Guys I need you help. I am in the market for a new aftermarket throttle body. I havenlt used my 70mm skunk2 for too long and I already wana destroy it. It sticks, its doesn't, rpm is is too high because knob turning the tps is already above .8 volt with tb fully closed. It's a terrible design and since I want to use the car soon id like to make it somewhat normal. What aftermarket tbs would you rely on?

 

i have one also, they stick or don't close all the way. alos you have to modify the tps, pop out the metal eyelets and open the holes up to get enough space to properly clock the tps

 

also try some lube(grease or something heavy enough to stick,nothing runny) on the butterfly spring, that seemed to help mine

 

AP1 S2000 throttle bodies work good. Make sure it's not drive by wire.

 

I had seen some good reviews on the omni power TB's, don't have any personal experience with them though

 

iv got a nice little useless tb spacer that i installed, it makes a cool whistle sounds when im on half throttle.

 

^do you feel any gains or throttle response?

 

 

AP1 TB like dicorp said. and BDL.

 

Haha, I missread 'useless' with 'endless'...thought it was the brand or something.

 

bdl costs a fortune

and i did do that trick eating away to adjust the TPS. now the car acts funny. seems like every time i take my foot of the gas it almost stalls on me then comes back to life at 1500 which is way better than 3000. when this happens my injectors go flat and car keeps firing i guess because my o2 reader displays .... as in high. any ideas. im planning on starting with the TB and TPS. My MAP also kinda broke to that has to get replaced.

 

did you hook it up to a voltmeter and check it for spec at closed and full open? or did you just wing it?

 

absolutely. I set it to .47 volt fully closed and it hit 5.8 fully opened. i dont like that because its real high. i can adjust the TPS all i want but if the TB doesnt opens twice the same or closes twice the same then im wasting my time

 

Yeah my skunk 2 isn't that great either. Not as bad as yours, but not that great either. Shaun has a Blox 72mm on his H22, he says its great n he's never had any issues with it.

 

BDL! BDL! BDL!

now only if you did that in the 1st place you would be fine. search on H-T for a S2K AP1 (2000-2003) throttle body.

 

How much is a BDL? i might sell mine and get one of those.

 

so 00-03 s2k tb will fit?

 

This has nothing to do with the thread, please keep it on topic

 

yes

 

You can also have your stock throttle body bored to 66mm if the aftermarket ones aren't that good. Usually costs around $100 (that's what I paid for mine).

 

btw, are you running an aftermarket Intake Manifold?

 

yea, he has a Euro-R manifold.

 

not really aftermarket. like ghost said EURO-R intake mani. i wanted to know if the ap1 can be bored to 70mm. im not going anyless. i would love to go bdl which i probably will but i want new tps and map sensors. i cant get them without purchasing a new tb from honda. im going to email maxbore.com and ask if they can bore the ap1.

 

EURO-R > Skunk 2

 

EURO-R very expensive but teh sex

so can i bore a s2k tb 70mm or not. i searched and i got mixed answers

 

I had mine done at maxbore.com

They don't show the S2K on their site. I'm sure if you called, they could help you out. It only took 3 days like they claim. I recommend them.

 

not necessarily. Euro-r give your mid range a good boost and smoothes out the range when you get into VTEC.

Skunk 2 is all top end, especially good if you have cams and rev higher than stock.

 

Believe me. I searched long and hard for the IM. After 2 months of seeing one dyno result after the other the euro-r outperformed the skunk2 and pp stock IM. Maybe the Skunk2 gives a mild gain all around but the EURO-R gives you have with a cherry in the end. believe me. Lol I wish I could tune my car and give you guys some numbers

 

We'll eventually see Euro-R vs Skunk2 since i have a skunk2 manifold.

 

yea dicorp it has its benefits. i just hate skunk2 products.

 

you think i pulled that statement out of my ass? I've read multiple threads on PP and hatertech, and what i've said in my post was a general summary.

your preference, is a different matter entirely. I'd love to see your car tuned, along with a complete spec sheet. you're very shady with us here

please do provide us with a dyno sometime.

 

why dont you read on this
http://hondasociety.com/board/showth...ghlight=euro-r

Anywho, i will be shady because i do have many things to do to but it never seems to be complete.I have had the car since 03 and have had 3 engines. I do have a substantial amout of real mods to make some pretty good numbers. i havent provided you guys with any numbers because im not planning on dishing out $400 for a tune which I might use for a couple of months only. fyi I did put a deposit for a tune which i lost due to events which set me back. But remember when i say that you will both be here when you do see the only stroker turbo H22 CL. Of coarse, i will show you the numbers then.

 

skunk2 IM = cheap.

the end.

 

you get a uneven gain thruout the powerband and peaks at high rpm. we are talking about a H22. not known as a high revv engine. and no 8k isnt high
the euro-r gives you a constant gaint thruout with some real nice tq gains

 

yah, it's no B18C.

but people do have 9k rpm H22s. with a built head ofcourse.

 

so the ap1 tb cannot be bored more than 65mm with a 70mm tapered opening. bdl for me i guess. please dont disappoint

 

No, not really. Man if i had the money to get some headers and my exhaust finished, i'd dyno my shit so people will stop talkin all this BS.

Its like any other product. Some like it, some dont. It depends on the person and the application.

 

see the S2K TB would be perfect for me, but you need more size arber.

 

Chris you only had to destroy half you bay to make that monster fit no?

 

had to notch my brake booster and take my sway bar out n put it back on. Thats about it. Epoxying a piece of rubber to the booster would've worked too.