pennykmpr

wow, that was easy. I was worried that installing this vtec controller would be a pain in my butt. Well, i have no previous wiring experience and i also didnt have a 10mm socket, but somehow i got this thing done in like 1:45 min. Not bad for a rookie. Anyway the only thing that i have changed is the vtec engagement point, i set it at 3900, there is little to no lag before it hits and when it does you can actually feel it not just hear it. Anyway, getting ready to put on the front and rear strut brace. Im getting there guys, thanks for the help.

pennykmpr

Does anyone have the v-afc on their first get, if you do could you help me with some ideas (notice just ideas, not doing anything rash with my fuel mix) on what kind of settings i need. All of your help would be appreciated.

haiduc

i merged your two threads.


the bast thing to do is to leave all of the settings at 0 and get it tuned. the only thing i would mess with is the vtec hi-lo and lo-hi settings.

pennykmpr

thanks 1gencl, anyone else on the settings???

97Acura3.0CL

i have some of the settings, but as far as the fule goes, luckyax2 is supposed to get his car dynoed this month and then he will share the settings on here, but if you are talking about the setting for the car i can help you with that, i have mine in the car, btw where did you mount yours in the car? i would not mess around like 1gencl said with the fuel curve not unless you have a a/f ratio guage and a dyno to set it on, you can seriously hurt and damage your motor. does the engagement of the vtec throw you back into your seat a little? mine does, on the 2.3 and 2.2 they dont see that but on your 3.0 i have the same thing, let me know how it feels. i have messed with my fuel mixture but i did not leave it due to that i was going from a butt dyno but that is not good, you can mess with a little if you want but if you do only raise and lower it a tad if you do too much you can flood your engine and seriously damage you car for life. pm me and i can help ya some more man

pennykmpr

I temporarily mounted it on the dash just to the right of the guage cluster. Im going to try to come up with a better way of mounting it. I was thinking about cutting out one of the two air vents that are in the center console and mounting it right there, it looks like it would fit perfectly, ill just have to make sure and block of the heater path. Anyway, the unmatch fuel correction setting, should i add a little fuel (3-4%) because of my raised v-tec point or am i good, i just want to know how much i can lean out the top end without causing too much heat and in turn detonation so that i go no where near that. I really would like to get it dynoed but it seems like a waste of money seeing as how i only have a CAI right now. O well, suggestions on mounting and settings would be great, please email them to Pennekmpr@earthlink.net Thanks guys.

pennykmpr

wahoo, 100 posts !!!!!

97Acura3.0CL

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<----------------1300 posts

lets not start this again

haiduc

my dick's bigger. :P





(just wanted to quote someone so i can see my new sig.)

back to your regularly scheduled thread.

97Acura3.0CL

too funny man but im italian and i know i have the bigger shlong of the 2 j/p

CO30CL

I found this posted on another forum:

The J30A1 already runs extremely rich in open-loop at heavy throttle. The whole point of ECU tuning is to LEAN the engine out so that it makes more power, not make it run richer. At WOT the J30A1 has an A/F of close to 10.0:1 or even lower which is ridiculously rich. If you get some ECU tuning done to lean it out in open-loop operation to 12.0:1 or 13.0:1 you'll get a TON more power while also having an adequate safety margin for the engine. If you lean it out too much you'll fry the pistons.

Running rich = lower EGT, and less power, but very safe.
Running 12-13:1 = higher EGT, more power, but less safety margin
Running 14:1 = even higher EGT, best power, ZERO safety margin