Ok, its a 1998 CL 3.0

Last night on my way to work my check engine came on..
so i was kind of worried so i pulled in my parking lot and disconntected the battery
and left until i came back.. And reconnected. The check engine sign was gone.
so i drove home ( 45 min ) no check engine sign until i pulled on my block, At this point i was kind of mad and worried.. when i pressed my gas.. the car didn't pass
3000-3500 RPM even though i was almost flooring it.. and the car didn't move eighter
The RPM was going back and forward in between 3000 -3500.

When i woke up.. i was sure that something is wrong with my tranny? so i deiced to see what was really up? i took the car out with the check engine sign and the car drove fine
I took it to a remote area and floored it over 30 time and even did over 120MPH and everything seem just fine.. Until I came home and it happen again? I do have an intake AEM v2.. what could be the problem?

someone help please
thanks.

 

well first off if you have a cel, dont go WOT a bunch of times...

second, PULL THE CODE and it will tell you what the problem is, thats why its there.

 

hobo, i have no clue what the "CODE" is.. please be more specified.. im not to good with cars =/
edit: whats a cel?


< Noob

 

cel = check engine light, Wide Open Throttle generally isn't a good idea when you throw a "Code" a.k.a. the check engine light comes on.

This can be for any number of reasons but in general putting undue stress on the car when the check engine light is on is a bad idea.

As for the "Code" itself, when the check engine light comes on you can hook up a device to your cars computer and it will tell you what computer believes the problem is.

You can find these at local auto parts stores, I believe Pep Boys and places like that have them available for you to use.

Hope this helps...Good luck! hope its nothing serious!

 

Will i have to buy this item or i can rent it or something?
also, i'll try to remove the intake and see whats up?

anyother advice will help thanks.

 

At most places they'll hook it up to your car and check it for free. You can buy the device yourself but unless you throw a code every other day or do serious work on your car it really isn't worth the money.

I'm not sure if the intake could have anything to do with it unless you sucked up a piece of something into the engine... and if you did that theres potential for serious problems, but if you drove the thing hard and it didn't explode i dont suspect thats the problem

 

take it to autozone, they'll check it for free... just ask them to connect the odb-II to find out the code.

 

yo i had the same problem with my engine...i have a 99 3.0 cl and it turned out that the vtec was bad. well mine was just a bad wiring which cause the vtec not to read. i had problems at 300 - 3500 rpm's also. the wiring was touching the cat underneath the car and it shorted it out from time to time. check that as well..

 

http://home.insightbb.com/~niedejb/

check in resources and it tells u how to pull the code and what the code is.

 

my CEL light would mysteriously come on at times and the acceleration was funny. I also have an AEM V2 and I found out it was my inlet air temperature sensor not working right. I had to cut and relocate it for my intake so I went back and soldered the wires to the sensor and everywhere else I cut and made sure everything was clean and fit tight.

no more CEL!

 

does anyone have the codes for a 97 3.0 for the ABS light?

 

npchottboi, you could be right as becouse when i make a wide turn the light comes on
i think the wire is touching the cat underneath the car

I'll check that 1st thing in the morning..
thanks everyone.. if that does not work.. I'll take it to auto zone.. if you have any other advice please post.

 

I took the car to a shop las night and they ran the computer, and it spit out some kind of sensor problem.. I think im going to remove the intake for good.


also does anyone know where the V?tec is? i can't find it..
i need to locate the wiring ?

 

my friend had that problem with his 2.3 accord .. 450$$ at teh honda dealership.. i dont remember what the problem was.. but we could tell a performance difference after it was repaired.. a huge one.... its not the intakes fault.. vtec is found in the hearts of all the proud acura/honda owners across the world...

 

but the the computer tells me its the TDC 2 Sensor No Signal and the
IAT Circuit High Input ?

 

those two sensors malfunctioning can lead to a HUGE loss of power.

TDC2 is your top dead center sensor, if it reads incorrectly your timing may be automatically retarded causing lesser power

the high input on the IAT sensor can cause the sensor to read that the air coming in your intake is hotter than it actually is, which of course is not good for air/fuel mix, giving you yet again less power and poorer gas mileage---this was what my IAT sensor was doing

 

any idea where these sensors are located?

 

heres a Pic of the bay... ( dont know who car is that ) where are the sensors located?

 

the tdc sensor is located i the timing belt housing. (where the belts are) giving that u didnt know what a cel was i would just take it to a shop and have them change it. it does involve removing the timing cover. one sensor could be causing another sensor to read bad. so i would change the iat sensor first since thats the only ony you will be able to do on your own.

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/wilp99...5d.jpg&.src=ph

unplug it, use the right size wrench...unscrew it. put new sensor in, screw it down.

then reset the code. (disconnect battery or go to autozone and have them delete it off the ecu with the scan tool) if u need any more help hit me up.

 

its kind of hard to see but its marked w/ a red circle.

 

Thanks alot.. I did change it but didn't help..

so I'm thinking of changing the other one in the timing belt area.. but I'm wondering if I should just do the timing belt and water pump?

I guess there is a reason why its on.. what would you advice me on this?