Another B97 CL 3.0 Transmission problem
#1
Another B97 CL 3.0 Transmission problem
Hello Everyone,
First I know I spelled my name wrong. I didn't notice it till after I hit accept. Total n00bsauce move. Anyways.....
I've been looking all over to see if anyone else has this problem. Cliff notes at the bottom.
The drove fine for a long time. However just the other day, the engine cut pulling away from my house. The check engine light was on and D4 was flashing. The car starts up just fine, and the second I get off the gas, the engine cut again. I got it back to my driveway, get the codes and I pulled the battery cables and let the ECU reset overnight. The next morning I connect everything back, check engine light is gone, and the car starts just fine.
Now here's where I can recreate the problem. I can drive in D1-3 just fine, and the engine won't cut. If I drive in D4 and let off the gas at any speed the engine cuts.
The codes I got were
P0700
P1768
P1773
Seems to me that the Torque Converter is not unlocking or the car can't downshift.
Is this the solenoids? if so is it only the Lock Solenoid or the Shift Solenoid or both? Or is it the TC? or everything. As I said the transmission shifts just fine.
Clifts
1. Engine dies when I get off the gas.
2. This only happens in D4.
3. Pulled codes (P0700, P1768, P1773)
4. Reset ECU and everything appears to be normal.
5. Trans shifts fine.
6. Drives and shifts fine in D1-3
7. Can't spell Warrior
Thanks everyone.
First I know I spelled my name wrong. I didn't notice it till after I hit accept. Total n00bsauce move. Anyways.....
I've been looking all over to see if anyone else has this problem. Cliff notes at the bottom.
The drove fine for a long time. However just the other day, the engine cut pulling away from my house. The check engine light was on and D4 was flashing. The car starts up just fine, and the second I get off the gas, the engine cut again. I got it back to my driveway, get the codes and I pulled the battery cables and let the ECU reset overnight. The next morning I connect everything back, check engine light is gone, and the car starts just fine.
Now here's where I can recreate the problem. I can drive in D1-3 just fine, and the engine won't cut. If I drive in D4 and let off the gas at any speed the engine cuts.
The codes I got were
P0700
P1768
P1773
Seems to me that the Torque Converter is not unlocking or the car can't downshift.
Is this the solenoids? if so is it only the Lock Solenoid or the Shift Solenoid or both? Or is it the TC? or everything. As I said the transmission shifts just fine.
Clifts
1. Engine dies when I get off the gas.
2. This only happens in D4.
3. Pulled codes (P0700, P1768, P1773)
4. Reset ECU and everything appears to be normal.
5. Trans shifts fine.
6. Drives and shifts fine in D1-3
7. Can't spell Warrior
Thanks everyone.
#2
Sounds like a problem with your solenoids. If your torque convertor was bad you wouldn't be able to drive properly in D1-3. I've replaced my shift solenoids A and B plus the Linear pressure solenoid and the Torque convertor solenoid and it fixed my transmission issues. I never had the engine die like that though but it sounds like a lock up issue as you mentioned. Does the car downshift in D3 when you step on it?
The following users liked this post:
Chi-TownWarroir (10-07-2013)
#5
I have the part numbers for the ones that were installed on my car. However, I should note that if your problem is a lock up issue, there is a separate lock up set of solenoids that you would need. I did not need to have these installed.
Torque Convertor/Shift Solenoid - 28200-P0Z-003
Linear Pressure Solenoid - 28250-P6H-024
Shift Solenoid A - 28400-P7Z-004
Shift Solenoid B - 28500-P7Z-004
And here's that Lock up Solenoid set - 28020-P7X-305
Like I said before though, I don't know that I would necessarily buy all of them at once because they are pretty expensive parts. I'd try to be more sure about what's causing your issue, maybe find an acura specialist. Hope that's somewhat helpful.
Torque Convertor/Shift Solenoid - 28200-P0Z-003
Linear Pressure Solenoid - 28250-P6H-024
Shift Solenoid A - 28400-P7Z-004
Shift Solenoid B - 28500-P7Z-004
And here's that Lock up Solenoid set - 28020-P7X-305
Like I said before though, I don't know that I would necessarily buy all of them at once because they are pretty expensive parts. I'd try to be more sure about what's causing your issue, maybe find an acura specialist. Hope that's somewhat helpful.
The following users liked this post:
Chi-TownWarroir (10-07-2013)
Trending Topics
#8
I actually don't know. Maybe it would specify in a service manual. My 3.0 is a 99, I just assumed it would be the same for all CLs. If it isn't, then I may have very well given you wrong info. Would definitely double check before purchasing.
#9
Just a small update....
I ended up getting the transmission rebuilt. It drives very smooth and quiet now. Almost feels new. I'll report back again after some more miles are put on it.
I ended up getting the transmission rebuilt. It drives very smooth and quiet now. Almost feels new. I'll report back again after some more miles are put on it.
#10
rebuild??? what was the issue with your tranny if you don't mind me asking???? and what kind of price did you get for the rebuild??? i'm having very different trans issues, but i love information!
i am trying to find some help with my 1998 3.0 CL. i lost reverse. just grinds and wont ingauge. i talked to a local shop here... very reputable shop here. and they told me i need a new shift fork, reverse gear and hub. total cost with labor is 1800... i'd like to do the work myself... but i'm not positive on exactly what parts i need to order... can anyone send me a diagram detailed in internal parts??? something that has the actual part names or numbers... thank you all.
And Chi-town "worroir"... i love that you said noobsauce! i've been utilizing "awesome sauce" and "lame sauce" for a couple years now! haha!
i am trying to find some help with my 1998 3.0 CL. i lost reverse. just grinds and wont ingauge. i talked to a local shop here... very reputable shop here. and they told me i need a new shift fork, reverse gear and hub. total cost with labor is 1800... i'd like to do the work myself... but i'm not positive on exactly what parts i need to order... can anyone send me a diagram detailed in internal parts??? something that has the actual part names or numbers... thank you all.
And Chi-town "worroir"... i love that you said noobsauce! i've been utilizing "awesome sauce" and "lame sauce" for a couple years now! haha!
#11
Redbiff
Aftermarket solenoid and back to OEM
I bought a 3.0 CL with 150k on it. When I drove it, it shifted smooth so I bought it. After a short time of ownership I changed the trans fluid as I didn't know when it was last changed and thought it would be good to keep it running smooth.
It was running fine but a month or so later it started to shift a bit harder on occasion. I kept driving it normally and then one day it started shifting very strangely to the point where it didn't feel totally safe to drive. I took the solenoids off to check the filters but they were all clean so I guessed it was a solenoid issue. I bought a remanufactured part from ebay for $50 and installed it. When I first started the car after the install it had a very rough start and then I turned it off and the second time it started normally but with a check engine light on. I took it for a quick test drive and noticed that it shifted even worse than before with the new part. So I put the OEM solenoid back in and now it all runs fine. Will probably change the trans fluid again and see how many more miles I can get out of it.
It was running fine but a month or so later it started to shift a bit harder on occasion. I kept driving it normally and then one day it started shifting very strangely to the point where it didn't feel totally safe to drive. I took the solenoids off to check the filters but they were all clean so I guessed it was a solenoid issue. I bought a remanufactured part from ebay for $50 and installed it. When I first started the car after the install it had a very rough start and then I turned it off and the second time it started normally but with a check engine light on. I took it for a quick test drive and noticed that it shifted even worse than before with the new part. So I put the OEM solenoid back in and now it all runs fine. Will probably change the trans fluid again and see how many more miles I can get out of it.
#12
Redbiff
Update
I bought a 3.0 CL with 150k on it. When I drove it, it shifted smooth so I bought it. After a short time of ownership I changed the trans fluid as I didn't know when it was last changed and thought it would be good to keep it running smooth.
It was running fine but a month or so later it started to shift a bit harder on occasion. I kept driving it normally and then one day it started shifting very strangely to the point where it didn't feel totally safe to drive. I took the solenoids off to check the filters but they were all clean so I guessed it was a solenoid issue. I bought a remanufactured part from ebay for $50 and installed it. When I first started the car after the install it had a very rough start and then I turned it off and the second time it started normally but with a check engine light on. I took it for a quick test drive and noticed that it shifted even worse than before with the new part. So I put the OEM solenoid back in and now it all runs fine. Will probably change the trans fluid again and see how many more miles I can get out of it.
It was running fine but a month or so later it started to shift a bit harder on occasion. I kept driving it normally and then one day it started shifting very strangely to the point where it didn't feel totally safe to drive. I took the solenoids off to check the filters but they were all clean so I guessed it was a solenoid issue. I bought a remanufactured part from ebay for $50 and installed it. When I first started the car after the install it had a very rough start and then I turned it off and the second time it started normally but with a check engine light on. I took it for a quick test drive and noticed that it shifted even worse than before with the new part. So I put the OEM solenoid back in and now it all runs fine. Will probably change the trans fluid again and see how many more miles I can get out of it.
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