2.2 Intake Install
#123
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dam... i wish it was that easy but iono there is that step6 where i need to take out those golden screws hella big with a wrench but i don't even got space i know it isn't a big problem, but i am also kind of confused with all the little tiny parts w/ wacky instuctions.... very confused. lol
#124
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![Huh](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/huh.gif)
#125
Low and Slow
The tools are more for taking the stock intake out. All I needed to install the actual CAI was a pair of pliers for the hose clamps.
#126
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YEYA got my intake installed today... SOUNDS HELLA GOOD FEELS HELLA GOOD PULLS HELLA STRONG absoulutely love it... but stupid dumb ass weapon R can't make intakes for Sh*t because the didnt give the barb fitting and also, those fools can't make the acutally intake pipe because they f*ed up on the sizing i guess, now my filter sort of grinds on my battery... any ideas? i tried loosin the battery up and moving it towards the drivers side more, ends up still grinding so yea... and i just found out today that my i think coolant thing (w/ the two fans) are leaking and i heard that replacing that would cost 250 and labor would probably be 150-200.... F my life.... lol
#127
yo i might sound like a noob because i am lol, what v2 intake should i get? since AEM doesn't make these for the 2.2 CL, should i get the one for the EX Accord? since its the same engine, someone please help me with this, btw great guide
#129
#133
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Yes 94-97 accord works for engine and suspension, dont' get a v2, huge waste of money
#134
#135
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and go short ram. sounds better, and you dont run the risk of hydrolocking the engine.
#136
because with our low compression, low performance engines.. your just paying for the name. youll get the same gains with an Ebay Short ram and a K&N filter for a fraction of the cost as you would with the V2.
and go short ram. sounds better, and you dont run the risk of hydrolocking the engine.
and go short ram. sounds better, and you dont run the risk of hydrolocking the engine.
#137
Racer
reinstalled my stock shit today to go pass smog ('94 accord AEM carb sticker doesn't work on our cars in Cali with new smog laws people)
i have an extra vac hose running from the triangle thing (against the battery and under the stock air box) down the length of the air box, towards the headlights ... where's that plug in? Anyone with a stock setup willing to take a look for me?
i have an extra vac hose running from the triangle thing (against the battery and under the stock air box) down the length of the air box, towards the headlights ... where's that plug in? Anyone with a stock setup willing to take a look for me?
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#139
#143
Cruisin'
i read over this many times and tried multiple ways hooking it up..
Ran great for like 10 miles then acted up.. Engine light is on and it wont rev past 5K RPM..
Ran great for like 10 miles then acted up.. Engine light is on and it wont rev past 5K RPM..
#144
Cruisin'
engine light will not reset either now.. took out the battery fuse a few times and it worked BUT now it just stays on.. unhooked my battery last night, hooked it back up this morning and the CEL stayed on before i even started the car..
#146
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Has anyone jumped out the coolant lines that run threw the TB when installing a CAI on their f22? I didn't realize it runs threw the fitv and wondering if it's the cause of my idle issue now.
I thought at first it had to do with valve assembly control solenoid. I tried just capping the vac lines. Then removing it completely and removing the vac line to the fire wall. Then plugging and running the one vac line back into the intake, but the only fault with that is my intake doesn't have a second inlet tube and I just used a port off my TB spacer. My next step was to drill and tap my intake pipe and add a barbed fitting to run the vac line to. But with some quick research I found that a malfunctioning fit valve would cause the same idle issues I'm having.
So my main question is if I remove the coolant lines from my fitv will my idle climb to about 2k and then drop to 750? I have removed the coolant lines from almost every vehicle I have owned with no issues. But then again I have never had an issue installing a CAI nor have I ever ran into this stupid solenoid.
I thought at first it had to do with valve assembly control solenoid. I tried just capping the vac lines. Then removing it completely and removing the vac line to the fire wall. Then plugging and running the one vac line back into the intake, but the only fault with that is my intake doesn't have a second inlet tube and I just used a port off my TB spacer. My next step was to drill and tap my intake pipe and add a barbed fitting to run the vac line to. But with some quick research I found that a malfunctioning fit valve would cause the same idle issues I'm having.
So my main question is if I remove the coolant lines from my fitv will my idle climb to about 2k and then drop to 750? I have removed the coolant lines from almost every vehicle I have owned with no issues. But then again I have never had an issue installing a CAI nor have I ever ran into this stupid solenoid.
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