trust me when it comes to parts not being on the car, im in the same boat lol. I have a ton of stuff i need to install on my CL, i gotta go get it out the stupid shop that has it and go to work on it myself since they're incompetent idiots.

 

Converted from a 97 map light to a 99 homelink maplight so I can get rid of my garage door opener. I plan to paint it satin black to match the rest of the interior at some point, but it's good for now, and it's fully functional. To convert the 97's to this you have to trim a nice chunk of the headliner you can see the pics with the before and after. Props go to onwheel01 for writing the diy and also selling me this homelink. Also, you have to splice the wire for the homelink into the wire for the lights. I've had these pics for a while, but couldn't get the new bracket lined up with the short screws that i was trying to use from the 97 map light, anyway, here's the pics from start to finish.

Here's the 97 map light


The 9 LED festoon bulbs I was using.


The package from Bryan (onwheel01) you can see the bracket that I had to make fit in the headliner


Side by side comparison, you can see the size difference, and also the difference in bulbs (festoon vs. wedge)


Back side by side with the new larger bracket shown


Back side by side


Removing the old bracket and light


Getting the wire harness ready


The headliner and wire harness before picture


The headliner and wire harness after picture




New homelink map light installed


5 LED wide angle LED bulb vs regular 5 LED wedge bulb


After finding longer screws, and removing the inner trim to the sunroof, got the bracket lined up and screwed in.


Finished product with 2 Wide angle LED bulbs


Thanks for looking, 1 thing crossed off the list

 

So as many know, my audio setup has been a constantly evolving setup. I have all audiobahn competition speakers that took a LOT of work to get to fit in the CL due to the size of the magnets. I have threads on here about that process but the pics don't work. I will be starting another audio thread once I get farther beyond this, but I laid the groundwork last night to move all my interior speakers to my 800W Eclipse 4 Channel Highs amp. A year or 2 ago I had Mat (mcajka on here) help me run 12 guage speaker wire through my doors and back to the trunk for the door speakers. Last night my buddy and I chopped up those wires and wired them in to the Audiobahn crossovers that came with the matched components. All the wires are now run and ready to be hooked up, once I hookup the power to the amp.

Here's a pic when I mounted the highs amp to the speaker box with my Hifonics Brutus sub amp.


Here's the wire, mcajka and I had pulled the sheath way back while trying to fish the wires through the doors, so I went ahead and put some wire sheath on the wires to shield them and protect them.


Here's the sheath being installed


Here it is all cleaned up and run


Here's one of the crossovers, as you can see they're big bitches and were pretty hard to conceal


Pulled the Audiobahn 1" dome tweeters out so that i could run new speaker wire down through the dash, here you can see how I have them hooked up to the stock wiring currently


Since I wasn't wiring everything to the amp just yet, I just zip tied the new wires to the existing wires so they'd be easy to access and already run and hooked into the crossovers.


Here's the driver's side crossover all hooked up, I cleaned up the wire runs a bit after this pic


Here's the driver side crossover ziptied up above the fuse box and relays totally out of the way up behind the dash


Next step will be to hook up the other cap for my highs amp, and wire up all the power for the amp as well as a remote trigger relay to trigger both amps and the audiobahn crossover that will be added later. I will wire up the highs amp completely first, and then install my new pioneer double din. Then once I'm happy with everything, I'll hook the main crossover up last. Thanks for looking

 

so those map lights really bright? I've been wanting to change mine to white LED, but need them to be really bright still.

btw, nice rip in your seat, looks just like mine.

 

Chris, I gotta ask what kind of additional crossover you're talking about wiring up. Because you already have passive crossovers on the mids/tweets, and the only other type of crossover would be an electronic active crossover, which would take the place of the passive crossovers that you just put so much work into installing. At that point, you would also want to remove the rear speakers, or run very small amounts of power to them, since the active crossover would be more geared for SQ, where you don't want rear fill. So, I'm confused...

Care to explain the additional crossover deal?

Oh, and the Homelink looks good.

 

The map lights are pertty bright, it's actually a step down from the 9 LED festoons though, but I couldn't find anyway to move the 97 sockets over since the setup is totally different. If you want really bright map lights, get SMD's, that's what I put in my 4Runner, even the cool whites are bright as hell.
Before


After




Thanks man, if you come to the meet we can talk about it more since I hope to pick your brain a little bit. It's an electronic crossover, and I'm still undecided if I'm going to use it a but, just thought it may be a nice addition to clean up the sound. But I definitely don't want to lose the rear speakers, it appears to have high, mid and low outputs on it for the amps but I haven't really dug deep into it. The crossovers I wired up front really are nothing more than bass blockers for the tweeters, but I'm still not sure if I'm gonna use the x-over or not

 

Alright, I know effectively what you have, and what you're currently using. Yes, the current passive crossovers are basically bass blockers on the tweeters, but they also filter higher frequencies away from the mids as well. The problem with passive crossovers is that the crossover points and slopes are fixed, for a given driver. If you change the driver that you're using with the passive crossover, the points and slopes can change. With an active (electronic) crossover, you can change the slopes and crossover points, but you also need more channels of amplification. For the crossover you have, you need 6 channels of amplification. And this only covers your front speakers. Depending on input/output sets for your crossover and head unit, you could potentially add another amp for your rear speakers that you could turn up and down (or completely off) assuming your amp had something like Sundown amp's remote gain knob, which is a gain cut, rather than a bass boost like most amps. Then a simple switch on the remote line and you could cut them completely off if you wanted to (I highly suggest this). But anyway, that crossover sounds like a 3 way crossover, which means it'll have outputs for highs (tweeters), mid (mids) and low (subs) outputs. So, the highs output would go to the front input on your 4 channel amp, the mid output on the crossover would go to the rear channels on your amp, and the low output would go to your sub amp. You will want to be sure to have all other filters (both amp and hu) turned off, so that they don't interfere with the crossover's settings. I can explain it more in detail at the meet, but that's the basics of it...

As for talking audio at the meet, hell yeah. I'm always game to talk audio with people. It's something that I feel I know a bit about and am always willing to help out.

 

This project was actually done a few weeks ago so that I could get the car back on the road. The screws holding the license plate in were so rusted that they fused to the brackets that they were screwed into. I tried several things to get these to break loose, and finally ended up snapping the brackets out with the screws still attached, they never came loose.

Here you can see the whole bracket still attached, and even pieces of my bumper inside the brackets






So I had to use a dremel with a diamond cutting wheel to cut the screws in half and get the plate frame, and plate and brackets apart.

Here's the old rusty plate frame vs the new plate fram that I replaced it with. You can see the heads of the screws that had to be cut out


Got new plate screw brackets from the dealer for like 6 bucks a piece, and luckily was able to get them to mount to the bumper without having to fiberglass anything, though I still plan to gorilla glue them at some point.


While I had the plate off, the detailer in me came out and I wanted to test a new product that I got from the W&W forum.

Before


Applied


After, not sure why this pic looks hazy, but it was clean and shiny when I put the plate on.


Finished product, used black plastic plate screws and black screw covers to avoid rust in the future

 

plastic license plate screws ftw. definitely a good investment

 

Thanks man, I'm definitely pleased that I won't have to snap rusty screws off again, I still have to deal with my 4runner's rusty screws

 

Planning to install a backup camera with my new headunit, hopefully the plastic screws will work for that

 

Can't wait to see this done.

not my actual block, but almost exactly what mine looks like

 

 

is more like it

 

Car's at the shop for inspection right now, rims go on tomorrow, double din radio and highs amp get hooked up tonight

And yeah, good call Matt

 

I'm hoping to do the same. Well, more afternoon than night, but yeah. Box will hopefully be cut/built tonight so I'm just waiting on subs to get here. I still need to find my distro before I do anything though

And yeah, I felt that was a bit more realistic.

 

Matt doesn't know it yet, but he's gonna help me tweak my amps

 

I figured there was going to be something like that going on It's all good. I'll help out how I can. Please don't make me crawl all through the car to get to the amps if possible. I did enough of that with my car, and I'd rather not do it again

 

Nope, they're right on top, and easy to access

 

Finally. I'm used to doing some crazy stuff to adjust amps. Hell, with the 2 AQ 2200's, I had to take pics of the side of the amp every time I turned a knob to see where it was. I couldn't get my head in to look at the side of the amp, but I could get my camera so that worked as my eyes. That was not a good time, and I don't wish/suggest that on/to anyone ever again. Same type of deal with my buddy's Saturn and mounting his ~65lb amp. I had my hand sitting between the buss bars connecting 2 XS Power D3100's. If my hand or the screwdriver sitting next to it would've made contact, that would've been ~10,000 amps of current discharged. Good thing I only had to sit there for about an hour with that amp on top of my hand

 

Yeah, that's why I'm hessitant about doing my fiberglass project, because the amp rack is supposed to go in the back middle of the trunk as far from reach as you can get in the trunk

 

Just pull the backseats and load/tune them from the cabin... That's what I'd do, personally. But we can talk about it more next weekend. Bring pencil/paper/sketches or whatever and we can work through it. I'm sure we'll be able to figure something out

 

So a while back I had made all the preperations to install my NRG Upper strut brace, but never bothered because I wanted to paint or powdercoat the mounts, but I said F it and installed it because all I had to do was get it under the fuse box and bolt it to my pillowmounts. Here's a couple pics of it all installed.





Mounted to the Tein SS-P's, they actually match the pillowmounts pretty well. Matches my hood and headlights pretty well too

 

Well im goin back to stock with audio and sellin off everything I have.

Since I modded my rear deck to have a pressure fit ported deck for more db's I have to remod it to get 6x9's in there.

So I am making baffles out of mdf to fit them, and bolt them up. More pics when progress goes on. I currently need to find 2 used bose 6x9's as I damaged mine. I had thought of taking out the rear deck and selling it but figured all the time that went into making it no way lol.

 

All finished up, my 6x9's actually still work but ones is pretty damaged, sounds better than I remember, but we shall see. I may eventually throw a sub and amp in just for a little something, but will just run a loc. Doesnt look to bad but hell to see it you have to look up into the trunk. And I'll never sell this car n e wayz.

 

 

heyheyhey, i'm new hurrrr

um i'm on hondatech and stanceworks, and the come up of course,

i've been a honda head forever, worked for ford for ten years, when i left first thing i did was shop for a honda,

ended up getting a cl as it's not seen much and just about everything else is played out

so i got a 3.0 cl , a 2.2 parts car,
re-doing the interior in black, had speakers they got stolen,
18x7.5 tenzo r turismo 2's
going to do satin black with the shark mouth from fighter planes,
tein basics
and some other ish, rsx seats

pics later

 

We spoke on SW. Glad you made your way over here.

 

Satin Black will look great, idk bout the shark mouth though, where would u position it?

 

^bet you it's gonna be where Rusty's was
Rusty btw is that insane, all rusted bmw, that is now bagged and swapped, and is one of the only reason i joined on stanceworks forums, so sick
pic for reference


next project for me is getting those ambers replaced.
and then a hunt for some wheels soon, this will be good.
oh and rustproofing/undercoating before winter as i think the cl is gonna see daily driver duties in the snow this year, and i need to coat all the metal places i've scraped/rubbed for the last 2 years.

 

starting my new CL project shortly. here is a stock pic to start the process.

 

^plans?

 

coilovers of the D2 or FFtype1 variety and some sirius radio

 

do you still have your Integra and S2000? is the CL just gonna be a daily driver?

 

integra was stolen reason i'm getting the CL. I still have my S2000 and TSX. you onFB?

 

wow was it really?

now it makes sense. thats why that little bastard simmerman said that.

yup. matthew t. boehler

 

hate simmerman! yeah CL is my new daily/project

 

I recently got a new iPod, which means I've been using my old ipod adapter to listen to it in the car. I guess the son of a bitch is heavy, because it sort of broke the cig lighter and now its loose. Electrically it works, but it is loose, and the damn adapter wont stay in place. Needless to say, its pretty annoying.

So I took apart the interior for the 230th time to try to fix it. I can't figure it out. Has anyone had this problem that can help me fix it? It would be greatly appreciated.

It looks like there are no screws or anything keeping it in place.


The black part surrounding the lighter is loose as well

 

New box build, which means new subs... Anyway, hopefully this one will be more permanent than the last several, but we'll see. Couple 10s ported through the ski pass in one of the few enclosure types I haven't built yet, a 6th order bandpass. Will have a bolted on acrylic back panel, so it should be pretty showy. Eventually, I'll probably do some kind of etching or something in the acrylic with some sort of Team Concepts logo or something and light it up. Should be very interesting.

Anyway, pics of the design:

 

can't wait to see this build Matt, gonna be epic