so I guessed it was a solenoid issue. I bought a remanufactured part from ebay for $50 and installed it. When I first started the car after the install it had a very rough start and then I turned it off and the second time it started normally but with a check engine light on. I took it for a quick test drive and noticed that it shifted even worse than before with the new part. So I put the OEM solenoid back in and now it all runs fine. Will probably change the trans fluid again and see how many more miles I can get out of it.
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Old Mar 7, 2018 | 07:19 PM
  #12  
Redbiff's Avatar
Redbiff
 
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From: Cleveland, OH
Update

Originally Posted by Redbiff
I bought a 3.0 CL with 150k on it. When I drove it, it shifted smooth so I bought it. After a short time of ownership I changed the trans fluid as I didn't know when it was last changed and thought it would be good to keep it running smooth.

It was running fine but a month or so later it started to shift a bit harder on occasion. I kept driving it normally and then one day it started shifting very strangely to the point where it didn't feel totally safe to drive. I took the solenoids off to check the filters but they were all clean so I guessed it was a solenoid issue. I bought a remanufactured part from ebay for $50 and installed it. When I first started the car after the install it had a very rough start and then I turned it off and the second time it started normally but with a check engine light on. I took it for a quick test drive and noticed that it shifted even worse than before with the new part. So I put the OEM solenoid back in and now it all runs fine. Will probably change the trans fluid again and see how many more miles I can get out of it.
165k on the car since I changed the solenoid and changed the fluid again. It's been running mostly smooth, sometimes notice some harder shifting but for the most part is fine. Think I'll change the trans fluid again at the next oil change and try some lucas fluid to see if that makes a difference.
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