what's better cross drilled or slotted. what's the diff? i don't have the opt for cross drilled and slotted so i want to pick one or the other.

 

Cross is for street, slot is for track. Cross will vent gas and allow water and mud not to gunk up the rotor. But it is missing metal so it won't be a very good heat sink and might crack on massive braking like on the track. Slotted has more metal more resistant to cracking and damage. Pads won't last as long and maybe more noise. The slots will shave and remove gasses to reduce brake fade. I reccomend cross drilled because most people don't really need sloted for street and it looks better in my opinion.

 

good info to know. i'm thinking about getting new rotors too. so are you saying that cross drilled wears out the pads faster than slotted?

 

I recommned crossed drilled and sloted rotors. Purely because they look a lot better. Unless you're doing laps on a track or some serious street racing you'll never break the cross drilled rotors.

 

I wouldn't get either. After some extensive reading it seems that neither helps our cars on the street at all. Better to get a nice set of solid blanks like the Brembo OEM rotors. Even Jens expressed his doubts on the use of cross drilled or slotted. Really they are just for looks...

 

I have some rotors for sale, if anyone need some, their cross drilled and slotted

 

Slotted rotors act like a razor blade against your brake pads.

Pro : pads always maintain a new surface, faster braking no uneven wear through your pad.

Con : pads wear down about 30 percent faster than stock.

Cross-drilled rotors to my knowledge have no adverse effect to brake pad life, but do not have quite the stopping power of a slotted rotor.

Either, however, have been tested and proven to give you better stopping power than the oem surfaced rotors.

 

to the above.

Also, I forgot to mention - the whole thing about allowing gases to escape is no longer a valid claim. Current brake pad materials don't emit gases under heat like pads from the 70s/80s. There's nothing to escape.

 

Cross drilled rotors can crack under extreme heat. This kind of heat isn't likely to occur under normal street conditions, but if you autocross, it could happen. They also make dimpled rotors that are supposed to be stronger than cross-drilled - instead of drilling all the way thru the disk, they only go part way thru. Power Slot makes them - read about them at http://www.powerslot.com/prostop.html

When it's time for brakes, this is what I plan to do.

 

how much would a new set of rotors cost me? Im guessing i need to get new bigger rotors than the OEM because i now have 18" wheels...

 

u dont need bigger rotors, but I have OEM size. what yr is ur car?

 

97' 3.0....i was just thinkin cuz i got bigger wheels that i would need bigger rotors...cuz sence i got bigger wheels i lose stopping power and go through break pads quicker..

 

Do your 18s weigh more? That would be the main reason for the symtoms you describe. Bigger rotors would require new calipers, etc. You're talking at least $1K-$1.5K.

 

That only for the front. Rear they nobody really does. High risk of making the car unstable when braking. So companies like aem only have the big brake kit for the front.

 

^^Right

 

the only time u really need to upgrade the brakes to a bigger size if for like SUVs puttin on 22s on up

 

you guys really wanna know what the biggest factor in prolonging brakes...the break in period, that first heat cycling will determine whether or not you will be ricing around for a while on them or just ricing for a short time before you are shaking again