DJBOMBERMAN

I have searched and searched and read DIY after DIY before making this post. I want to replace the brakes and rotors on my 97 3.0 CL. I found one post that seemed to be promising, but alas, no pics in the place where pictures should be. I have a hydralic jack and jack stands. Had my car up on them and wheels off. Then I could not get the bolts on the brake calipers to budge. I have never replaced them before, is there something I need to make this job easier?

I am replacing them on the front and the back. About how long should it take me if I have never done it before? I am figuring that after the first one, I would get much faster and better. Is there some tips you could give me to make this easier? Reading the forums it seems like these things are a breeze, but I'm not seeing it.

I was able to download the manuals from the forums, but I cannot get them to open. I just want a visual reference for this job. ANY help would be great. Thanks.

duluoz

"Sometimes what you need to hear isn't what you want to hear."
i watched them do it to my cl -- i don't want to discourage you from diy's but, that particular job's a monster on this car. took these seasoned shop kids a few hours of furious bloodwork to do it w/o the press.
gl

legendaryCL98

here's how to replace brake pads.. its a tutorial for the Legend.. but hondas are pretty much alike..

http://24.96.59.129:8080/LEGENDtuner...brakepads.html

as for brake rotors.. i too haven't found any DIY.. sorry..

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

Yet when I search, I find it


https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...ighlight=rotor

legendaryCL98

lol.. i think he wants pictures

STL+3.0CL

Its a BITCH!
Blow torch + Hammer + Crowbar + BandAids = Pain in the Ass and 3 hours worth of work.

knothd

That's cause you've been around for awhile ol timer lol and have seen all of it so you know where to look

knothd

I do all of my own work and have done this job to my 3.0 so here's the deal U will need to seperate the upper and lower ball joints and the tie rod end to be able to get the bearing assembly/hub off to take it to the machine shop for the bearings to be pressed out and then back in(I know it suk's) that's to replace the front disc's. The rear are no problem pretty straight forward.You must have the correct tools to do this work,if u don't use the pickle fork correctly to seperate the ball joints u will tear the rubber boot and have to buy a new ball joint to get the rubber boot. Good luck

WineRed2.2CL

No one has replaced there Fronts Rotors before?

WineRed2.2CL

Buy the Haynes repair manual for the 94-97 accord is the same issh

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

Just cuz I've been on here 3.5 years, doesn't matter. I still used the search and it was one of the first options I found

Jstoumba

alright bomber man have no worries this compared to my other vehicles is by far the eisest to replace brakes and rotors on. the only thing you will not like is compressing the rear caliper piston. it turns DOES not Compress remeber that. IF you want a detailed instruction let me know...

skeeeeet

What the hell do you mean it doesnt compress? Of course it does. Take off brake fluid reservoir cap, insert caliper spreader, and turn. Its easy.

WineRed2.2CL

OKay fellas. I have a 2.2 L

Do i need any special tools to take the rotors off?

agranado

3.5 years? That's not what your join date says?!

agranado

there's something about the front rotors on a 97 that sucks royal ass... search rotor threads for more info on that..

UTsmokey14

"

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

Join dates don't mean shit, I lurked on this site for 2 years b4 joining, this was actually my 3rd account setup, the first 2 I setup were on A-CL and they got jacked up cuz the a-cl to az migration was being done and new account creations weren't workin right. I bought my car in May 2003, but was on here December of 2002 looking at Dustbuster, casper, and clpower's CL's. I remember the day you joined,

CL'er 1st & 2nd Gen's

Ouch...

redsly

Ok, I'm not sure how the 1st Gen rotors are, but since my 90 Integra were pretty much the same as my 2nd Gen CL I will assume they are the same...

It sounds like you are saying that you can not get the bolts on the back/inside of the calipers to loosen...

The easiest way to loosen these bolts (in my opinion) is to use a combination wrench (one end opened like a "U" and the other end closed like a circle) and put the box end on the 14mm (I believe) bolt head and then take a 15mm wrench or something that is bigger and put the box end on the second wrench into the open end of the wrench on the bolt to use it for leverage. I hope that didn't confuse you to much, but its general physics since you are making the "lever" longer it gives you more leverage and makes it easier to break the bolt free. If you need to, you could just simply tape the wrench with a hammer while being sure to keep it on the bolt head to prevent it from stripping.

Now, with that being said, there could be a separate issue that you are having and didn't describe...

If you are trying to pull the rotors straight off after removing the calipers, you must remove the two set screws (philip screws on the hub portion of the rotor) if they are still present. If you break one or even two taking them off, don't worry, the lugs will keep the rotor tight when you put the wheels back on. If the rotors don't come loose after the screws are out and calipers are off, just hit the face of the rotor (around the hub and being careful not to hit the lugs or you will phuck up the threads) and pull outward on the side you are hitting. It will come free. If you are like me and had the unfortunate problem of buying the car used and someone already stripped the screw, you can buy some screw extractors from a store like VIP and remove them if the head is not broke off...

I realize this is long and may or may not be helpful, but I hope it does help. Any questions, feel free to ask me. I don't have a “Helms”, but you don't need one, especially for a task this simple.







Late...

redsly

Ok... once again I took to long editing my phucking post...
Anywho, I was trying to add the following...

Oh, I just realized that I hadn't stated one other thing... If you are trying to remove the bolts that have the rubber protectors on them (on the clamp part of the calipers) and they just continue to spin, You can use a 17 millimeter wrench on the inside of bracket well using the 14 Millimeter on the outside and pull them in the opposite directions (meaning hold the inside nut and turn the outside bolt the way you would normally). I am not sure of the sizes, it's been a while since I changed my rotors, sorry but I hope that is helpful as well...

Remember, the bolts are being taken out from the opposite side that you are looking at, so they will be reversed... In other words, you are facing the rotor and the bolt is screwed in TOWARDS you! So if you are not used to working with tools, you will have to go against what you are used to. It's a right hand thread, turn clockwise (if you werefacing it, but you aren't) to loosen it and Counter Clockwise to tighten it.

Late...

redsly

ARGGGGGHHH!!! I hate this time limit to edit crap...
I keep remembering things afterwards...
IF your rotors are the same style as mine, you don't need to tough the ball joints or take out the bearings or the hub...
You simply take out the set screws and pull the rotor off. That was my point about the 1990 Integra being the same style as my 2nd Gen Cl... I don't see why the 1st Gen would be any different if the 90 teg had it...
Sorry for so many post...


As for the last post, I meant to say that clockwise is tightening and counter clockwise is for loosening...
Sorry, to many beers I guess...

DJBOMBERMAN

Yeah, I'm not that big of a NOOB. I did find that thread as well. I can use the search function. I was looking for one WITH pictures, not broken links to pictures that were there. If you find one when you search, PLEASE let me know. Not to sound mean, but next time, read my entire post.

Thanks for all the responses! So the front rotors on a 97 CL 3.0 are different than 98 or 99 3.0 CL? I noticed when looking at the rotor it looks like there is more to it than just taking the Caliper off and removing a couple of screws. Also, it looks like there is a plate that is removeable as well.

5-speed

dust shield maybe? i dont remember if theyre on the fronts...

DJBOMBERMAN

Yeah there is a dust shield. I took a picture of the rotor, I will try and upload the pic. I know that the 4 bolts that hold the plate on I see does not connect. There is a LARGE bolt in the middle that looks like it holds the rotor on but it looks like you are not suppose to remove it. Has ANYONE replaced the front rotors on a 97 CL 3.0? I called the dealership and surprisingly they were very helpful. Hopefully out of this whole experience I will be able to post a DIY guide with pics and a helpful repair manual pages as well.

Unfortunately I received the wrong brake pad for the front, so I am kind of at a stand still till I receive the correct one. Man, I finally got the bolts off the caliper, with the help of a breaker bar. So right now I guess I can replace the front rotors and rear rotors and brakes. I will take pics of everything and piece together a DIY. Funny, I had no clue on this, but now I am learning and as soon as I get it done I will post what I learned. Thanks everyone!

Jstoumba

no no on the front they compress on the rear they twist in and out....

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

I'm pretty sure they twist too