I ordered these little guys

and some 3000k HIDs for them from Hidextra

I am going to spray the white part black. I think that black and chrome will look good with my projector retro, although these are so small that you may not even notice. Hard to tell without having them in-hand and putting them on the car. Everything should come in pretty soon, so I should have some nice new pictures in no time

 

fog lights? link?

 

Nice shnee, those look a lot like the projector fogs that I bought, only mine are black. Can't wait to see them mounted under your retro

I still need a new bumper before I can put mine on

 

They are universal. Ordered them from ijdmtoy.com. I haven't heard great things about those guys, although I know a lot of people order from them. I figure they are not manufacturing the projos, and they are made of glass and metal, so they can't really mess that up. They have a cutoff shield and everything, so I should be able to run the HIDs in there without blinding anyone. I will be putting some silicone where the housings mate up with themselves to make sure they don't get water in there and whackify everything. I can't really guess what else could go wrong.

If you are scrapping your old bumper (assuming you have one), this may be an interesting idea to try out. (If it doesn't go well, no harm done!):
It would be badass to get some bi-xenon projos, mount them actually in the bumper (maybe under the turn signals like davzilla), then you could use them as driving lights or fog lights with the flick of a switch!
The quality of the projector would be better, and you would get dual use out of it. If I had the time and money I would love to try that. The thing about a bi-xenon is that it most likely won't be self-enclosed, so you would need to mount it actually in the bumper (or I guess you could try to fab something up and put it outside if you had the means to do so).

 

If my bumper was salvageable I might try it, but it's toast

 

is a rack and pinion easy or difficult to replace? my friend wants to do it on his legend but he doesnt even know what it is...

 

if im not mistaken, the rack and pinion sits behind the motor near the firewall? requiring you to replace from under the car using a ramp/lift

 

yeah, i researched it and it doesnt look that hard to do. only hard part is trying to maneuver it out and put the new one in.

 

ATTN PEOPLE WITH FOG LIGHTS
Could someone take a picture of the back of the plug that goes into the fog button, showing what wires go where into that plug?

 

Anyone have a height of the inside of our headlamps? Thinking of trying something, but not sure if they'll fit or not...

 

Height from where to where? Mine aren't opened up but I have a free set, and I'm pretty familiar with the space in there right now.

 

I can measure if you want

 

I'm looking for the maximum height that will still fit between the seal of the headlamp. Also, I need to know if there's a certain width for which we have a given height. So not like a max height at 1 point, but over an area of at least 3". I don't care where it's at in the headlamp, just need the max height for any 3" wide space.

Also, if you could get the maximum height over a 5" width too, that would be great.

 

so after 3 hours of trying to get my car out from the snow, it now shakes. its not bad up to 50mph, but anything above 50 is really bad. i had to use the freeway this morning to get home, and at 65mph the thing was shaking really, really violently. it doesnt pull to any direction, so are the wheels unbalanced, or is an alignment issue? thanks

 

Make sure there is no snow/ice stuck inside your wheel. The snow will pile up inside the bottom of the wheel when it's snowing, and it sticks there pretty good. You would think it would fling off on the road, but it doesn't. So you're literally driving around with a big weight on your wheel. Sometimes I think I get it all, but yup, as soon as I hit 50 or so, it starts shaking. Just gotta pull off and clear that shit out of there.

 

ill check that out, if its not that, what else could it be?

 

Most likely it is that your wheels are out of balance. Check to see if snow is in the wheels then check to make sure any balance weights havent fallen out while removing the snow. I keep a record of the approximate location of all balance weights for quick ref when any vibrations come up. Another problem could be a bent wheel, or a tire with broken belts creating high and low spots (replace asap).

good luck

 

yeah, it was the snow in the tires. went on the freeway again this afternoon and it was fine. never had that happen before.

 

question: anyone run 205-60-16 tires on their stock rims? if so whats the diff? bigger sidewall?

 

yeah the sidewalls are taller. if you are lowered, then you'll rub in the back when going over dips and such.

 

Thanksss..thats what i was thinking but i wasnt sure.

 

ok, just got an estimate from Honda for a timing belt and axles. They want $899 for the timing belt, oil seals, belt tensioner, and water pump. and $350 per axle. Now the axles don't really shock me but 900 for a full timing belt job is a bit steep. I was told I could get a 100 coupon online but seriously?

Is this on par with average? It's been a while since I had one changed, last time it was 600 at a Honda dealership for my Accord. By the way this place charges 105/hr, the same as their sister Acura dealership. Not really sure what to do.

 

Yep, that price is right for stealerships

 

Ok I might just have them do the 899 job and have somebody else do the axles and the rest. I just dont want to f around with the timing belt

 

how much did they charge you for the aftermarket one? your new one?

 

does anyone know what type of strut bar that would fit a 99 2.3 cl?

 

Look here for questions like this

https://acurazine.com/forums/1g-cl-1997-1999-56/%2A%2A%2Anoob-guide-read-first-before-posting%2A%2A%2A-478508/

94-97 accord strut bars

 

Anyone with an extra set of headlights wanna take these measurements for me?

 

I'm at home today Matt, I'll do it this afternoon

 

Cool, thanks Chris. I have some ideas that you and 2 other people on here know about...

 

OK here's the heights for inside the headlight, the reflector at it's highest point is 4" in the middle of the lowbeam area, the highbeam is 3.5" tall in the very center but is sloping down heading away from the lowbeam toward the hood. The height of the chrome housing that people paint black is 3.75" so you will need something under that to be able to clear into the front of the headlight including bezels, oh and 3" across is doable in both high and low beam as long as you're under 3.5" i'd say. Let me know if you need any other measurements, I have the extra housing sitting on my dining room table at the moment.

 

What do you mean by this statement: "in the very center but is sloping down heading away from the lowbeam toward the hood".

Also, can I get the distance from the back of each reflector to the front of the clear plastic front of the housing?

Other than that, those dimensions are exactly what I need. Not as much space as I'd like, but I'll live.

 

Meaning that the high beam is right at 4" above the bulb hole at the very center of the highbeam side of the reflector but the height starts going down beyond that, as in under 4" in a downward slope

 

Are you talking about the downward curvature of the headlight housing itself? I assume that's what you're refering to here, but just want to make sure. And thanks for the explanation.

 

I paid about 300 installed for an aftermarket one but i also had my fuel filter changed, new plugs and wires at the same time, so the converter and install were about $180?.. The code kept coming back with that converter so im just running a o2 sensor extension(spark plug defouler) so it pulls the sensor further out of the exhaust stream. That did the trick and the code is gone. I know that the cat is doing its job but the ecu seems to only recognize a very tight emissions range.

 

Yes, they slpe down with the hood like this \ /

 

Thanks Chris. Did you or can you get a straight forward distance from the area where ever the front of the housing makes contact with that horizontal line?

Like this:
____
/___|
/____|

The middle line in that pic. There the sloping down line is the front of the headlamp housing, and the vertical line in the back is where the headlight bulb would mount.

 

did you have to buy the aftermarket converter yourself? if so, where, cause i need to change mine so it can pass smog in a couple months. what does the 02 sensor extension actually do?

 

I have a 99 2.3 cl. It has run 111,000 miles. I bought it as a used lemon but I also bought mechanical coverage insurance and they changed the $3200 transmission for $100 deductible. I bought it at 78,000 miles. I still have coverage for 12,000 miles more. I am at a cross road where I need to know from your experience if this car can go on for another 25,000 -30,000 miles without giving me a major headache. I cannot handle the financial pain that it seems capable of causing me. I do not miss any services or oil changes and keep the car in prime shape.

 

I just had mine ordered from a shop, Im not even sure what brand it is. Im in NJ tho and emissions arent as strict as Cali so im not sure if this would work for you. The o2 sensor extension is literally just a spacer that is screwed into your catalytic converter and then the o2 sensor is screwed into the extension. The only purpose it serves is to pull the sensor further out of the exhaust stream, so it will detect less HCOs or whatever is measured in the exhaust. When it detects less it thinks it is working fine so you have no check engine light. maybe some of the people from cali can chime in and post what kind of converter theyre running or had on their cl