scratch that...
16x7 45mm

What's the biggest tire I could put on that without rubbing?

 

screw it

 

Well I don't have a question. ok can two swallows carry a coconut in tandem by a string?
African Swallows of course.

So I did my sway bar end links last week. Amazingly easy, took an hour and a half to do both sides. Car does handling much firmer, tighter.. Not bad for $15.

Now ball joints, saved the worst for last.

I do have a question then, any tips on doing those?

 

i do.. looks hot on a black cl... dunno bout any other color...

i say no to led.

 

Question: Does a 3.0 catalytic converter fit on a 2.3? I'm guessing it should, but would like more afirmation

 

The piping is larger on the 3.0 cat, therefore the flanges may not bolt up correctly

 

18x8 +38 front
18x9 +38 rear
any input guys? just trying get an idea of how these are gonna line up with the fenders and all, i think i have a pretty good idea, but i haven't test fitted much on the cl
also other important info, slammed on ksports, no camber kit about -2 to -3 degrees of camber all around, probably willing to cut a little bit of rear fender if needed
i guess at this point i just don't know how everything is going to line up, as i haven't had the chance to put anything wider on stock to drive on, and check things, just done simple mock-ups with the car in the air and all
and the kind of wheels....something JDM...no other hints

 

it fit no problem. your gonna want a mild stretch for clearance, but should be fine.

 

^fender clearance or inner (suspension component) clearance? or both?
and by mild stretch, you mean 225's on the 9" wide? and probably 215 on the 8"?
just wanna get a rough idea, gonna paypal money soon
i was hoping to run 235's on the 9 wide, but i dunno if it's gonna be possible, i might just wait till i get them too...but that might be a while
i did test fit some wisers on the rear, 8.5" wide with 235's and i really liked the way they looked, not stretched at all really

 

one of my HIDs isnt lighting up. it went out last night, then it came back on, and it didnt light up this morning. there was no pink or anything, and the ballast isnt making the high-pitched hum, so im guessing its the ballast? or is it something else? i checked all the connections

 

What kind of HID setup are you using?
If all the connections are secure, and your ballast isn't humming as it normally does, I'd say yes, your ballast is dead.
If you swap the bulbs and both light up on the other side, the you know the bulbs are fine.
If you swap the ballasts and the problem follows one ballast, you know it's probably not a connection issue.

 

its the 6000k kit from HIDextra. and i swapped the ballasts and the the ballast is definitely dead cuz both bulbs lit up.

 

Sound like the ballast for sure

 

question regarding front/rear 3.0 rotors. i upgraded mine, the used ones are still in decent shape alot of material left, no warping. i was wondering if any hondas can use these rotors

that way i can sell them to a larger group, no many CL's around in toronto

 

Prelude lower ball joint replacement:

http://www.jdmpowerhouse.com/diyballjoints.html

Looking at this and looking at my car, it seems like it should translate pretty easily. I like this guide as opposed to either manual I have, because with this method, I don't have to bother with separating the hub unit or removing the knuckle or any of that crap.
Does anyone see anything I'm missing that will make this too different to work?
Also, how does one remove the wheel bearing cover? It looks like it could just pop out, but I have no experience with it.

I have a few things to do and I'd like to get everything knocked out at once, and I'm hoping that can be tomorrow. So any insight would be appreciated asap!

 

well, I pulled a stupid, I've still yet to fix my sqeaks in my from drivers side suspension. Changed the sway bar links, changed the axels, and last night I decided to change the strut. However Acura must have torqued down the fork bolt to the point that it would not come off.

So like an idiot I cut it off and then realized it's a splined bolt. I really hope my acura or honda dealer has it. My cars up on a block and I'm driving wifey's car. Plan now is to check with them and if they don't have it, I'll buy a 9.8 rated bolt for the the time being at home depot.

Not really a question more like a rant, I worked the last 3 days, got home at midnight last night and started working on it, was at it till 5am, then up again at 9 am stopped looking for a replacement at 1pm and now I'm back to work till midnight. fun fun. Gotta love everything including home depot being closed on easter but I'm working.

on another note, the strut was in fact blown, like basically completely worless so I hope it was the noise.

 

i was on my way to my family's house in south carolina for easter, and my tire (only 3 months old) blew out in the middle of bumfucknowhere, north carolina. i had to ride on a donut for almost 4 hours, going painfully slow, til i could get a new tire.

my question is does a full size tire+rim fit in the spare area? i would have checked but my trunk was full. i do a lot of long distance driving and i dont want to have to ride on a donut for an extended period of time, esp on the interstate.

 

No a full size rim/tire doesn't fit back there, at least not a stock 16 with thick tire, I've tried

 

ah poop. oh well, thanks.

 

I had a tranny swap with after market fly wheel and pressure plate. I heard there was a master cylindar with a larger diameter that would fit our vehicle, anyone know about this?

 

So for no apparent reason I now have quad high beams. I can't imagine this happening spontaneously to be a good thing, any real ideas?

 

quad high beams? like when you flash them?

 

Has anyone heard of JVT headers?
Here's a picture of them

 

I saw that jfkhan guy or whatever his name was bought them, but I don't think he ever posted about them after that.
The inlet is slightly bigger than the ebay ones I've seen, I've read good/neutral things about them on other sites, and the price is right.

 

Try em out and let us know how it goes then, why not? What's the price of em?

 

I've heard of em, looked into them but I already had SS autochromes

 

do i have to change my ignition system to run CL-S heads on my 3.0? i'm starting to use oil quite a bit more than before. like i hit 9000km's since my last oil change and the VTEC wasn't engaging cause i was that low. I think it's safe to assume its the valve seals as i'm about to roll over 350,000kms. so i was thinking if i picked up a set of heads somewhere i could redo the seals myself and the just have my mechanic swap the heads, cuts down on the labour i would think.

so yeah...

 

If I remember correctly, we 3.0s need the downpipe bent a little to use the j30 accord headers. These are like $120-150. I don't really want to go through buying them and getting them bent just to find out they are crap. Plus, the consensus here seems to be that headers aren't really worth any gains unless you get some uber expensive ones. I would be more likely to just buy them if there was no bending needed, and if it would actually benefit me in some way beyond having shiny new metal under the hood. Would heat wrap make a difference? I've heard it will add some gains by keeping everything cool, heard it will cause your shit to become brittle and break faster because it is holding in all the heat, and I've heard it won't really make a difference unless you are boosted.
So much shit I have no clue about

 

those ones probly don't need to be bent, it has a flex piece in the middle.

 

jvt = ebay

 

Soo i have some 194 5led wedge lights for my headlight corners. I read some posts that said some people used leds in the headlights and blew fuses? I just want to know which fuses could possibly blow so that if it happens I know which to check. I have no experience with LEDs so anyone that has them in the corners chime in

 

I actually blew the fuse that the corners are on last night (no LED's and I'm not sure why the fuse blew either). It's a 15A fuse under the hood. The label is "Small Light" or something like that. The corner lights and instrument cluster all run off that 1 fuse. IIRC, it's the 2nd 15A fuse from the back in the 2nd line from the driver's side.

 

Thank you!! exactly what i wanted to know. I dont have too much experience with lighting mods/upgrades.

 

i didnt want to start a new thread and i didnt know where to post this for all first genners to see...

anyway. back in NJ at miccici's auto body on rt73 berlin NJ there is a smashed up 97 CL, dark green. In it is a perfectly good gauge cluster, clock thing that surrounds the radio, ashtray, the bottom piece of the dashboard under the steering wheel, 1 tail light, a red AEM CAI, the steering wheel sans airbag and various interior panels.

anyway if you want any of this stuff PM me and I can get it for you.

 

but pretty much all the exterior panels are destroyed.

also, theres a spare tire.

 

2.2 or 3.0?

 

3.0. if it were a 2.2, id take the intake for myself.

 

I have looked and looked at both dashes between the 97 and the 98/99 and can someone please tell me what the big difference is between the two? Is it just the wood grain and ashtray thats different

 

the whole radio bezel thing is different, the buttons for the clock are under it in the 98/99 (vs next to it in the 97...right?) and yes, the 98/99 has more woodgrain and the ashtray/cig lighter is different.

 

I reply 8 years later.. forgot my post...

Yeah quad beams when I flip on my high beams. I still havent' looked into it, but they're bright as hell.