Unoffical 400 whp thread...
03-30-2009, 08:55 PM
#81
Drifting
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if im going to run anything more then 5 psi on a engine, im going to build it fully, sleeves and all. stock rods on an f23 say it all. yeah the k is an iron block, but look at the 7me-gte. its an iron block 6 that when boosted has had issues with cracking over time. you never know whats faded over time and where issues have developed, unless you want to get everything die tested.
03-30-2009, 09:16 PM
#82
Drifting
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if im going to run anything more then 5 psi on a engine, im going to build it fully, sleeves and all. stock rods on an f23 say it all. yeah the k is an iron block, but look at the 7me-gte. its an iron block 6 that when boosted has had issues with cracking over time. you never know whats faded over time and where issues have developed, unless you want to get everything die tested.
03-30-2009, 09:21 PM
#83
if im going to run anything more then 5 psi on a engine, im going to build it fully, sleeves and all. stock rods on an f23 say it all. yeah the k is an iron block, but look at the 7me-gte. its an iron block 6 that when boosted has had issues with cracking over time. you never know whats faded over time and where issues have developed, unless you want to get everything die tested.
03-30-2009, 09:21 PM
#84
Three Wheelin'
if im going to run anything more then 5 psi on a engine, im going to build it fully, sleeves and all. stock rods on an f23 say it all. yeah the k is an iron block, but look at the 7me-gte. its an iron block 6 that when boosted has had issues with cracking over time. you never know whats faded over time and where issues have developed, unless you want to get everything die tested.
If Scout8847 decides to run forged pistons, it's a good idea to have forged sleeves. Cast iron sleeves expand faster than the forged pistons. This causes increased piston slap which can scar the cylinder walls. It's a good idea to allow the motor to warm up to normal operating temperature before driving. On a daily driven car, this could be a pain in the ass.
I don't know if this would lead to engine failure, but the scaring would cause a loss in compression. Really all I'm saying is that I would run forged internals on a turbo car. Especially if it has a 99mm stroke.
03-30-2009, 09:31 PM
#85
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It's an aluminum block, but has cast iron sleeves.
If Scout8847 decides to run forged pistons, it's a good idea to have forged sleeves. Cast iron sleeves expand faster than the forged pistons. This causes increased piston slap which can scar the cylinder walls. It's a good idea to allow the motor to warm up to normal operating temperature before driving. On a daily driven car, this could be a pain in the ass.
I don't know if this would lead to engine failure, but the scaring would cause a loss in compression. Really all I'm saying is that I would run forged internals on a turbo car. Especially if it has a 99mm stroke.
If Scout8847 decides to run forged pistons, it's a good idea to have forged sleeves. Cast iron sleeves expand faster than the forged pistons. This causes increased piston slap which can scar the cylinder walls. It's a good idea to allow the motor to warm up to normal operating temperature before driving. On a daily driven car, this could be a pain in the ass.
I don't know if this would lead to engine failure, but the scaring would cause a loss in compression. Really all I'm saying is that I would run forged internals on a turbo car. Especially if it has a 99mm stroke.
i wouldnt go as far as to say any motor stock.. but still, im a reliability freak and wouldnt want to risk anything.
03-31-2009, 06:14 AM
#86
One custom CL
you have to sleeve the block. you dump so much money only to shortchange the weakest part of the engine. iron or aluminum high performance requires beyond oem spec.
03-31-2009, 08:39 AM
#87
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any block taking substantial boost should be sleeved
03-31-2009, 04:35 PM
#88
THE GRIM
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Ok after talking it over with the wife and putting my other car on hold, I have decided to jump into this k20 swap and get serious. I have ordered this stroker kit http://www.briancrower.com/view.php?pn=BC0049
and this turbo
http://www.briancrower.com/view.php?pn=BC0049
I am going for 400 at the wheel as a starting point.
I should have the car completely done and painted by mid July. Will the mods please make this a sticky, so that I can post my progress pics and let everyone know what is needed to do this swap. Thanks.
and this turbo
http://www.briancrower.com/view.php?pn=BC0049
I am going for 400 at the wheel as a starting point.
I should have the car completely done and painted by mid July. Will the mods please make this a sticky, so that I can post my progress pics and let everyone know what is needed to do this swap. Thanks.
and guys my fastest time in the car was 13.04@113 forgot to put windows up and close sunroof my fastest trap was 13.5@118 on bfg drags all these were soft take off for fear of breaking at the line. and spinning all the way down track. but this year working on a new setup and running slicks 24.5x8x15 m/t at the track so i will let everybody know when the car is done.
Last edited by HULK22; 03-31-2009 at 04:37 PM.
03-31-2009, 06:59 PM
#90
One custom CL
I was thinking why spend your money a stroker kit beating that poor bottom end up to 2.39l is it when you can just get a K24 bottom end and sleeve that? K24 setup would be more reliable than that chinese kit...
04-18-2009, 04:37 PM
#93
Senior Moderator
probably cuz he already has the K20, and would have to pay extra to find a k24 block and then sleeve that. It might be worth it to just sell the K20 block and buy a K24 block though.
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